and I suspect you'd need to unpin them to polish out the black remnants of the converted rust if you were going to do those a more complete restore.
I personally would unpin them. and yeah, with a set, I'd be sending them out for that job, so I don't ruin the scales. yeah, I understand the x7 expense too. they look worth it from an investment standpoint if you can wait to recoup the costs/profit.
I'f you want to keep it all original, including the pin, there is no quick and easy way to clean the steel around the pivot. You just need to get in there with wet/dry paper and sand as best you can, and be content that there will still be some dark marks when you are finished.
That is OK on antique razors, IMO. I just call it patina. As long as all the red active rust is gone, the rest is cosmetic.
Yea, don’t use any of the chemical rust cleaners like Evapo-rust or vinegar. You could and should soak in mineral oil to rehydrate the Ivory after the active rust has been removed, you can soak the whole razor or just brush on and store in a ziploc bag over night then wipe down well.
Those are not that bad, a Scotch-Brite Radial Bristle Disc will get them pretty clean and polished if used with care, slow speed and in the proper progression. It will get everything except under the thrust washer and you can get between the washer and tang with strips of lapping film.
Hot tip, get a flexshaft for the Dremel for way more control, they are not expensive, ($15) neither are the Radial Disc, a full progression set is under $20 and each disc last a long time. You can gang them up to make a wider brush, but a single or a double work well between the scales, great for cleaning jimps and that corner where the blade meets the tang at 90 degrees.