Custom Low Layer and Twist Damascus razors

Discussion in 'Restoration & Razor Making How-To's.....' started by MileMarker60, Jan 15, 2012.

  1. Here are a couple of razors I got to finish this weekend.
    First is a low layer Damascus I picked up from Mike.
    It's low layer count with a 1086v core. Scales are red G10 with domed washers

    Attached Files:

  2. The next is a twisted Damascus with my take in a Heljestrand. Except with a Spanish
    Scales are blue G10 with stacked washers.

    Attached Files:

  3. Both gorgeous Brian
  4. Wid


    Very nice Brian.
  5. Beautiful work as always.
  6. Very nice!
  7. I got a spot for low layer PW work. WOW.

    That twist is pretty nice looking too.

    Would love to see a feather pattern in a razor. (but I probably can't afford it)

  8. wow. how can you stand to let them go? lol. outstanding.
  9. maxman

    maxman Moderator Emeritus

    Ya know, I wasn't going to click on this thread.
    I didn't want to see another beauty that I couldn't have.
    But I did click on it.

    It was worth the pain!! Beautiful work.
  10. Thanks for the nice words.

    There are some that a difficult but for the most part it's not that hard.
    Alot of time it's other peoples ideas. I just try and make the steel look the same as their idea. That being the case, I'm happy to hand it over to them.
  11. I really like the blue Damascus. The pattern in it is very nice. I am used to seeing them going side to side not top to bottom, so this one really stands out to me.
  12. Wow, nice work! Cool scales too.

    Al raz.
  13. I have currently folded a billet of Damascus to 128 layers ( one too many folds if you ask me). I am going to forgeweld in a peice of a real old file into the cutting edge.

    WHAT I NEED NOW - if any advice I can get on the easiest way to hollow grind the razor.

    I have made several relatively nice damascus steel knives... but grinding a nice bevel is a very hard thing to do w/ limited tools and resources.

    Is there anyone on this forum who offers grinding services? Please let me know! (I would like to do it myself but .... hey ---- ya never know)

  14. What tools have you got to work with? If you have a 8"-10" wheel that would work well enough
    A old file should work. Or just a buy a simple high carbon steel like 1095 and use that as the core.
    A thin piece if 1095 wouldn't set you back much and if your using it as the core.. a 12" piece would last a good
  15. A contact wheel on a belt grinder will get the profile desired, although making some practice blades is advisable. I am not sure the best size to use.

  16. great work brian! i need to get my concept drawing in motion. also want to ear more about suggestions for Jack1knife.
  17. Wow. Thanks everyone for the replies. For turning me on (oooooooo) to this site.... we can thank JEFF **i forget his username*
    As for the steel..... I have PLENTY of old files. Plenty of 1084 + 15N20 for damascus..... and PLENTY of tool steel from various USA made files.

    AS FAR as equipment that I have.....
    Champion Hand-crank Coal Forge (the love of my life ---- dont tell Jessica!)
    Hay Budden 140 Lb anvil (Made in 1910 in sunny Brooklyn, NY --- which is stamped on the side)
    Harbor Freight : Angle Grinder ---- 1X30in belt sander (p.o.s.) and a 90amp flux cored wire welder (AWESOME for 70$ --- excellent for anyone who needs to spit metal at something...)

    AS FAR as grinding razors..... wow.

    Jeff gave me three razors tonight to study as this is my first experience with anything shaving sharp (other than my Mach 3 --- which the same disposable blade has lasted me all though college (4.5yrs hahahahahaha ... yes this is TRUE!)

    YES YES... I knowwwww. Sacrilege. Ha! BUUUT I am very interested in learing all such lost arts.

    #1 --- I know how to machine. I am not a machinist --- I am an engineer *not a geek*
    #2 --- I know how to blacksmith using coal --- forge weld --- and make quality Damascus steel ( learning/thinking about more patterns every day )
    #3 --- I know how to .... nope thats its!

    Back to the matter at hand. HOLLOWGRINDING. Seeing Jeff's razors.... they are only a few thousands thick at their smallest part. If i Know anything... I know that I am not able to reproduce such grinds as is. HELP NEEDED.

    Firstly - because my forging ability is MUCH better than my grinding ability - I would like to find a partener in crime --- Jeff may be this partener.

    I do NOT know how to sharpen a blade to shaving sharpness. This is a MASSIVE weakness of mine. I can make really asthetically pleasing (dull as f) knifes. This must change.
    As for now... there are many many projects that keep my mind active. If you would like a preview of my other interests ... you can visit weaponsguild dot com and have a look

    Appreciate anyone with the patience to read this free-stream dribble - COMMENTS and QUESTIONS and C O L L A B O R A T I O N is most most welcome
    tHANK all for their comments. I
  18. This is the easiest part!

    I recommend you get a couple practice razors (vintage is a good choice, as are Gold Dollar but GD's need correction before they can be properly honed), and set up a quality honing scheme. I use a Naniwa Chosera 1k followed by Belgian Coticule.
    Lapping films are another choice.
    or you can use use a progression on synthetic hones, such as Norton, King, or Sharpton.
    Or you can delve into Japanese naturals (Jnat)
    or you can delve into found stones that have good properties for honing (this thread is a bit of information overload)
    or....or....or..... .... ....

    The point is pick a honing scheme and stick with it until you can produce a quality edge. Belgian Coticule is a one stone deal so it is more economical in a certain sense. A beginner is better off with a hard slower stone because it will more easily give an excellent edge.

    Lapping film on a lapping plate (or piece of polished marble tile from the local big box) is possibly the most economical because you can have a full scheme for about $20. I have not experimented in this area yet.

    The point is you have to do it. Cleaning and "restoring" a vintage blade is a great place to start.

    I haven't gotten to serious blade making, but do enjoy spending some time at my Trenton (168#) made here in Columbus Ohio in 1912.

  19. Oh, and you need to learn to shave with a straight, quality control and all.


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