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Why are good brushes so $

OK, I don't really know what a good brush is since I've only used VDH and a $10 Vulfix boar. I am happy with the VDH, the Vulfix is not broke in yet to say. Anyway, what makes a $100 + brush better?
 
I'll give you my 2 cents. The material used for the handle can be a factor (ebony, cocobolo wood, olive wood); but I think it's the choice of badger hair. A brush that's not too soft but not too scratchy, packed with enough hair to make it dense, and well put together so it does not shed. Also, a brand that will stand behind their product and give you a replacement should the brush be defective.

But probably the biggest reason is marketing, and the fact that most are made overseas which incurs more overhead.
 
Here we go again.

Is a Mercedes better than a Toyota ?
Is a Kiton suit better than a Boss suit ?
Is a Boss suit better than an H&M suit ?
Is Samuel Adams beer better than Budweiser ?
Is a well made home made hamburger better than a BigMac ?

I think you know the answer........YMMV IMHO
 
Here we go again.

Is a Mercedes better than a Toyota ?
Is a Kiton suit better than a Boss suit ?
Is a Boss suit better than an H&M suit ?
Is Samuel Adams beer better than Budweiser ?
Is a well made home made hamburger better than a BigMac ?

I think you know the answer........YMMV IMHO

Of course. And the answers will all depend on whether the poster owns the Mercedes or the Toyota or drinks Sam Adams or Bud. I think they are worth it because I greatly prefer badger to boar, and specifically the higher hair grades. They are generally very well made and they hold their value. But I guess I am just falling for all the hype and marketing.
 
I just got a Simpson Commodore x3 and in comparison with my restores, the Simpson is better, but not by much. I love the feel of the solid resin handle but as far as the knot goes, it's quality stuff. But the knots one can get from TGN are extremely close if not just as good. So get an old brush, restore it with a 45 - 50mm loft with a best badger or better and you'll have one awesome brush.
 
You can get good brushes at a variety of price points. I got a very good/excellent brush for $25.50, the H.I.S. synthetic brush. It probably the softest brush I own.

I also have a great brush in my Simpson Polo 8 Manchurian at $250. It has a large handle which I like and lots of backbone with just a touch of scritch. It just depends on what you like. I'm sure people can be happy with a brush under $50 but that doesn't mean that people with brushes over $50 are fools.
 
Is the VDH the badger version? The VDH and Shea Moisture badgers are floppy - very little backbone due to high loft. The pure badger is a lower end badger which is scratchier than "best" or "super". So the floppy brushes will be better with creams than soaps but still plenty good. The floppy brushes will be better with bowl lathering rather than face lathering. If you get a quality badger brush, it will be dense, soft, and retain a lot of moisture and heat. It will be almost like a pet :thumbup:. Yes, good brushes exist in the under $30 but if you try sight unseen and have not handled a known good brush like a Simpson Duke, then you may not get what you bargained for. The floppies can still generate huge lather.

For hog brushes, your Vulfix may be the belle of the ball. Keep breaking it in. You may be lucky and end up being partial to boars over badgers anyway. Lather it regularly and often - even if it's not in the rotation for that day. It will reward you.
 
In my opinion, the better brushes are worth the money. I've got some fantastic Semogue boars that cost less than $20. If I didn't own one high-end badger brush, I would be perfectly content to use my Semogues. They are all great brushes.

With that said, the face feel with the Semogues is fairly uniform. That is not the case with my badger brushes; they all feel different. If you use a Rooney 2XL and then use a Thater 2 band, you will see exactly what I mean. Boar doesn't provide the same combination of performance and variety of face feel as badger does. Whether it is worth it to you, is something only you can answer. It is worth it to me.
 
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Well, there are good brushes which will do the job and there are expensive brushes which will do the job but use more expensive materials ( not necessarily at the business end) but do not add anything to the purpose. It is the rule of diminishing returns. There are so many choices out there you just need to find one that fits in with your needs and price range.
 
OK, I don't really know what a good brush is since I've only used VDH and a $10 Vulfix boar. I am happy with the VDH, the Vulfix is not broke in yet to say. Anyway, what makes a $100 + brush better?

Short answer .... Nothing. There is a tremendous amount of markup along the supply chain. A simple look at any manufacturers brushes with same handle material and same grade hair and compare by weight. A brush weighing 80g will be 75% more than a brush that weighs 60g. A 30% increase in materials translates to a 75% price increase. Personally if you find a brush you like , chasing after more expensive ones are not going to get you a better shave.
 
Than that settles it; we should start shaving with live badgers.

Apologies, but this just begs for a posting of the Frank Zappa album cover. :biggrin1:
 

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I think it depends a lot on your particular ADs. I will gladly pay outrageous prices for an all stainless razor, but will not pay more than about $70 for a brush. I had hig789 do some very nice restores with WhippedDog knots, and found out I prefer black and best badger over Silvertip. SWMBO got me a nice T&H best for my birthday, and the only brushes I want now are the other two in the line (I have the Moonjava and want the Lava and Woodstock). Larry at WhippedDog has some great affordable offerings in different hair grades you can try before you pay $250 for a Silvertip only to find out you like best or boar better. It really is YMMV.
 
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