Doing my first restoration, trying to resolve a problem...

[4th and Nesbitt]

I have begun my first brush restoration. The brush is an Ever-Ready 936 W (pictured before the restoration began) Getting that nylon knot drilled out was a *****, but I think I'm on my way. The problem I am having is how to repaint the white striping on the top part of the brush and the lettering on the front. I made an initial attempt at it with model paint, but I was not pleased with the results. Any suggestions?

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[jwhite]

I use a latex fill that is used in laser engraving to redo lettering and the like. I have heard of people using latex paint but the paint is a little thinner. With the fill, which has an tip like an Elmer's glue bottle you just fill in and wipe off the excess with a damp cloth let sit and clean up with rubbing alcohol. I think you can do the same with a gloss latex paint just be careful not to wipe out the grooves.

I'm not sure if the parallel lines were originally filled to begin with, looks like soap residue to me, not that you should let that stop you if that's the look your going for.

 

[DavyRay]

People who restore clarinets have this same problem. They use a sort of wax crayon to fill those little grooves. You press the wax into the grooves, then polish it off until the edges look right. It is not just wax, sort of like a paint stick. I will try to find you some specific product link. Hang on.

"Oil-based paint crayon" is what I found. Look at an art supply store. They should be available in metallic gold, silver, and solid colors. Mash it in. Wipe it off. Let it dry. Cover with wax to protect.

 

[4th and Nesbitt]

Thanks DavyRay, I appreciate it.

 

[JPDyson]

People who restore clarinets have this same problem. They use a sort of wax crayon to fill those little grooves. You press the wax into the grooves, then polish it off until the edges look right. It is not just wax, sort of like a paint stick. I will try to find you some specific product link. Hang on.

"Oil-based paint crayon" is what I found. Look at an art supply store. They should be available in metallic gold, silver, and solid colors. Mash it in. Wipe it off. Let it dry. Cover with wax to protect.

This is probably the best approach. You over-fill and polish down. I tend not to bother, but if I were to do it, that's what I'd do. Leave your dremel on the shelf - too high speed (and thusly high-heat) for the job. Sit on the couch, pop in a good move, and hand-polish for a while. You'll love the results.

As for the nylon, you'd run into a unique problem drilling that out due to heat and melting. Go in spurts, slower speeds, etc.

 

[4th and Nesbitt]

Good info. Has anybody ever used a Sharpie fine point paint pen for work on brushes? Seems like that would be easier to use than a paint crayon, but I have never tried either on a brush.

 

[maxman]

Good info. Has anybody ever used a Sharpie fine point paint pen for work on brushes? Seems like that would be easier to use than a paint crayon, but I have never tried either on a brush.

(I can't believe i'm saying this to the entire internet but...)
I've used a sharpie extra fine tip to colour in a d20 Dice set before.
It didn't work that well.
I don't think it would work on a brush.

yeah.... i'm a geek who plays D&D.

 

[Legion]

Get the paint on the tips of a small brush. Stipple it into the letters by poking the tips rather than wiping them across the letters. You don't have to be neat, just make sure there is paint through all the lettering. Wrap a cloth around a matchbox, or something like that, and buff the excess paint that went over the edges away (before it dries!).

Have a look at the Bamberger I did recently in the "share your restorations" thread. That's how I did that one.

 

[KindestCutofAll]

Looking to restore the same model. Too bad the image doesn't display.