Wood scales
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I said that and no it isn’t. I did it to salvage scales that were otherwise irretrievably lost.
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Scott, I don't think it was you. Here is the straight razor that I purchased 2019 Limited Edition The Blades Grim Straight - https://www.classicshaving.com/products/2019-limited-edition-the-blades-grim-straight and if see the review from Phillip Sorenson, he is the one who did that.
Ah. I mentioned restoring my son’s Dovo Olive with mineral oil just the other day. He must have got it super wet when using. The scales were warped and the wood looked like it was about to crack.
The oil rejuvenated it and the scales assumed their original shape. It’s still a beautiful razor, but doesn’t look as nice as it originally did. Naturally, as one might expect, the wood darkened.
My Bismarck and Flowing have very dense, black wood. The first is ebony, I believe, and the second is grenadilla (clarinet wood). Both are relatively impervious to moisture.
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If wood is going to be used for razor scales, the wood needs to be "stabilized", which means the wood has been pressure treated with resins to seal the pores. Otherwise, moisture will eventually penetrate the wood. The photos of the razor do not look like the wood has been sealed.
One product you might try is Renaissance Wax. It is used by museums to protect various artifacts. Wax will last longer than oils.
One product you might try is Renaissance Wax. It is used by museums to protect various artifacts. Wax will last longer than oils.
At that price, I'd expect the wood to be stable.
Anyway, the blade will degrade much faster than the wood from humidity, so unless the wood is very porous and actually trapped the moister (which would then be bad for the blade), I'd assume you should be OK as is.
Anyway, the blade will degrade much faster than the wood from humidity, so unless the wood is very porous and actually trapped the moister (which would then be bad for the blade), I'd assume you should be OK as is.
I think this sums it up well - it depends on the type of wood. Though you always want to keep the scales dry, some woods are not bothered by a little moisture like the humidity of a bathroom. Other woods, like Olive, though its often used for both scales and bowls, are not particularly resistant to rot.
Olive | The Wood Database (Hardwood)
I think this sums it up well - it depends on the type of wood. Though you always want to keep the scales dry, some woods are not bothered by a little moisture like the humidity of a bathroom. Other woods, like Olive, though its often used for both scales and bowls, are not particularly resistant to rot.
Olive | The Wood Database (Hardwood)
www.wood-database.com
Nice site
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The scales pictured here are laminate. A tad different than plain "wood".
Depends on what you are trying to do and why. Are they getting wet, are they suceptible to being damaged by getting wet? Not all woods, plain or laminated, are the same. I've had plenty of razors in non-stabilized wood scales and they did not need to be treated. But I did like putting some oil on a Dovo with Olivewood scales because it darkened the look and increased the contrast of the grain too. I have some knives with ebony handles and they get a bit of oil now and then. I just put new handles on 4 knives that had walnut handles that would have survived better had they been oiled now and again throughout their history.
If you want to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture, then Ren Wax or curing finish like 100% Tung Oil will do the job. Plain oils will soak in and, at best, only leave a temporary layer of protection. Tung oil is more permanent. But it's a finish, not just a typical oil.
If you're just looking to bring back some visible pizzaz to the surface, a dot or two of mineral oil on a cloth might do it - and it's fine to do that btw, but you may darken the wood in the process.
The person that made the scales or made/sold the razor can sometimes be the best person to ask.
If you want to prevent the wood from absorbing moisture, then Ren Wax or curing finish like 100% Tung Oil will do the job. Plain oils will soak in and, at best, only leave a temporary layer of protection. Tung oil is more permanent. But it's a finish, not just a typical oil.
If you're just looking to bring back some visible pizzaz to the surface, a dot or two of mineral oil on a cloth might do it - and it's fine to do that btw, but you may darken the wood in the process.
The person that made the scales or made/sold the razor can sometimes be the best person to ask.
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I’ve used danish oil to treat wood scales. It darkens them a bit. It’s not actually an oil more like a thinned coat of varnish without the shine.
Danish Oil is some great stuff. I used it on these matte finished maple scales and the grain just exploded out! I am very happy with the results.
Those scales are beautiful. Well done!
I’d contact the manufacturer asking if they need sealed/treated, and id put a drop of oil somewhere on the scales and watch what happens.
If it beads up on the surface for longer than it takes you to shave and wipe the razor off then you probably don’t have anything to be afraid of here.
Also not everything needs to be treated, but unfinished walnut SURE needs to be treated. With this being a laminate, 90%+ chance the whole scale assembly is basically epoxy impregnated from when they glued the veneer layers together. Even if you wanted to seal it or oil it you might not be able to get anything to soak in.
If it beads up on the surface for longer than it takes you to shave and wipe the razor off then you probably don’t have anything to be afraid of here.
Also not everything needs to be treated, but unfinished walnut SURE needs to be treated. With this being a laminate, 90%+ chance the whole scale assembly is basically epoxy impregnated from when they glued the veneer layers together. Even if you wanted to seal it or oil it you might not be able to get anything to soak in.
The scales look to be bare and as suggested Tung oil is probably your best choice in my opinion!
Not being funny here but whats it take to soak the scales for 30 mins in Danish oil or Tung oil, to me its worth the time whats better soaking or making new scales. As it give you peace of mind that's its been done and not just said its been done,
Its worth it to yourself to protect your investment a few pence, it better than hundreds of pounds going down the drain due to scales getting wet and rusting the blade. I'm classed as old school dunk it and you protect investment no point in crying after.. Even if it is laminated dunk them just to be safe but stabilized wood dont bother, its protected by resin that's been forced deep into the wood... That's just my gut feeling...
Its worth it to yourself to protect your investment a few pence, it better than hundreds of pounds going down the drain due to scales getting wet and rusting the blade. I'm classed as old school dunk it and you protect investment no point in crying after.. Even if it is laminated dunk them just to be safe but stabilized wood dont bother, its protected by resin that's been forced deep into the wood... That's just my gut feeling...
I don't put anything on my ebony scales, they seem fine.
Ebony is a whole different animal than American black walnut though... when a few people said not everything needs sealed I think they had ebony and a few others in mind.
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