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If I can't use a drill chuck on the headstock what am I supposed to use to hold the collet? Trying to be safe but can only find so much info on how to use the collet. I am not sure how you use the threaded bottle stop mandrel able to clarify?
 

Graydog

Biblical Innards
Are you asking about after you drill the hole on how to hold it ?
 

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The piece the ix collet is inserted into. The tapered part. That's what I'm looking for and don't know what it is called
 
The piece the ix collet is inserted into. The tapered part. That's what I'm looking for and don't know what it is called

There are different types of collets, that’s a MT2 collet that graydog showed. I use the same collet chuck I showed earlier in this thread, only I use it to hold the threaded mandrel now, but there’s a collet that fits my IX collets. The collets that go in the chuck are ER32 collets. If you use a MT2 collet you should still get a drawbar, it will prevent the collet from coming out when the lathe is spinning. I’ve seen videos where a drawbar isn’t used, but for about $20 it’s worth the safety it provides.
 
Is the drawbar on the MT2 collet what tightens the ix collet? I'm fine with using a drawbar I'm just trying to wrap my head around everything. I ordered the MT2 collet it should arrive tomorrow. Just want to be safe
 
Yes, the MT2 collet goes in the spindle, the drawbar goes in the opposite side of the headstock through the spindle and threads into the MT2 collet. Tightening it will both close the MT2 collet around the IX collet by pulling it into the spindle and keep the MT2 collet from coming out while the lathe is spinning.
 
No worries, we all have to learn. While there’s no substitute for hands on training, for safety’s sake watch as many YT videos as you can. Mike Peace, Sam Angelo, Brian Havens, WoodturnerKy and a few others have some excellent videos on everything from proper technique to projects for beginners to build their skills with.

Here’s a video that shows how to make and use a drawbar if you want to save some money instead of buying one:

 
Gosh thats some good looking wood GD.

I do this also.

My next purchase will be a Nova mini spigot jaw set. I'd suggest these as expanding grip for unsupported turning.

I’ve used my mini-jaws before but didn’t care for them. The wood is thin at the cup and it’s real easy to split it when expanding the jaws. There’s a fine line between a secure enough grip to keep the handle from flying off and splitting the cup. The real problem is they’re dovetailed. Unless you dovetail the inside of the cup, which doesn’t make much sense to me, you don’t get a very good grip. You can dovetail the cup, but it has to be thicker to make up for it which doesn’t look as good to me.
 
I’ve used my mini-jaws before but didn’t care for them. The wood is thin at the cup and it’s real easy to split it when expanding the jaws. There’s a fine line between a secure enough grip to keep the handle from flying off and splitting the cup. The real problem is they’re dovetailed. Unless you dovetail the inside of the cup, which doesn’t make much sense to me, you don’t get a very good grip. You can dovetail the cup, but it has to be thicker to make up for it which doesn’t look as good to me.

I have the shorter version jaws and this is exactly what's happening to a lot of my brushes. The jaws I use grip with about 8mm and I regularly lose heads to splitting if I get a catch. It's rather frustrating.

I was hoping the mini spigot set would solve this. What would you suggest instead? An expanding collet?
 
@Fat Larry I believe the IX expanding collet is the best for clear handles and a wine stopper mandrel for all others from what I gathered is the best
 
I’ve used my mini-jaws before but didn’t care for them. The wood is thin at the cup and it’s real easy to split it when expanding the jaws. There’s a fine line between a secure enough grip to keep the handle from flying off and splitting the cup. The real problem is they’re dovetailed. Unless you dovetail the inside of the cup, which doesn’t make much sense to me, you don’t get a very good grip. You can dovetail the cup, but it has to be thicker to make up for it which doesn’t look as good to me.

Do you know of a jaw set that isn't dovetailed? IE: would distribute its force evenly along it's length as a collet does?

I guess it might be possible to modify one.
 
@Fat Larry I believe the IX expanding collet is the best for clear handles and a wine stopper mandrel for all others from what I gathered is the best

That’s my preference. As they say, YMMV, but I’ve made a bunch of handles using different methods and the bottle stopper mandrel is far and away the best for me. And yes, the drawbar/collet set up looks great!

Do you know of a jaw set that isn't dovetailed? IE: would distribute its force evenly along it's length as a collet does?

I guess it might be possible to modify one.

I haven’t found any jaws that aren’t dovetailed on the outside. As for modifying them, it could be outright dangerous. The reason the jaws are numbered is because they’re cut from a single billet and balanced to be used in the proper number sequence. At the very least grinding the dovetail off would make them unbalanced. For about $10 more than a set of jaws you can get either an IX collet or self tapping mandrel and a collet/drawbar and not worry about splitting any more handles. And I guarantee one will never fly off the lathe if it’s threaded onto a mandrel and properly held by a collet. I’ve had it happen with mini jaws and even a couple times with an IX collet.
 
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