Wisdom Gained
- Thread starter TexanTom
- Start date
I'm glad people are at least hearing my upper lip advice, even if they're not heeding it. Rules are meant to be broken, right? I have absolutely shaved my upper lip going ATG and yet, the world still turns. Find what you like and keep doing it..If you don't like it, stop doing it. Shaving really is that simple.
- Thread starter
- #43
I think this is #15....and might ought to be #1: NEVER use your wife's favorite white towels for your shave because you just might find the hard way that you had a nick that you didn't see.
This thread should be a sticky. It's excellent advice.
- Thread starter
- #45
There's a lot of YMMV in the thread, but I appreciate your "sticky" recommend.
My advice is that you should control your razor - your razor should not control how you shave. So you need to start from the basics - blade gap and handle weight and length. I'll just deal with closed comb safety razors here of the generic Gillette/DE89 top plate designs.
1. Start with an adjustable like a Gillette Slim or Ming Shi Futur clone so you can try out different blade gaps and see which you like to shave with. When you have a good idea of what suits you, go to....
2. Try some 3 piece razors with the same M5 thread and swap handles so you get a good idea of the weight, length, diameter and feel you like. Gillette Techs are very light, like under 50g overall weight, designer SS razors are often over 100g. An "average" weight is 50-70g. Aluminium, Zamak and titanium are light but solid brass and SS are heavy unless hollowed out, so the material counts here.
3. Cut some shims. This is an old blade where you cut off the blade bit - the last 2mm - with some metal snips or a big scissors. Put one under the blade and try it out. Add more if you need to. If you have a common 0.68 gap razor like 34C or DE89 one shim will give you around 0.84. You may now be in a position to find the overall weight, the handle you like and the blade gap.
By going through these steps you can start to "design" the razor you want to shave with, rather than just taking pot luck buying razor after razor and ending up with quite a few on the shelf or up for sale. You may simply stop with an adjustable like the Gillette Slim or Merkur Progress and go no further if you like the weight and handle. Or you can buy a "system" like Karve or Rockwell with different plates. But with the Rockwell you're going over 100g and that isn't for everyone, though you can use different handles. They're both 10/30 like old Gillettes, not M5 so that also has to be considered. Some M5 handles fit the heads, some not so well. Fatips are M4.5 so you can't swap in M5 handles.
1. Start with an adjustable like a Gillette Slim or Ming Shi Futur clone so you can try out different blade gaps and see which you like to shave with. When you have a good idea of what suits you, go to....
2. Try some 3 piece razors with the same M5 thread and swap handles so you get a good idea of the weight, length, diameter and feel you like. Gillette Techs are very light, like under 50g overall weight, designer SS razors are often over 100g. An "average" weight is 50-70g. Aluminium, Zamak and titanium are light but solid brass and SS are heavy unless hollowed out, so the material counts here.
3. Cut some shims. This is an old blade where you cut off the blade bit - the last 2mm - with some metal snips or a big scissors. Put one under the blade and try it out. Add more if you need to. If you have a common 0.68 gap razor like 34C or DE89 one shim will give you around 0.84. You may now be in a position to find the overall weight, the handle you like and the blade gap.
By going through these steps you can start to "design" the razor you want to shave with, rather than just taking pot luck buying razor after razor and ending up with quite a few on the shelf or up for sale. You may simply stop with an adjustable like the Gillette Slim or Merkur Progress and go no further if you like the weight and handle. Or you can buy a "system" like Karve or Rockwell with different plates. But with the Rockwell you're going over 100g and that isn't for everyone, though you can use different handles. They're both 10/30 like old Gillettes, not M5 so that also has to be considered. Some M5 handles fit the heads, some not so well. Fatips are M4.5 so you can't swap in M5 handles.
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Nice post. But unlike many, I will disagree about blades.
My first blade was the Derby pack that came with my razor. I understand they have been re-invented, but this was years ago and the blades were way too dull for my beard. It was like pulling the hairs out. Staying with this poor-for-me blade for months would have been a huge mistake.
I'm all for finding a blade that will work with your face/beard/razor, but I don't know that there is a single blade that would be good for everyone. I would try a handful, pick the most comfortable and stick with that while you hone your technique.
My first blade was the Derby pack that came with my razor. I understand they have been re-invented, but this was years ago and the blades were way too dull for my beard. It was like pulling the hairs out. Staying with this poor-for-me blade for months would have been a huge mistake.
I'm all for finding a blade that will work with your face/beard/razor, but I don't know that there is a single blade that would be good for everyone. I would try a handful, pick the most comfortable and stick with that while you hone your technique.
- Thread starter
- #49
#16. If you buy a Merkur razor for your first DE shaver (doesn't matter which one) DON'T USE THE INCLUDED MERKUR BLADES FOR YOUR FIRST DE SHAVE! SO many guys on here did just that and rapidly grew a deep disdain for them. Most also bought either a blade sampler pack (which I wouldn't recommend...see the first post in this thread) or a large pack of a "medium popular" blade like Personna Blues or Astra SP blades and find that these blades are far smoother for newbies.
I understand Merkur including the blades, but I think they do themselves a disservice in a way. The blades ARE very sharp and last more shaves (for me) than Personnas or Astras do. It's just that that edge that comes from the factory is not the SMOOTHEST edge you'd like. For me, on shave 2, I notice a pronounced improvement from the first shave. This is true of several blades in my experience...shave 1 hones the edge slightly and shave 2 shows the improvement.
In spite of having a really bad impression of Merkur blades, after I bought a second one and had some real experience and technique development behind me, my impression was that the first shave wasn't as bad as I remembered and that shave 2 (in my 34-HD and in my E&J Kelivin) were greatly improved and very good shaves. They are SHARP and get the job done efficiently.
So...If you're hating those Merkur blades, I'll take 'em!
I understand Merkur including the blades, but I think they do themselves a disservice in a way. The blades ARE very sharp and last more shaves (for me) than Personnas or Astras do. It's just that that edge that comes from the factory is not the SMOOTHEST edge you'd like. For me, on shave 2, I notice a pronounced improvement from the first shave. This is true of several blades in my experience...shave 1 hones the edge slightly and shave 2 shows the improvement.
In spite of having a really bad impression of Merkur blades, after I bought a second one and had some real experience and technique development behind me, my impression was that the first shave wasn't as bad as I remembered and that shave 2 (in my 34-HD and in my E&J Kelivin) were greatly improved and very good shaves. They are SHARP and get the job done efficiently.
So...If you're hating those Merkur blades, I'll take 'em!
- Thread starter
- #50
#17 The Feather AS-D2 razor is a bit of an enigma. Beautiful in construction and with their blades, an incredible balance of sharpness and blade exposure. However, at least for me, the normal shaving technique might give you a really comfortable shave, but the closeness leaves a little to be desired. 5 o'clock shadow worse than with more aggressive razors.
I've come to the conclusion that the mild nature of the razor/blade system actually allows for more leeway in technique. I don't have to "let the weight of the razor" do the work. That actually doesn't work as well. With the Feather system, I can actually use it more like a store-bought Gillette or other razor that requires you to apply pressure to get the best shave.
I'm sure this is probably true of most mild razors or adjustables set to mild settings. But with this lesson learned, I'm much happier with the Feather AS-D2 than I was. It's a fantastic shaving system.
I've come to the conclusion that the mild nature of the razor/blade system actually allows for more leeway in technique. I don't have to "let the weight of the razor" do the work. That actually doesn't work as well. With the Feather system, I can actually use it more like a store-bought Gillette or other razor that requires you to apply pressure to get the best shave.
I'm sure this is probably true of most mild razors or adjustables set to mild settings. But with this lesson learned, I'm much happier with the Feather AS-D2 than I was. It's a fantastic shaving system.
Good topic revived.
I can see a lot of similarity in my 2 year of experience with DE shaving.
I can see a lot of similarity in my 2 year of experience with DE shaving.
