Why X strokes?

[Jakebullet]

I have only 3 abrasives. An acrylic block with lapping films, a Naniwa 12k and a little piece of Welsh slate.
The slate is small so I have to do X strokes on that one, but the other two are large enough that I could hone the whole edge pretty easily With no X stroke.
I’ve seen many videos on YouTube of people honing with x strokes and it seems that for part of each stroke the toe leaves the stone and for the other part of the stroke the heel leaves the stone. The middle of the blade never leaves the stone. Over many hones wouldn’t this X style remove more metal from the middle than the ends making a frown? I’m sure I’m missing something so I ask why use X strokes if the stone is large?

 

[Tanuki]

An x stroke does not have to roll, and should not if the edge is straight. An x stroke does change the angle of the scratch pattern. If there isn't stabilizer interference, I suppose x stokes could be alternated for an x scratch pattern.

 

[Njguy1977]

Think about the surface area, if the stone you are using is half the width of a straight razor blade length and you do an x stroke pattern properly, your honing the same amount of edge area with each edge stroke across the entire blade. The only thing you have to be careful of is keeping the pressure even with each simultaneous push and pull and keeping the blade edge on the stone.

Larry

 

[RayClem]

If your hone is a wide as your razor is long, then you do not have to do x-strokes. Some people do what is called axe strokes. However, the problem is that your hone may not be absolutely flat and your blade might not be absolutely straight. Remember we are taking about an edge that needs to be refined to micron and even submicron levels. By doing a variety of axe strokes, circles, and x-strokes, you insure that the the various spots along the edge of the blade contact a variety of spots along the surface of the hone. That gives you the greatest chance of insuring a sharp edge along the entire shaving length of the blade.

 

[rbscebu]

I am of the same thinking as @Jakebullet. All my current honing surfaces are about 75mm wide which is enough for me to do straight honing, and I do.

I have found however that about a dozen short X strokes at the finish of my honing progression give me a more comfortable shave. I am putting this down to the scratch pattern then left on the bevel. Because those X strokes are so light and on a very fine honing surface, I expect that no change in the edge profile will be visible within the first 36,525 shaves.

 

[ajduplessis]

Your honing should include more that just x-strokes, no matter the hone width...

 

[rbscebu]

Your honing should include more that just x-strokes, no matter the hone width...

It does. When bevel setting, I hone many different ways. Once set my honing progresses with just straight up and down (with occasional pull) strokes until I come to the finish. It s then and only then that I do my short X strokes.

 

[ajduplessis]

It does. When bevel setting, I hone many different ways. Once set my honing progresses with just straight up and down (with occasional pull) strokes until I come to the finish. It s then and only then that I do my short X strokes.

Was not directed at you . I should have quoted the OP, my apology Yes your routine is exactly my point

 

[Njguy1977]

My usual strokes for honing usually starts out with 20 circles each side , 20 back and forth buffing each side, 40 "x" strokes, and then 20 "X" strokes under running water with just weight of the razor. For me on natural stones this seems to work out best. YMMV and each stone will give different results. If I'm going for a bevel reset then I do back and forth on lapping film using full width of the blade as contact area.

Larry

 

[global_dev]

I love x strokes. I don’t particularly enjoy 3” wide hones. I think the distribution of the edge contact isnt an issue on the narrower hones and ive watched it a bunch to ascertain contact is more or less even.

related to this issue is that i also hone often in zones of the edge, working a 3rd then the last 3rd and making sure i have a couple transition bigger strokes between the zones. I adjust pressure/time accordingly based on feedback.

 

[lightfoot]

If you want angled striations coupled with the simplicity of straight-across the stone honing then you can hone with the heel a little forward. This way you get the angled striations while the entire bevel stays on the stone.

 

[Gamma]

X strokes reduce the incidence of edge distractions like burrs and foils that can arise from other stroke types, like the 1/2 stroke. they kind of 'shear' micro burrs off the apex.
Plus, because stones and blades never have perfect geometry, using an x stroke attenuates the hurdles those imperfections can add to the equation.
Imagine a 3" wide stone that is 'essentially' flat but has a slight dip in the middle that is parallel to the long sides.
If you are only moving the blade parallel to the sides, there are parts of the blade that won't hit the stone.
But if you introduce the x stroke, you will abrade the steel from heel to toe.
X strokes can also help keep stones flatter longer by distributing wear more evenly.
Certainly, edges can be created other ways, but the x stroke has always been taught as a very efficient stroke. It's a flexible/versatile technique too, rolling x, heel forward x, rolling heel forward x, reverse x, and so on.
I've not seen x-strokes creating frowns. I've seen bad x-stroke technique cause excessive toe wear though. Have also seen plenty of frowns from not-flat stones, bad geometry blades, and misuse of pressure, or any/all of the above.

 

[bluesman 7]

Imagine a 3" wide stone that is 'essentially' flat but has a slight dip in the middle that is parallel to the long sides.
If you are only moving the blade parallel to the sides, there are parts of the blade that won't hit the stone.
But if you introduce the x stroke, you will abrade the steel from heel to toe.

Also imagine a stone with a slight dish or crown over the long dimension . Now look at what happens with a heel leading position. Same same.

 

[Alum of Potash]

For me it has to do with aggressiveness versus fineness of the honing agent. The more aggressive it is, the more inclined I'm to use an up-and-down pass (biassed along the y-axis). The finer it is, the more I'm inclined to use a sideways pass (biassed along the x-axis).