Kind of a bizarre question, but hey that's what keeps it interesting!
So, without further delay. . .
When it comes to sleeve length: I'm a 32.5"
Rather than get custom shirts, I opt for off rack; Brooks Brothers -and my old Hathaway's
- 32/33's have always fit and looked good.
33" sleeves from the same still look and feel good, and when worn, the cuff lays as it should; it hits ~1.5" from the very base of my thumb.
The other day, I ordered a few Gitman Bros. shirts in 33", this being based on well. . . years of wearing 32/33, or, 33 sleeves.
Here's the problem: The cuff hits as it should, about 1" past my wristbone.
However, the sleeves look freakishly bad; its nothing but a mass of wrinkles and sloppy appearance from ~4" above my elbow to ~ 4" below it, LITERALLY JUST AFTER putting on a freshly pressed shirt (they're not non-iron, and somehow the whole damn thing turns into a mess of wrinkles after moving arm for less than one minute). Similarly, just prior to all the wrinkles forming, it still looks like there's just too much fabric in the sleeves, and they present a slightly-more-than-average wavy appearance.
When I 'pull the fabric down' (i.e., place my right hand on left shoulder, then run it down the left arm, to make the left sleeve taut against my arm, with excess fabric running past the top of the cuff) there isn't exactly a lot of fabric running over; maybe 1.25".
So. . . what gives?! (and please, if you can, say more than "opt for a 32, mate.")
Thanks!
So, without further delay. . .
When it comes to sleeve length: I'm a 32.5"
Rather than get custom shirts, I opt for off rack; Brooks Brothers -and my old Hathaway's
- 32/33's have always fit and looked good.33" sleeves from the same still look and feel good, and when worn, the cuff lays as it should; it hits ~1.5" from the very base of my thumb.
The other day, I ordered a few Gitman Bros. shirts in 33", this being based on well. . . years of wearing 32/33, or, 33 sleeves.
Here's the problem: The cuff hits as it should, about 1" past my wristbone.
However, the sleeves look freakishly bad; its nothing but a mass of wrinkles and sloppy appearance from ~4" above my elbow to ~ 4" below it, LITERALLY JUST AFTER putting on a freshly pressed shirt (they're not non-iron, and somehow the whole damn thing turns into a mess of wrinkles after moving arm for less than one minute). Similarly, just prior to all the wrinkles forming, it still looks like there's just too much fabric in the sleeves, and they present a slightly-more-than-average wavy appearance.
When I 'pull the fabric down' (i.e., place my right hand on left shoulder, then run it down the left arm, to make the left sleeve taut against my arm, with excess fabric running past the top of the cuff) there isn't exactly a lot of fabric running over; maybe 1.25".
So. . . what gives?! (and please, if you can, say more than "opt for a 32, mate.")
Thanks!
), I can make them to fit exactly as I want, and use the fabric I want. The downfall with non-non-iron: you need to iron them. But good quality Egyptian cotton requires no starch, and the wrinkles come right out (I also launder and iron my own...there I go again...ughh
).
...but through lots of tweaking the pattern templates, I was able to get it just right.
