why not engine oil?

Discussion in 'Hones/Honing' started by kohalajohn, May 9, 2019.

    That's a huge paint brush you've got there.
  1. ?
  2. If you go on firearm forums they have motor oil threads there too haha.
  3. When earlier you said "Vegetable oils are also very unhealthy if consumed". I meant you we're painting with a broad brush by summarily lumping ALL vegetable oils equal and unhealthy.

    I think many tout the benefits of Olive Oil, Coconut oil, Flax seed oil. Not all vegetable oils are very unhealthy.

    For cooking though, I'm happy to use Ghee, lard, bacon grease, olive oil and others depending on what I'm cooking.
  4. Ah, yes a tad broad, those you mention as healthy are indeed so. I was referring to industrial seed oils misnamed as vegetable oil - canola, corn, soybean etc as they are heat and chemical processes and result in extreme omega six. Avacado is good as well. I am, at this moment deep frying chicken in lard. I use Ghee, Olive and Coconut and avocado as well. Basically I live on fat. Wow, sorry about taking this thread off track.
  5. I'm as guilty as anyone, probably more so of making this into a tangent.
  6. True story, since we’re derailing pretty hard... I don’t own any AI tools, but I’ve got some from the other brands there and I always go back to Arkansas stones and homemade slips of wood smeared with JNAT slurry. You and I are definitely not the target audience for a convexed razor hone.
  7. I have Dastra, Henry Taylor, Pfeil, Stubai for the most part and a few other strays in the mix. I usually sharpen with oil stones, but have a BBW as well and some slip stones too. Here is a relief carving I did last year. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZurRQoqiLPih2ke27

    Still learning. My passion is artistic type carvings like you'd see in churches, old gov't building, homes of the very wealthy, etc.
  8. Dcaddo

    Dcaddo Moderator Emeritus

    Tell me more please. You’re stropping tools on wood with Jnat slurry?
  9. Wow man that’s a nice piece! You could tell me it came from the Hay cabinet shop and I’d buy it! I’m a scrub by comparison, I just use them for curved furniture work. I only really got into woodworking because I can’t afford the classic mid century studio furniture.
  10. Yeah it’s free friable silicate abrasive, why would you not?

    I just grab dimensionally stable consistent density hardwood, shape it using the tool you want to use or something slightly smaller or larger radius depending on if you’re stropping inside or outside the curve, then slap on the slurry and let it dry.

    My favorite is a straight grained section of either mesquite or pear, but those might be unobtanium for a lot of the world. Cherry would be the easiest commercially sourced wood.
  11. Dcaddo

    Dcaddo Moderator Emeritus

    Interesting, I'll have to give this a try sometime on my knives. Thanks for the info.
  12. Another material to strop with that most don't use, silicon carbide. As it embeds in leather it cuts much finer than the grit would indicate. I strop my wood carving tools with 400 and 600 grit. The 600 gives a nice shine compared to what 600 grit sandpaper would do. It wouldn't be what you want for a straight razor, but you could try a much finer silicon carbide grit such as 1200 grit.

    I have tried dried belgian blue whetstone slurry and coticule slurry on leather and for some reason they seem to cut larger than they should. I would have thought they'd be great, but meh. I have no jnats so nothing to try there.

    One nice thing about the silicon carbide is that because it is so high on the mohs scale (9.5) it cuts quicker than aluminum oxide and I like it better for stropping except it's a bit messier. You need to work some oil into the leather so the silicon carbide doesn't go airborne on you.
  13. Thank you. I'm learning. I'd like to learn to make furniture, but no real room for the tools/machines I'd want. I like carving by hand, but I have no desire to replicate Colonial Williamsburg for the rest of my workworking, I'd prefer electricity for that. I do appreciate the skill it takes.
  14. DA5C58CF-2950-4A9E-9669-872136CAF500.jpeg

    This is part of the Ark family, but bottom right corner is a random chunk of 6-8ish oz. leather covered in JNAT slurry too. So I guess even my Ark finished, softer tempered tools are still sort of JNAT finished...

    Another interesting tid bit is up and to the right of the vintage oil can is a chunk of live oak or post oak off an industrial shipping pallet that serves as an anvil. You can see the closest corner is rounded over for “tapping out” the urasuki on laminated steel Japanese tools. It’s got a bunch of tiny divots in the top from peening razor pins, but its proven plenty tough to get it done. Worst case I divot it to crap and saw off 1/8” and start over, but I’ve only done that once so far in a few years use. Also never had a super hard tempered tool steel hagane crack tapping out yet, knock on wood. Everyone I know who has an actual anvil has suffered at least one tragedy.
  15. I’d love some machines too haha! Right now I just do everything by hand and take forever. It’s far from cost effective.

    You should check out the most recent Hay shop carved Mahogany table by bill pavlak. It’s one solid board somewhere around 36” wide with no easily spotted slips or mistakes anywhere on it. Mind blowing.
  16. Straight grained red spruce might be the ticket
  17. Negative spruce/pine/fir woods all vary greatly in density/hardness/porosity across the rings quite a bit. The result will be accelerated wear of the early wood while the late wood holds up for a while making ridges and valleys in your strop. Same thing happens over many years with spruce handles or spruce floor boards. The magic of certain fruit and nut trees is a high janka hardness combined with a very even density and nearly zero porosity outside of end grain. Pear is my favorite, but not super common where I am. Beech or maple work pretty well too and are sold in most of North America.

    I have high hopes for my recently made mesquite slips because it’s about double the janka hardness of white oak or hard maple, and probably the most dimensionally stable hardwood in North America. Heathens around here try to burn it all for BBQ but that’s not the best use.

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