Above the Tie closed out their Windsor SE1 Satin stock for half price in December. I was fortunate to grab one before they were gone at a great discount. Once received I swapped out the stock handle (which is a nice handle) for the Razorock Titanium to reduce the overall weight of the razor and then polished the non-blade surfaces. Later I went back and polished the Windsor handle and got the same result. Now I have a Windsor SE1, polished, shiny and smooth. The SE1 and a Proline blade provide a great shave. Thanks, ATT for a great discount on a great razor.
Windsor SE1 from Satin to Polished
- Thread starter NoScrubs
- Start date
Wow. Well done. Do find any difference in the face feel? I find SE razors to stick to my face, due to the flat cap.
- Thread starter
- #3
I polished the SE1, my Karve Brass and my Timeless Ti. All of them have a much smoother glide.
Wow, I love my Karve but really love high polish. Great work, anyone want to do a short list of the steps. The Timeless ti is on my short list after my sabbatical.
Would you be kind enough to list procedure used to obtain the results you did? They look great!
Noscrubs talks about his materials here. Polishing a brass Karve. - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/polishing-a-brass-karve.580297/post-10519136. I've youtubed it and it looks like the compounds can be used with a dremel tool if you don't have a bench wheel.
I am more interested in polishing my Windsor Stainless SE1.
- Thread starter
- #8
Ok... You will find several different methods that B&B members have used and they all work, the following is how I get to a polished finish on modern and vintage razors:
I start with a super clean razor (a soft toothbrush, Q-tips, dish soap, soak if needed on an old razor).
Tools: Dremel with wool and cotton polishing wheels, Enkay polishing compounds, Flitz or Maas, Maas Metal Protector, Cape Code Polishing Cloths, and Microcrystalline, pointed Q-Tips, and MicroFiber (soft) towels.
I start with the black compound and a wool polishing wheel. I use a slow speed so that the razor part that I am polishing does not get hot and I am not creating an uneven finish. Next, I complete the same process with the white, then green and finish with the red compound (I add the green compound for stainless only). The razor part then gets a good dish soap wash and if the handle is knurled a soft toothbrush works great to clean the crevices in the handle.
Depending on my results I will apply Maas or Flitz and use a microfiber towel for a final polish. Once I have the result that I am satisfied with I buff by hand with the Maas Metal Protector and then with the Dremel and a cotton wheel.
My brass razors get a very, very light coat of Microcrystalline to discourage patina.
The Cape Cod polishing cloths are an easy "bring back the glitz and shine" between shaves (not necessary I just happen to have had them around, a light application Maas polish works well also).
I can clean and polish an entire razor in about 45 minutes.
This polishing process also works well on an abused vintage. The razor below was in bad shape (looked like a dumpster dive) when I picked it up. The Gillette Otto Roth looks good now.
Also when I pick up an abused vintage razor it gets a soft toothbrush with a baking soda and white vinegar scrub after a good cleaning.
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One tip I have for hand polishing is to use a microfibre pad. It is, effectively, a foam pad with a microfibre cloth sewn around it. It allows for more pressure to be used than a standard cloth and this helps to break the polishing abrasives down more effectively.
It's quicker than a standard cloth and gives a much better finish. It is, of course, not as good as a dremel or bench polisher but does a pretty good job at a fraction of the cost.
It's quicker than a standard cloth and gives a much better finish. It is, of course, not as good as a dremel or bench polisher but does a pretty good job at a fraction of the cost.
- Thread starter
- #10
I like it. There are times when you just need some Flitz or polish for a good clean up and the pad would be quicker and easier than the Dremel. Thanks.
Very cool. Thanks for posting that!
Looks delicious
!I wonder if the machine finish on blackland sabres can be polished this well. It's on my to try list.
Definitely can. You can pretty easily shine it up while keeping the tool markings visible which is a great look. To fully mirror polish it and remove the markings is a much more involved process that I don't recommend unless you have at least a little experience and access to a proper buffing machine.
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