I wonder which razor suits my situation?

[qwvb1111]

Hello everyone, I would like to ask about choosing a safety razor or straight razor since I am new to it. This will be a little bit long but please bear with me.

I am asian and unfortunately I have oily and acne prone skin. I am using Gillette skinguard cartridge razor to get a close shave (I don't think I have sensitive skin, I just want to be as gentle as possible). I shave once a week and recently bought a synthetic brush and Proraso shaving soap for lathering.

The beard under the chin and under the sideburns are coarse and dense. Since I shave once a week, there will be 4mm - 5mm of growth, and it usually takes 3 passes to get a close shave even with newly replaced blade. But after that, when I touch the thick beard area, it stings, and I feel like there are still 0.05mm stubble left.

I don't shave 2 or 3 times a week because it's too much of a hassle.

Even with shaving brush + soap re-lathered 2 times for 3 passes + new catridge blade, I still get the symptoms above. I doubt that is related to the brush and soap, so I wonder if the cartridge razor was sharp enough, or if it was really shaving or tearing my beard. Therefore I'm thinking of replacing it with a safety razor, or straight razor.

Muhle R41, Merkur MK34c, Edwin Jagger DE89 etc. are well-known beginner close comb razors but I am afraid those will be too mild for my stubble and will not get me a efficient and close shave, ideally 2 passes. So I am considering open comb razors.

￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣￣
My budget is around $65 USD. These are my current choices:

1) Parker Variant open comb　　　(adjustable so I can control aggresiveness, I just want to get the right razor at 1st trial, no regretting afterwards and buying another one)

2) Muhle R41 open comb　　　(spec of R41 is said to be standard, made in Germany so quality assured, but can't be adjusted so maybe not aggressive enough for my stubble?)

3) Parker SR1 shavette　　　(I heard shavette can nick easily, but if it is the most efficient and can get me the most close and clean shave, I don't think I am not capable of it)

For now I tend to choose Parker Variant open comb. Please tell me what you think, should I buy open comb or shavette? Should I shave the other way, like use pre-shave oil? Will close comb be enough? Thanks in advance.

 

[Guido75]

Hi, excellent questions and a good thing you are researching this.

Regarding your choice of razors: the R41 is a very effective/aggressive razor that can provide marble skin if you can master it. So don’t worry about that one not being fit for the job. You do have to mind your technique. The regular R41 is made from Zamak just so you know. It can last a long time provided you are careful with it.

I don’t have a Parker so cannot comment on that. Going straight for a shavette could be a way yes, because if you are going to have a learning curve anyway the initial razor shouldn’t matter that much. The total lack of safety bar or combs does make it very challenging from the start. But you are right. If you master it nothing will shave you closer because it’s your skin and the blade. Nothing else.

Another razor well within your budget is the Fatip open comb or safety bar or even slanted. There is talk about blade alignment but I usually get it done quickly and the shaves are amazing. My Piccolo is on par with the R41 without the scrapy or harsh feeling.

Coming from carts as you say the biggest challenge is pressure. Ordinarily a DE doesn’t require pressure and you let the razor do the work. Second DE shaving is about reduction not about a one pass and you are done although you certainly can be. So no pressure and reduction can get you smooth in 2-3 passes with a regular razor.

The other area you might want to explore is preshave. Spending s little more time in preparing your beard (especially if you only shave once) will accommodate a smoother relaxing shave. So you might want to try preshave and take more time lathering up.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Enjoy your process!

Guido

 

[qwvb1111]

Hi, excellent questions and a good thing you are researching this.

Regarding your choice of razors: the R41 is a very effective/aggressive razor that can provide marble skin if you can master it. So don’t worry about that one not being fit for the job. You do have to mind your technique. The regular R41 is made from Zamak just so you know. It can last a long time provided you are careful with it.

I don’t have a Parker so cannot comment on that. Going straight for a shavette could be a way yes, because if you are going to have a learning curve anyway the initial razor shouldn’t matter that much. The total lack of safety bar or combs does make it very challenging from the start. But you are right. If you master it nothing will shave you closer because it’s your skin and the blade. Nothing else.

Another razor well within your budget is the Fatip open comb or safety bar or even slanted. There is talk about blade alignment but I usually get it done quickly and the shaves are amazing. My Piccolo is on par with the R41 without the scrapy or harsh feeling.

Coming from carts as you say the biggest challenge is pressure. Ordinarily a DE doesn’t require pressure and you let the razor do the work. Second DE shaving is about reduction not about a one pass and you are done although you certainly can be. So no pressure and reduction can get you smooth in 2-3 passes with a regular razor.

The other area you might want to explore is preshave. Spending s little more time in preparing your beard (especially if you only shave once) will accommodate a smoother relaxing shave. So you might want to try preshave and take more time lathering up.

Just a couple of thoughts.

Enjoy your process!

Guido

Thank you for your reply sir.

Do you think an adjustable razor is needed to get the most suitable blade gap and blade exposure for myself, so I can shave efficiently and closer that don't sting? Or is fixed blade gap R41 open comb will suffice (only a matter of technique)?

Since their price difference is almost 2 times, and I want to make the initial razor a successful experience, so if fixed blade gap and exposure is enough then I will go for it.

Another thing is, do you have any suggestion on pre-shave oil or blam? Like you said I would like to prepare the beard better and I didn't search for that yet, so would like to hear some suggestions. Thanks in advance.

 

[Guido75]

Do you think an adjustable razor is needed to get the most suitable blade gap and blade exposure for myself,

Not necessarily. Adjustable is just more convenient because you have multiple razors in one. But that said I personally only have one adjustable and I rarely change the settings. Mostly I use non adjustable razors.

Or is fixed blade gap R41 open comb will suffice (only a matter of technique)

The R41 caters to both newer wet shavers and veterans alike. It is a unique razor in this wet shaving world. Usually it is more a matter of technique. Not always. But it’s always a good place to start. Personally I don’t think you can go wrong with the R41, but not everyone likes its blade feel or shave experience. Another option would be the Mühle Rocca which is R41 effectiveness but with R89 mildness in experience. But that’s slightly above the budget (€99) you mentioned, so hence I withheld listing it earlier.

Another thing is, do you have any suggestion on pre-shave oil or blam?

Sure. I have had great results with Proraso preshave. I am currently using KCG Face Wash (I want to finish the bottle), but they have changed the formula since. But an olive soap bar might do the trick just the same. On fuller beards I have read others get great results using shea butter.

 

[BigJ]

The R41 is only razor on your list that I am familiar with. It has many fans, but for me, it was just too aggressive.

Adjustable razors are definitely appealing as they offer many options. My all time favorite adjustable is the vintage Slim. And these do come up on BST and other sites. Hopefully, other guys will be able to comment on the Parkers.

 

[abies]

Thank you for your reply sir.

Do you think an adjustable razor is needed to get the most suitable blade gap and blade exposure for myself, so I can shave efficiently and closer that don't sting? Or is fixed blade gap R41 open comb will suffice (only a matter of technique)?

Since their price difference is almost 2 times, and I want to make the initial razor a successful experience, so if fixed blade gap and exposure is enough then I will go for it.

Another thing is, do you have any suggestion on pre-shave oil or blam? Like you said I would like to prepare the beard better and I didn't search for that yet, so would like to hear some suggestions. Thanks in advance.

I think any fixed razor can be used with the right technique. The catch is that I think everyone has a technique or technique range that feels natural to them, so you're more likely to enjoy a shave and injure yourself less with a certain kind of razor. You can get that with a fixed razor, but you then either have to know what you're looking for in terms of preferences, have a bit of luck in choosing a razor, or play base rates well and be fairly average in your preferences and pick an average razor. The upside of a fixed razor is I think they generally have fewer failure points, although you'll find plenty of adjustables that are older than many of the people of on this forum.

A Slim adjustable is one of my favorite razors, and is in your price range probably depending on where you're at. There's really big fans of the Parker Variant though and it seems like a nice razor; I just haven't tried one. Another option is a used Pearl Flexi?

If you wanted a really nice mild durable fixed razor well within your range, you could try a vintage three-piece Tech as well.

I guess now that I think about it, there's some 3d printed fixed razors with swappable base plates out of Europe people have liked? That I recall also being in your price range too, and it would be kind of a hybrid of adjustable and fixed. It's plastic but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

 

[brucered]

The R41 is one of the last razors I'd recommend someone new to wet shaving.

Vintage Gillette Tech, Slim, Fatboy, Superspeed are all great options. I would go straight bar/closed comb if it was me starting out, I don't care for Open Comb razors blade feel.

Any razor can cut your stubble. Your stubble is different than anyone else's and your skin is not more sensitive, it is just not accustomed to shaving regularly.

If it was me, I'd pick a MILD razor and sharp blade, do 1-2 pass, WTG and work on my technique.

 

[StewB]

As others have said, mostly the issue with a double edge (DE) razor is technique. You might also consider single edge (SE) razors. For me the Supply Pro performs well and is very easy to use.

 

[Quaznoid]

This might be the one time I suggest an adjustable. A SuperAdjustable has the widest range of adjustment of all. Can be had in the US for $10-40; can’t speak for other counties. Perhaps on the web.

With the adjustable you can experiment with various closeness settings to find one that is compatible with your skin type.

 

[Phoenixkh]

First of all, welcome to the B&B community.

@qwvb1111 , you might want to take a look at the PAA Filament.... They are in stock at the moment... It's a fun, little and light, double slant open comb razor. It's pretty efficient. It compares very well with the fairly expensive razors I have and it's right around $30 plus shipping... Just google "PAA Filament razor" and it comes right up.

Edit: You might also enjoy the Goodfellas Smile Bayonetta.... It's a brass razor so no worries about the metal deconstructing.... I did hand polish mine with Simichrome because I like razors a bit more shiny.. personal choice... but the Bayonetta is a very fine razor for around $60 on Amazon.... It made my top razor list.. quite a feat for a fairly inexpensive razor.

 

[Chickencutlets]

The fatip gentile has been absolutely impressive, an it can anb old its own against my other razors well over 100 dollars. They sell for like 20 dollars. I pair it with Personna blue blades and it mows down any hair while being gentle and very efficient. I have weirdly sensitive skin and would recommend this razor to anyone looking to spend on the lower end.

 

[Albert V]

My suggestion is to go cheap until you master technique, and decide that single blade wet shaving is right for you.

My journey started like that with the inexpensive Viking Chieftan Razor. About $20, more or less on Amazon. It it a simple twist to open razor which I found to be rather aggressive, often accompanied with a bit of bloodshed now and again, as I learned to mastered technique. In the beginning one needs to relearn technique vs disposable cartridges since the head does no not flex to accommodate facial contours. The most important tip is to not use pressure and let the razor glide over a silky smooth lather. Playing with a under $25 razor is good way to see if this is for you.

Since the Viking Chieftain was a bit agressive I moved to the Muhle R89. Much smoother shave and aggressiveness can be managed by testing different blades from a sample pack, Feather and Kai blades tend to the most aggressive/efficient. Eventually, I complimented the Muhle R89 with a Merkur 37C slant for heavier beard days. Those two where all I needed but I had an itch to scratch so I moved on to a Rockwell 6, first the 6C then later the 6S, then sold everything else. I pick the plate I need for the growth I have.

Muhle 41 is NOT a beginner razor. Poor technique, leads to lots of bloodshed which can discourage one from pursuing this type shaving. A shavette requires much better technique and experience since there is no safety bar. The Parker shavette uses half DE blades so little benefit for result requiring better technique. A superior Shavette, like Kai or Feather uses Artist Club blades which are longer more closely approximate single edge razors. The Merkur 34 or Muhle 89 are a good place to start. Adjustable is also a safe bet but in the beginning one might keep fiddling with the settings to get a good shave instead of mastering technique and learning how the razor plays with different blades. So as I originally started, consider going cheap to learn technique, like a Vikings Chieftan, Gillette King C, while testing different blades from a sample pack as well as different shave soap, then move on if needed.

Edited to add: if you get a Muhle R89, you can later purchase just the R41 head for about and swap onto the same handle

 

[musicman1951]

Welcome to the forum, we're glad you're here.

I have thoughts, and it's entirely possible none will be at all helpful - so keep that in mind.

Sting is usually called razor burn here, sometimes just irritation, but it comes from less than ideal technique. If you use a razor that's too aggressive for your technique you will have an easier time producing irritation, so I'm not totally convinced you should run out and buy the most aggressive razor you can find. With proper technique you can shave with any razor, although one that isn't a good match for your face/beard will still make it easier to produce razor burn. Very aggressive razors are, by their nature, more prone to irritation, but if the razor is way too mild you can produce irritation by going over the same spot multiple times - usually adding pressure as you do.

The sting comes from too much pressure, or poor razor angle, and/or both together. Both are fairly common with new DE shavers, so don't despair if it takes a few weeks to find your groove.

You're only going to shave once a week and you're trying for a BBS (babies butt shave) that removes every trace that there was ever hair there? 6 days a week you don't seem to care that there's some stubble, but on day 7 you want perfection. That's fine, your plans need not make sense to me - so far the fools have not let me run the world! Just something to ponder. You might be better served for a time to be satisfied with a pretty good shave until you get your technique down.

All the best.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I think starting with the "right" razor and then developing technique is a good strategy.... If you can determine from reading posts here on B&B, a person can figure out what kind of whiskers they have... along with what their skin prefers.. They can pick a starting razor and stick with that for a few months at a minimum... That's what I did..

Then I branched out as I knew what I needed... But had I started with a horrible razor, I doubt I would have learned as quickly. This is just one man's opinion.

 

[NorthernSoul]

The Skinguard cartridge is made to protect the skin, so it may not give you as close a shave as you'd like.

Getting a close shave with a standard double edge razor doesn't necessarily require an aggressive razor. Your preparation and shave technique are very important to getting good results. There is some skill that will take a bit of practice to learn.

The truth is you could probably get good shave results with lots of different razors. I would think it's better not to start with the really aggressive ones.

 

[psfred]

Welcom to Badger and Blade! You will get a lot of good advice here, it's a great forum.

My advice is to shave immediately after a shower -- you want that coarse hair fully softened by absorbing water. This makes a huge difference.

If you want to continue to shave only every 3 or 4 days, an open comb razor is a good idea as it will not clog from the longer stubble which otherwise has to fit through the slots in the razor baseplate. If they stack up in there, the blade won't cut properly and will feel "dull" and pull a lot since it's slicing hairs above the skin. If not an open comb, I second the advice to use an adjustable -- most of them out there will do the job, but I prefer a Fatboy, Slim, or Super Adjustable (Gillette razors from 1959 to 1976 or so). You will be able to get some setting for any blade that gives you a decent shave.

Irritation/razor burn is from scraping your skin with the sharp edge of the blade, and it will happen any time you use an incorrect razor angle or too much pressure. A double edge razor with a fresh blade requires very, very little pressure, but you will need to hold the razor at the angle that puts the edge on your skin so that it cleanly cuts hair perpendicular to the hair shaft. Too steep and it will scrape the hair off while abrading your skin, too shallow and it will split the hair above the skin, leaving stubble and pull a lot.

Take a look at the razor with the blade installed. It should project a very small amount past an imaginary plane that touches the cap and the guard, and if you imagine a flat bevel ground on both sides of the edge of the blade, you should be able to "see" what angle the handle of the razor needs to be in reference to your skin for the flat bevel to be a few degrees steeper than flat on the skin -- at that angle, it will cut the best with the least pulling. Experiment a little with the angle of the handle, you should be able to find an angle that lets the blade cut well with the least "pulling on the hairs" sensation. This will vary with blade brand and razor -- I find that Lord blades required a steeper shaving angle than PPI blades for instance, or Personnas.

The other factor that is very important is your soap and the lather quality you are using. Soap softens the hair, and makes your skin slick so that the sharp edge slips over it without abrading the skin. In your case, I suspect you need something "skin friendly" as well to avoid stripping the oils off of your skin and triggering acne. Nothing kills shaving enjoyment more than ingrown hairs and acne outbreaks!

I'm not sure what you are using for soap, but whatever you are using the lather needs to be shiny and fairly thin. Your skin should be very slick after a razor pass, if not, you lather needs more water in it to maintain the slickness. I get really good shaves when the lather is dripping off my razor while I shave. A layer of thick, pasty lather that leaves your skin sticky afer the razor passes over it will give you a poor shave irritate your skin.

Hope this helps!

 

[Phoenixkh]

The Skinguard cartridge is made to protect the skin, so it may not give you as close a shave as you'd like.

Getting a close shave with a standard double edge razor doesn't necessarily require an aggressive razor. Your preparation and shave technique are very important to getting good results. There is some skill that will take a bit of practice to learn.

The truth is you could probably get good shave results with lots of different razors. I would think it's better not to start with the really aggressive ones.

I couldn't agree more.... I find, for my face (I'll post a photo below), I use razors in the upper mid to lower medium efficiency zone. Over the past 2 years, I've been able to find some razors that can tackle my whiskers with ease but don't attack my skin.

I do quite a bit of pre-shave prep and I find, that makes a huge difference for me. I know others say... just use bath soap and you'll be fine.... That didn't work for me.... And I did quite a bit of experimentation to develop my pre-shave routine.

Here's what a razor has to tackle... I don't have the most dense beard out there... or as coarse whiskers as some people, but this is my face with 2 and a half days growth, as I shave in the evenings.

Please forgive the ratty T-Shirt... I'm home trying to pass a kidney stone and this is one of my ..... comfort shirts.

 

[AshleyC]

I've no experience with the R41, but I remember not liking the most aggressive razors I encountered as a beginner. Those being a Cadet from Pearl and a Gillette Old Type.

I'd look at Yaqi's "The Final Cut" adjustable razor if I was in your situation.

I used mine this morning. I do most of my face on the "5" setting, then use the "1" setting for places I'm prone to getting a nick or cut.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3256803625442236.html

And it's nearly a third of your budget.

 

[Jay21]

Lots of great advice so far. I’ll add that the Muhle R41 is one of my favorites, but it is super aggressive.

If you shave once a week, I’d recommend an open comb. The RazorRock Game Changer 68 OC might be a good option for you.

 

[qwvb1111]

The R41 is one of the last razors I'd recommend someone new to wet shaving.

Vintage Gillette Tech, Slim, Fatboy, Superspeed are all great options. I would go straight bar/closed comb if it was me starting out, I don't care for Open Comb razors blade feel.

Any razor can cut your stubble. Your stubble is different than anyone else's and your skin is not more sensitive, it is just not accustomed to shaving regularly.

If it was me, I'd pick a MILD razor and sharp blade, do 1-2 pass, WTG and work on my technique.

Any recommendations on mild razor and sharp blades?

I was thinking of R41 plus astra or wilkinson sword blades. If I start out with almost no pressure and very slowly, I think I can still get no irritaion or nicks?