What's on your work bench right now?

[Frank Shaves]

@SlimGem, I like the shape of the blades on the Frederick Reynolds frameback razors. To the best of my knowledge, these razors were made with these types of scales (I forget the name) with laminated scales that tend not to hold up over time:

Personally, I like the shape of the scales on the top razor. They look the original scales on my Greaves 7/8 near wedge. The scales on the bottom razor look like scales for a larger For Barber Use (FBU) razor.

 

[SlimGem]

@SlimGem, I like the shape of the blades on the Frederick Reynolds frameback razors. To the best of my knowledge, these razors were made with these types of scales (I forget the name) with laminated scales that tend not to hold up over time:

View attachment 1820597

Personally, I like the shape of the scales on the top razor. They look the original scales on my Greaves 7/8 near wedge. The scales on the bottom razor look like scales for a larger For Barber Use (FBU) razor.

@Frank Shaves Thanks a million. Just the info and confirmation I needed. The more I looked at online pictures, the more I realized both of my FRs have the wrong scales, especially the bottom one. If you don't mind, I will use your picture as a guideline for CAD modeling the proper scales. Maybe natural blond horn scales will look better than black.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Finally remembered. These are called dyed scales. I think there are two layers of horn with dye in between. In pristine condition (which is rare), they look nice. Otherwise, they have this I'm worn out and need to be replaced look - at least to my eyes.

These razors would look great in honey horn, if you can find it - I think.

 

[mr_houston]

I did a light restore on this razor made by or for Onondaga B. S. House. I buffed the blade, touched up the bluing on the tang, did a slight correction to the heal, and polished the inlays.

I just recently got my first greaseless compound at 600 grit. I hit this blade with it to remove some scratches (no pitting). I was so impressed with the satin finish it produced that I stopped and only polished further with Flitz.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yup, 600 is the only greaseless compound I use. I keep 3 wheels in rotation, fully loaded, partially loaded, (used) and very lightly loaded (well used). All three produce different finishes depending on the need.

A lightly loaded 600 wheel will clean up a razor nicely and will polish well when followed with a wheel with just Stainless greased compound.

As the compound wears, I move the wheels up in rotation and fully load the lightly loaded wheel.

Buffing on corners will quickly remove compound, so work those areas last.

Nice work.

 

[SlimGem]

Just a small restoration I did over the weekend.

This is a Degrand née Gurgey Stub Tail Straight Razor from Thiers, Marseille. The blade is 6/8 at the toe and in great condition for being almost two hundred years old. The horn scales had a lot of bug damage and that's all I wanted to replace since I wanted to keep it as original as possible, I mainly did rust removal on the blade with just enough cleaning to preserve the light patina. Cleaning the washers was a bit tricky and maybe I could've done a better job but at least I was able to re-use them, including the original spacer. I opted for wood scales since that is fairly common on stubtails. I opted for cocobolo wood since it has an old look to it and is easy to burnish after every tung oil coat. This is my second stubtail and I can't wait to hone it and put it to use. I just hope I don't go down the stubtail rabbit hole.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

The original hard rubber scales on this Engström were pinned without collars and the pins had pulled through a little so there was no tightening them. I cut new ones out of a clipboard from work. Did most of the shaping with a utility knife used like a card scraper. This acrylic is fairly soft, it scrapes better than it sands. I didn't plan it but the pattern kind of complements the devil spit on the blade.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Waiting for the poly to dry on this set I'm making for an old reground Sheffield blade. Had initially tried to use a resin slab that my wife had poured but it turned out to be a little too pliable when shaved down to the proper dimension. This is the last of a little slab of figured oak that I had lying around. The wedge is almost a spacer, but it is tapered. I found with stiffer woods you have to go a little thicker on the wedge and taper it less or you'll get gaps when you go to pin it up. Probably why the big name manufacturers use chonky spacers on their exotic wood scales.

 

[life2short1971]

If that slab the wife made was recently poured give it a few weeks and check it again.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

If that slab the wife made was recently poured give it a few weeks and check it again.

I will come back to it, but she's been experimenting with different brands and this one seems to be more temperature sensitive than the others. After a few minutes of holding it in my hands it gets flexy. One of the others she poured for me seems more solid.

 

[life2short1971]

I use alumilite clear for brush handles and if I pour thin slabs for scales they stay pliable for quite a while while thicker pours harden right up.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Interesting. The other piece was a thicker pour. Maybe that's why it set better.

 

[life2short1971]

Interesting. The other piece was a thicker pour. Maybe that's why it set better.

Maybe so.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Got it pinned up, will need some time on the stones.