Wooden Rubberset
- Thread starter Ohmysan
- Start date
The handle appears to be in excellent shape! Some very light sanding, probably no lower than 400 grit, maybe some oil (Danish, Teak, Walnut, etc) and then your favorite finish. Personally I wouldn't go high gloss with that one, some oil and a low sheen polyurethane or a few coats of satin finish CA glue to protect it from water and it would be beautiful, but that's just my opinion. See if you can redo the lettering with a model paintbrush, which looks like it would be the hardest part. It sounds like you don't have a lathe so spray can poly would be the way to go imho. That's a really nice find!
Nice score.
- Thread starter
- #4
I see what you mean regarding the lathe for the ca glue
Might have to find someone before i put the black cap back on
Might have to find someone before i put the black cap back on
You do not need a lathe to apply the CA. You can apply it as you would any varnish with a brush or a lint free cloth. Use acetone as a thinner if anything needs cleaning or correcting. Good technique will leave a finish with few to no streaks. Three to four coats would be good unless you want an in-the-wood appearance. Lightly sand between coats for a smooth surface. You can then rub out the finish to your preference, from satin to high gloss. Thin CA will penetrate the wood better than thicker CA. However, producing a smooth finish in this manner is not beginner friendly.
Danish oils, tung oil finish, Watco, etc., are not true oil finishes, and they don't look like an oil finish. They are wiping varnishes. These are generally easy to apply for beginners, and can be buffed out to your desired sheen. A spar varnish will work like, and produce similar results to these types of wiping varnishes. These need two to four weeks of cure time before buffing (ignore the cure times on the cans).
Setting aside my bias for poly in that I think its only use is for hardwood flooring (actually prefer urethane minus the poly part), polyurethane is the easiest finish to apply (but the most difficult to repair). For that handle, my preference would be a satin poly. I think it would look good. If using a spray can, it would need multiple think coats if sprayed to avoid drips and bulges. A wipe on poly will probably be easier to produce an even finish. Poly does not rub out well (or rather, at all), but I think this is the best product for a beginner to produce a beautiful result.
Danish oils, tung oil finish, Watco, etc., are not true oil finishes, and they don't look like an oil finish. They are wiping varnishes. These are generally easy to apply for beginners, and can be buffed out to your desired sheen. A spar varnish will work like, and produce similar results to these types of wiping varnishes. These need two to four weeks of cure time before buffing (ignore the cure times on the cans).
Setting aside my bias for poly in that I think its only use is for hardwood flooring (actually prefer urethane minus the poly part), polyurethane is the easiest finish to apply (but the most difficult to repair). For that handle, my preference would be a satin poly. I think it would look good. If using a spray can, it would need multiple think coats if sprayed to avoid drips and bulges. A wipe on poly will probably be easier to produce an even finish. Poly does not rub out well (or rather, at all), but I think this is the best product for a beginner to produce a beautiful result.
You can do a CA finish without a lathe, it's just a LOT easier with one. Since you mentioned you haven't done this before I suggested spray poly because it will be much easier for a beginner. Like Mr Bob, I'm not a fan of poly either (I have spray bottles and a can of wipe/brush on that have been in my shop almost 15 years because they don't get used, someday I should throw them out), but you'll get a nice waterproof shine without the hassle of doing a CA finish.
- Thread starter
- #7
Wel im back on the scene to restore this
have attached some pics with the handle apart
Is it best to dremel this knot out
have attached some pics with the handle apart
Is it best to dremel this knot out
I'm new to brush restoration, so take my suggestions with a grain of salt. I would Dremel the knot out. Just be very careful not to mess up the threads. You could try steaming the knot out, but I'm not sure how the plastic would react. It could just melt. Just go slow. Looks like this will be a beauty of a restoration.
What is the black part made of? If it's bakelite then a carnauba paste wax might do wonders for it. I've used it (Trewax, IIRC) on antique bakelite radio cabinets and knobs and old black desk phones.
- Thread starter
- #10
Well the knot is out tonight
quite simple on this ,easier than the ever ready
There is a metal band where the old knot sat
has anyone any idea on this
thanks paul
quite simple on this ,easier than the ever ready
There is a metal band where the old knot sat
has anyone any idea on this
thanks paul
I've found those metal bands on a few of the older brushes I've worked on. I think it was used to clamp the knot together before it was set in rubber. I always remove it; it's a soft metal either tin or lead and pretty easy to get out of there.
Looking forward to how your brush turns out. I'm planning to use a hand rub CA finish next time I get a wood handle like this to restore as well.
Looking forward to how your brush turns out. I'm planning to use a hand rub CA finish next time I get a wood handle like this to restore as well.
