It took me a couple of hrs on sic for mine but it wasn't killing the sic immediately like some stones seem to.
It's very soft. I used SIC on glass for the grunt work and finished on a DiaFlat. I was a bit disappointed at first because I knew it wouldn't be a razor finisher, but after running a few dozen chisels and knives over it I was really impressed. I wouldn't swap it for a razor grade charn at this point. I think it's 9" long-ish.David yours sounds softer than I thought unless you used a jackhammer. I need to find one of these softer ones to use as a knife stone. How long is that thing. It looks big in the pic.
After playing with this one for sometime. I believe it to be a bizarre Charnwood.
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That's definitely unique, it sounds like you've figured it out. How would you rate it compared to other Charnleys? Is it as fine as the greenish stones with red traces or more for hand tools?
That makes sense. When I lap mine a pink slurry lifts out where the red inclusions are - sort of like the stone is bleeding.The reddish pits are usually softer parts of the stone, sort of an inclusion.
Way back - Neil Miller had one where a chunk of red stuff the size of a an egg yolk just fell out of the stone.
Three Charnley Forests. I cleaned up all three to try with water. The one on the left is a fantastic finisher, I use it to finish after a Welsh stone progression with water. It has sorted out a couple of razors that were always uncomfortable coming off synthetics.
The one in the middle felt terrible with water. Really gritty. Even after I had lapped and burnished it. So I returned it to oil and use it to refresh razors. Now that I have got the hang of the oil mix that it likes - 80:20 Bisley Gun Oil to WD40 it's an incredible stone. Very unforgiving, in the sense that if there is any problem with the bevel or the work done on prior stones it tells you.
I had one stainless Dovo that kept getting scratchy after a couple of shaves. Couldn't see anything wrong under 60x magnification, but as soon as I put the razor on this stone I felt extra resistance near the heal on one side. Worked on it with this stone and now the razor keeps a great edge.
The stone on the right was purchased as a Charnley Forest, but it has no inclusions and the colour is different. Whilst it looks similar to the stone in the middle, that's because the central stone has oil on it, and when cleaned up has a similar blue green to the left hand stone.
Regardless of what the right hand stone is, it is very very nice. Definitely as hard and fine. Very consistent surface and as smooth, more so than the other two in some ways and I have got really nice results from it. Maybe slightly harder to use and I feel like I'm just learning my way round it.
Kind of you to say so. Not really experienced, a little bit of luck with the natural stones (long may it continue, touch wood) and I guess I made a LOT of very stupid mistakes on synthetics - if you call that experience. The Charnley Forest stones have been a game changer for me - they have helped me to understand some of the other naturals and to begin to love honing.Those are real beauties. You say you're new to honing but it seems like you've got a great deal of experience in working with stones and figuring out their individual properties.
I've had one failed attempt at a Charnley Forest/Arkansas/Washita mystery stone involving several hours of lapping what turned out to be a badly cracked and fractured stone. I might go back to it someday but at this point I'd rather buy a different Charnley and start from scratch. I've learned more about what qualities to look for. Of course, it's further down my list of must haves, after filling out my Scottish Progression and Welsh Slates.
Three Charnley Forests. I cleaned up all three to try with water. The one on the left is a fantastic finisher, I use it to finish after a Welsh stone progression with water. It has sorted out a couple of razors that were always uncomfortable coming off synthetics.
The one in the middle felt terrible with water. Really gritty. Even after I had lapped and burnished it. So I returned it to oil and use it to refresh razors. Now that I have got the hang of the oil mix that it likes - 80:20 Bisley Gun Oil to WD40 it's an incredible stone. Very unforgiving, in the sense that if there is any problem with the bevel or the work done on prior stones it tells you.
I had one stainless Dovo that kept getting scratchy after a couple of shaves. Couldn't see anything wrong under 60x magnification, but as soon as I put the razor on this stone I felt extra resistance near the heal on one side. Worked on it with this stone and now the razor keeps a great edge.
The stone on the right was purchased as a Charnley Forest, but it has no inclusions and the colour is different. Whilst it looks similar to the stone in the middle, that's because the central stone has oil on it, and when cleaned up has a similar blue green to the left hand stone.
Regardless of what the right hand stone is, it is very very nice. Definitely as hard and fine. Very consistent surface and as smooth, more so than the other two in some ways and I have got really nice results from it. Maybe slightly harder to use and I feel like I'm just learning my way round it.
I was just researching a stone on the bay and came across Fiddish River stones. (or Fiddich?)After playing with this one for sometime. I believe it to be a bizarre Charnwood.
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I was just researching a stone on the bay and came across Fiddish River stones. (or Fiddich?)
The veins remind me of one of those if it were cut along the veins instead of across.
How does it slurry in comparison to a regular Charnley Forest?