Wonky Slim Question

[Triple Beam]

So, I picked up a Slim adjustable at a local antique place -- less than five bucks, so no harm, no foul. It seems to be cosmetically nice, but doesn't adjust at all. The adjusting ring turns nice and clicks on each number, but the head doesn't seem to adjust. Just maintains a large, massive blade gap regardless of the setting. Is it a dead soldier? Any advice? I cleaned it in an ultrasonic cleaner and oiled the mechanism.

I am adjusting it with the TTO doors open. Never had an adjustable, so this is uncharted territory for me. Doesn't seem to be rocket science, though.

 

[BBrad]

There is an adjuster piece just above the adjustment dial that extends upward and has four "fingers" that press against the bottom of the blade. It should move freely up and down as the adjustment collar is turned with the doors open.

Since this is the part that actually provides the adjustment, if it gets stuck and does not move you will have no actual adjustment, even though the collar clicks through all the numbers. It most likely is stuck in the highest position, providing the largest blade gap.

Soap scum or mineral deposits between the inside of the adjuster and the handle stem is the most likely culprit, and can generally be dissolved out with a good long soak in very hot soapy water. This part is designed to be loose-fitting, and any buildup of crud will cause interference.

 

[shecky]

Yes, it's a bit hard to explain, but the adjustment only moves the U channel shaped plate underneath what would be the baseplate. That U channel plate moves up or down depending on the adjustment. It protrudes above the baseplate through the four openings in the safety bar with the four "fingers" BBrad describes. The amount they protrude above the baseplate depends on the adjustment setting.

With the barn doors opened, and the adjustment set to one, that U channel plate should be fairly loose. Held vertically, you should be able to lift it up so that the "fingers" rise from about flush with the topside of the baseplate to about 1/16" above the baseplate. What this does is lift the blade so that when the doors are closed, the gap depends on the numerical setting.

If that U channel with the "fingers" is not loose, there are plenty of places where it could be potentially gunked frozen, which is probably what's wrong.

 

[ginhud]

I've used plain ole penetrating oil to good effect for these mechanisms. Dump some on/in and let it set awhile, even overnight. As it sets, come back and play with it a few times and you should see things start working properly! It may smell but it will go away eventually, after some good soap and water rinses. Hope you get it going!

 

[Topgumby]

Does it make an audible "click" while turning the adjustment ring?

Might be "out of time". There's a simple fix for that....Found it.

Could be overclocked. Push in the spring with the end of a paper clip while on 1 and turn it backwards to 9. If you can now adjust it down to 1 and the adjuster plate drops down below the bottom plate, it wasn't overclocked. If it still clears the bottom plate to make contact with a blade, it was overclocked and your adjustable is now fixed.

 

[Triple Beam]

It does make an audible click -- what I would describe as a "positive stop". The adjusting ring turns with no problem, just nothing happens. I have been soaking it in Scrubbing Bubbles again today, trying maybe free up some gunk. Meh.....may be five bucks gone, may work out yet.

 

[Topgumby]

If it adjusts and clicks all the way from 1 to 9, it's probably not out of time.

I've had good luck clearing up gunky innards on Slims by boiling them, using a penetrating oil like Kano or PB Blaster, then pouring boiling hot water down the handle from the head end. Might lose the paint in the numbers, but worth a shot.

Good luck.