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If I made these, would anyone buy 'em?

Good stuff.

Cerium Oxide is not per se finer than chromium oxide.
Like Cr2O3, Ce02 is a crystal that is available in any size.
You will have to watch out (just like with chromium oxide) if it is fine enough for our purpose.
It is easily available from nanoscale to 300 mesh.

I will tell you a little something about CeO2.
Cerium is a so called rare earth element and chemically spoken it belongs to the lanthanides.
You porbably heard of these in the news.

Ce is the most common element of rare earth ores and has an abundancy of about 60ppm in the upper earth crust.
It is a by-product readily available.

Cerium in its oxide form is often times used as a cheap but highly effective polishing compound,
rivaling and beating diamond containing polishing agents.
It is used as a catalyst in petrolium cracking and in UV-absorbing glasses like the windshield of your car, as well.

What makes cerium oxide so special it can rival almost any industrial polishing compound?

Therefore several polishing theories have to be explained.
Yes, there are several and none of them is considered "proven".
The first and most logic one is the "mechanic" theory.
It describes peaks on every surface that are removed during a fine polishing action leaving a less rough surface. This theory explains these actions with tiny surface "cracks".

The second theory is the "flowing" theory. It describes a plastic flow due to high forces. Surfaces are plastic at micro-level.
this can be illustrated easily: try to bend a 3mm bar of aluminium.
You can´t. Now try to deform a 13µm thick aluminium foil. Now you can!

The third theory is a solely chemically one.
It describes some kind of pickling action.
The surface to be polished is chemically attacked by the abrasive (wich will btw. do actions according to theory 1 and/or 2 as well).
This changes the properties of the surface, as it now consists of a new material. It might change it´s resistance to wear and abrasion, or might be soluable in water.

CeO2 is known to provide such chemical processes.
BUT, and that´s the downside, this works for glass only!
CeO2 is suspected to be able to react with silicon atoms in glass,
creating a surface that is either soluable in water or has a soft consistancy like gel.
Al2O3 and diamond are not known to have such effects.
Combined with usual abrasive action much smoother results can be achieved.

I highly doubt this would work for steel.
And I highly doubt we would have a benefit from it,
as smooth surface and low roughness are incomparable with smooth edges and low roughness of edge!

For metal works, CeO2 is just another polishing agent.
Unfortunately it does not provide as good results in metal polishing as it does in glass polishing,
where it is highly regarded.

BTW. Cerium Oxide does not care if your blade is hardened at 40°, 50° or 65° HRC.
It is also not true that older blades are softer.
It exceeds the hardenes of steel anyways!
 
How do you hollow the inside? Do you just glue some thin pieces together or actually remove wood from the center of a thick board?
 
I'll be looking forward to seeing the second prototype. The first version looks good. I too was wondering about the size of space in the middle and if it was big enough to stick a boxed straight into it.
 
I'll be looking forward to seeing the second prototype. The first version looks good. I too was wondering about the size of space in the middle and if it was big enough to stick a boxed straight into it.
I like the hollow, is it big enough to tuck a razor in?

I just tried this, one of my coffin boxes fits perfectly, the other doesn't. So, a qualified "yes".

How do you hollow the inside? Do you just glue some thin pieces together or actually remove wood from the center of a thick board?
I ripped and glued two thin pieces to the handle. The next version is going to have a Tigerwood handle, and thinner "bridge" pieces for a little more flex.

I haven't had a chance yet to work on V.2, called in to work yesterday and today. I still have the next 4 days off so as soon as I get up the gumption I'll carry on.

BTW, nice post LesLemming re: CeOx. Much more in-depth than the Wiki article I read. (And I do love factoids!)
I also really can't say wether it is effective for me or not... still too new to honing to tell if it's helping or not; I'm still operating under "received wisdom" mode.
 
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OK! Took a little longer than I thought... but the first two are ready to hit BST.

These ones are done with Tigerwood for the handle and spacer, maple bridges, ebony wedges, Latigo Leather (un-pasted) and 6 coats of industrial laquer.

One is larger than the other due to a chip that happened on the Table saw.
One is 2 1/2"x10" and the other is 3"x10". The 3" one is crazy huge!

I'm proud of these ones!
 

Tony Miller

Speaking of horse butts…
My vote still stands that this looks like a great product at a very fair price. I think the smaller, travel strop direction would be where I would head for now as this is not quality made travel strop out there. I would offer it unpasted and let the buyers add paste if they wanted. For travel use I really don't think it is needed..............how long is one really traveling anyway now days, a week typically and I can easily go a few weeks without needed anything more than a plain strop.

Great product!

Tony
 
Thanks Tony.
What dimensions would you recommend for a travel strop?
What exactly is a travel strop? I mean, aside from the obvious.
What features define a travel strop? NTS I'm far too noobie to have traveled with my str8's, and I don't travel much anyways. If it was road trip type travel, I'd have a truck and all the room I want, if it was air, I'd probably just take a DE, so I'm not sure what would make an ideal travel strop.
I'm open to ideas! These were just a refinement of a process I was pretty sure would work... and still a learning process!


I've got a few ideas stewin'... wonder what the old noggin' can come up with....
 
I actually think that 2" or 2.5" inch widths would best for paddle strops. Easier to store and easier to travel with.
 
I'm a fan of 2 1/2' myself. The 3" is too big for me. Both of these seem like they are as long as a runway!

2"x8" for travel? With a shorter handle?

I'm trying to envision a way to make it fold, or actually be a box to store a straight as well. It would have to be thicker to do that..... hmm...
 
I'd like a 2x10 and pay for more stropping surface than the handle length. If it is 2x10 I would probably use 8" of it because I have a tendency of not going to the edge due to fear of rolling an edge or cutting the strop.


I think these are beautiful by the way.
 
Very nice looking. Having just bought a travel stop myself, I can tell you that you would have had my biz had these been available recently.
 
Hey wdwrx,

Have you still got any of your paddle strops?

...perhaps any plans of making more of them?

Just bought my first straight and I can feel a whole rush of new acquisition disorders on the horizon.

Want to start those AD's with a decent strop!

Let me know,
 
Sorry rabelais99, I made 3 of 'em but haven't had any ambition to make more.... they really are kinda a PITB to make, and of course, there is no way I can mass produce 'em.... much. And I pissed everyone off by over packing them:001_cool: (can you say overkill?)
I'm a carpenter by trade, so working all day and then coming home to work in the shop is a little off-putting, and hard to compete with from a time/$ perspective. I am feeling the need for more hones though..... and money in the PayPal account is money SWMBO doesn't know about..... and I've still got a really nice piece of leather kicking around.... hhhmmmmm
 
OK! Took a little longer than I thought... but the first two are ready to hit BST.

These ones are done with Tigerwood for the handle and spacer, maple bridges, ebony wedges, Latigo Leather (un-pasted) and 6 coats of industrial laquer.

One is larger than the other due to a chip that happened on the Table saw.
One is 2 1/2"x10" and the other is 3"x10". The 3" one is crazy huge!

I'm proud of these ones!

I had one thought/suggestion... in place of the maple bridges, what about using something like thin birch plywood ... this would give it lots of flex yet be very strong and would be very resistant to breaking during travel.

Oh and BTW very nice strop.. if I had the money I would buy one in a heartbeat.
 
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