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Section 7 - 1, What do you need and what's recommended?

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What do you really need and what’s recommended?
This is the 50 million dollar question, as it really depends on the individual. You need to ask yourself the following, what’s your budget? Are you going to be restoring a lot of razors, or are you looking for a basic setup for maintaining a few straight razors for personal use? Do you want the best of the best? Do you prefer natural products for a more traditional approach? Do you prefer high tech abrasives? While there is no failsafe hone combination to/for every new (or experienced) straight razor shaver – the basic principle is the same – varying grits of abrasion to establish, then polish (to a microscopic mirror finish) in stages. What this means, is you should have at least a means of establishing an initial bevel, or edge on a razor. Now, even if you only plan on having one straight razor your entire life, and further are going to purchase it pre-honed or send it off to be professionally honed, you still need/want a hone capable of establishing an initial bevel/edge. Why? Simple… if you happed to inadvertently tap the cutting edge of your razor onto the faucet (or any other hard object), drop your razor, your kids get a hold of it and use it to cut a bunch of paper – or whatever the event may be, you’ll still have to shave… and ideally with your new best friend and prized possession… your straight razor. Trying to establish the edge when you only have say a finishing hone – isn’t practical, as (depending on the stone, if it is even possible) it could literally take 5+ hours of honing to get a shaving sharp edge or remove a nick from the edge, or – it could days, when with the right array of hones, it may only take a matter of minutes, or up to an hour. Having a reasonable array of grits available is not just handy, but essential.

So – at the VERY least… what do you need? At the very least, you’re going to need something around 4000 grit to establish an initial bevel/edge, and 8000 grit to polish the microscopic scratch marks away, left from the 4000 grit. For knives, and most purposes, 4000 grit is considered pretty fine, so with straight razors, we are dealing with incredibly fine grits. The Norton 4000/8000 combination stone (See section 7 – 3 for more info) is the most widely used, and recommended straight razor hone, as it can both establish an edge and polish the edge to a point which provides a comfortable shave. Now, in my opinion this is about the bare minimum, but this doesn’t mean this is your only option, as you could for instance instead get a 4000 grit Blue Belgian hone, and a 8000 grit yellow Belgian hone (also known as Belgian Coticles) or medium and fine spydero hones, and so on and so forth – there are a lot of options. Due to it’s size, price and the quality, for most the Norton 4/8K is the hone of choice.

What is recommended? This gets a little trickier, as it really depends on your budget, options available to you at the time of purchase, etc – but I recommend getting a Norton 4/8K – then another “finishing hone.” Basically a finishing hone is a hone that will further polish the edge after having been honed on the 8K side of the Norton, which will provide an even finer, more polished, and sharper edge, which equates to a closer, more comfortable shave. What complicates matters with finishing hones however, is they tend to be quite personalized… some love an abrasive pasted paddle strop, others a Belgian Yellow Coticle, and so on and so forth. Personally, I would recommend a 4 sided paddle strop, with abrasive diamond pastes in 3 micron, 1 micron, .5 micron, and .25 micron, as it gives you even MORE options (grit wise) and is the least expensive option. Diamond pasted strops are much easier to use than a hone, and even inexperienced straight razor users get superlative results with diamond pasted paddle strops.

Think of it like this.... let's say you want to replicate a $66 Tony Miller 4 sided pasted strop with 3 micron, 1 micron, .5 micron, .25 micron diamond pastes with shapton hones....

Using the least expensive route, here's what you'd need....

1.) $50 4000 Grit (3.68 Micron) Shapton Glass Stone
2.) $100 16,000 Grit (.92 Micron) Shapton Glass Stone
3.) $280 30,000 Girt (.48 Micron) Shapton Glass Stone

You're up to $430, and guess what... you still won't have as micro-fine an edge as you would with the $66 Paddle, as the .25 micron diamond paste equates to basically a 60,000 grit hone!

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oldschool

my wife recently brought me a fromm straight razor and it is clearly not shave ready. Not sure what to do next as I cannot find someone to send it to. At one point in my life i worked in kitchens and became very adept at sharpening knives-a prerequisite for the job. Would prefer to keep my own blades sharp, but want to practice shaving with it more than i want to "hone" my skills at sharpening. Any advice?
 
my wife recently brought me a fromm straight razor and it is clearly not shave ready. Not sure what to do next as I cannot find someone to send it to. At one point in my life i worked in kitchens and became very adept at sharpening knives-a prerequisite for the job. Would prefer to keep my own blades sharp, but want to practice shaving with it more than i want to "hone" my skills at sharpening. Any advice?

I'd advise you to send it to someone to hone. There's a list of people who can hone razors here. I'd then buy a Wapi or Double Arrow razor off eBay and practice honing with it. As far as the necessary hones, read through this guide. It has loads of information.
 
Just to get this strait.
For flattening/prep of your honing stones you want to use a,
DMT D8C

I was looking at the DMT 8K or the Chinese 12K for honing and a Naniwa 12000 as a finishing stone.

What are your thoughts on these?
Suggestions?

A lot of great information here! I spent till 0130 reading this!
 
The CH12k is a finisher, like the Naniwa 12k. The DMT 8k is good before the mentioned two finishers. The Naniwa is like 5 times faster, but costs much more, and you must lap it regularly. The CH12k is very hard to lap, buy one that is prelapped and maybe you won't have to lap it ever again. But if you have a DMT coarse, you can lap your CH12k with it.
 
That would be a perfect combo. The nani 3k/8k is rated as a very good hone, and the 8k leaves a very fine edge.
 
Very new to str8s, spent countless anonymous hours poring through these forums before getting started. Finally signed up because I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer for.

I took the plunge a couple months ago, and am generally very pleased with my results so far. I've been using a pasted paddle strop to refresh, which I like, and I'm finally looking to buy a hone (for the new razor I just bought - did I mention I have acquisition disorder?). I've done a fair amount of reading, and the general consensus seems to be the Norton 4K/8K, but I am drawn to the DMT Dia-Sharp EE (8K), which would seem to have the benefit of never needing to be lapped. I don't see many posts about the DMT, so my question is - am I missing something? Is there something about the DMT that makes it less than ideal, or is there some nebulous magical property of waterstones that makes them superior? Help!
 
Very new to str8s, spent countless anonymous hours poring through these forums before getting started. Finally signed up because I have a question that I can't seem to find an answer for.

I took the plunge a couple months ago, and am generally very pleased with my results so far. I've been using a pasted paddle strop to refresh, which I like, and I'm finally looking to buy a hone (for the new razor I just bought - did I mention I have acquisition disorder?). I've done a fair amount of reading, and the general consensus seems to be the Norton 4K/8K, but I am drawn to the DMT Dia-Sharp EE (8K), which would seem to have the benefit of never needing to be lapped. I don't see many posts about the DMT, so my question is - am I missing something? Is there something about the DMT that makes it less than ideal, or is there some nebulous magical property of waterstones that makes them superior? Help!

The DMT 8k is fine, you can use it without problems, but you must get something after it. Chromox, diamond paste, or a finisher. Honing feel is a bit weird, its a steel plate after all. I have a naniwa 3k/8k too, I don' lap it too frequently, and I like the feel of it better.
 
The DMT 8k is fine, you can use it without problems, but you must get something after it. Chromox, diamond paste, or a finisher. Honing feel is a bit weird, its a steel plate after all. I have a naniwa 3k/8k too, I don' lap it too frequently, and I like the feel of it better.

Thanks. I've been using diamond paste(2/1/.5) on a strop so far with pretty good results. I somewhat figured "feel" must be the drawback, since on paper at least it seems perfect. Thanks again for the advice.
 
Thanks. I've been using diamond paste(2/1/.5) on a strop so far with pretty good results. I somewhat figured "feel" must be the drawback, since on paper at least it seems perfect. Thanks again for the advice.

If you already have diamond paste and you like it, than a DMT would be a good addition. If the feel of the DMT is not to your liking, you can trade it any time for a norton 4k/8k.
 
Are all 4-sided paddle strops less than 2" wide?

SRD sells a 3" wide 2-sided strop that is modular. The strops are magnetic so you can interchange them. The wide surface makes it easy enough for even a rookie like me to have had satisfactory results.
 
So... Could a guy on a budget (me) get away with maintaining a suitable edge on a single straight using a DMT 8k and a 4-sided paddle strop with 3/1/.5 micron diamond paste? I welcome any suggestions for a better set up. Thanks.
 
So... Could a guy on a budget (me) get away with maintaining a suitable edge on a single straight using a DMT 8k and a 4-sided paddle strop with 3/1/.5 micron diamond paste? I welcome any suggestions for a better set up. Thanks.

Yes, absolutely. After you mastered them, you will be very satisfied with it. You could get some Crox too, to have a really smooth shave.
 
So... Could a guy on a budget (me) get away with maintaining a suitable edge on a single straight using a DMT 8k and a 4-sided paddle strop with 3/1/.5 micron diamond paste? I welcome any suggestions for a better set up. Thanks.

No question. I'd go so far as to say you can get away with just the paddle for a long time if you had a well-honed edge to start with. I started with a professionally honed straight in November and have been using nothing but pasted strops with no problem. I was looking for the hone recommendation for a newly purchased blade that was "factory-honed", but I don't see using it on my first blade for the foreseeable future. I'm sure some of the gurus here can get you pointed in the right direction, but from a fellow novice's perspective the strop is easy to use and can keep you sharp almost indefinitely.
 
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