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Who was "the" luxury straight razor manufacturer back in the day?

Seems as though there were numerous makers of razors between 1800-1900 give or take a few years. Who was considered the "luxury" maker? Were ivory scales only for the elite? Did royal warrants increase the price and status of items back then more than they do today?
 
This is just one man’s opinion, but I believe there were quite a few brands that produced a high end model for the wealthy. You could say the Heljestrand MK29-33 would have been luxurious back in the day for Sweden. In Germany I’d say ERN would be a likely candidate as a luxury maker, but there were many small houses that would have produced luxury razors. The same goes for Sheffield blade makers, W&B, Fredrick Reynolds’s, Joseph Allen, F Fenny, Greaves etc, all would have higher end models. We can’t forget about the French manufacturing sector, they produced some amazing blades too! I’m sure someone like @Mango could tell us the very best!


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I think Sheffield in general would be top of list. Most of the 7 day sets I've seen are ivory scaled. I'm a happy owner of a set. I have a German 7 day set as well but not as old and no ivory. I do have a couple of German covered tang and scales in ivory. I'm sure each maker had a luxury model to sell. Oh and Sweden must have just loved using ivory. Good luck on your search for an answer. I just wanted to jump in and give my opinion.
 
I'd guess that each maker had deluxe razors and basic models. The Torrey razors like the Our 136 shoulderless fit into the deluxe model for me.
 
Hmm this is a tough one I would say it would be a tie they all made "luxury" razors in the days, but I would have thought Sheffield was only a margin in the lead followed by Sweden, then Germany. Then the tables turned with a lot of makers in Sheffield closing down shop, but this is now a tough call a very tough one. I would say Germany followed by Sweden oh forget it they all make stunning razors with the age of the internet, and custom orders
 
Utility, I would think was first and foremost. Like asking if there were luxury pocket knives, pistols, and chef knives in the 1800's.

I know my grandfather gravitated toward certain tool brands because they had a good reputation for lasting and holding up. He liked Plumb, Boker, Case, Ridged, Crescent, etc.
 
I'd guess that each maker had deluxe razors and basic models.

Yes and often 'pick of the crop'/deluxe razors from Sheffield were supplied to central London luxury retailers like Drew Piccadilly, Deane Sloane Street, Asprey Bond Street (ivory scales, precious wood boxes/gentlemen's travel kits and frequently with only the store name indicated). I'd guess the same for central Paris (Galeries Lafayette) from Thiers, and Berlin (KaDeWe) from Solingen.
 
Yes and often 'pick of the crop'/deluxe razors from Sheffield were supplied to central London luxury retailers like Drew Piccadilly, Deane Sloane Street, Asprey Bond Street (ivory scales, precious wood boxes/gentlemen's travel kits and frequently with only the store name indicated). I'd guess the same for central Paris (Galeries Lafayette) from Thiers, and Berlin (KaDeWe) from Solingen.

Okay, kind of like a boxed set of screw drivers....LOL!!
 
I am reading a doctorial thesis regarding Sheffield cutlery industries from the early 1800's to 1914.
"A further type of specialism was the distinction between high
quality, expensive items, and lower quality commoner goods, a
distinction which applied equally to the producers of the two
di fferent classes of cutlery. The divisions between skilled and
unskilled workmen, craftsmen and labourers, noble and ignoble
artisans, were old and deep."
 
Yes and often 'pick of the crop'/deluxe razors from Sheffield were supplied to central London luxury retailers like Drew Piccadilly, Deane Sloane Street, Asprey Bond Street (ivory scales, precious wood boxes/gentlemen's travel kits and frequently with only the store name indicated). I'd guess the same for central Paris (Galeries Lafayette) from Thiers, and Berlin (KaDeWe) from Solingen.

Did these retailers go to any particular cutler or would just randomly select one that met their standards?
 
Did these retailers go to any particular cutler or would just randomly select one that met their standards?

Have no information and would love to know too! Again pure guessing, in the UK cutlers with a royal warrant (e.g. Joseph Rodgers, "Cutlers to Their Majesties") might have had an advantage as far as getting on to the short lists was concerned :).
 

AimlessWanderer

Remember to forget me!
I can't speak for other areas, but in Sheffield there were the well known cutlery factories, plus a myriad of Little Mesters, which today we would recognise as artisan makers. From what I can gather, brands carried less weight than they do today, and people were more loyal to their retailers than to brands. There was also a lot of sub-contracting taking place, with various companies and individuals making blanks or doing various processing for each other, depending on who was busy and who wasn't.

People had their preferred retailers, and retailers had their preferred suppliers. These would change as time went by. There wasn't the scope for individuals to buy any model from any brand like there is with the internet today. You either bought what your shop had in stock, or you placed a custom order, and got something made to your specifications. Most likely you'd look through the razors on sale in the shop, and find the nicest that you could afford, irrespective of who made it. The name stamped in it was less relevant than the looks of the razor and what the scales were made of.
 
This is just one man’s opinion, but I believe there were quite a few brands that produced a high end model for the wealthy. You could say the Heljestrand MK29-33 would have been luxurious back in the day for Sweden. In Germany I’d say ERN would be a likely candidate as a luxury maker, but there were many small houses that would have produced luxury razors. The same goes for Sheffield blade makers, W&B, Fredrick Reynolds’s, Joseph Allen, F Fenny, Greaves etc, all would have higher end models. We can’t forget about the French manufacturing sector, they produced some amazing blades too! I’m sure someone like @Mango could tell us the very best!


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Hi all

A straight was a tool and as such it had to be treated well to please it’s possessor. Competition was tough, more than 300 families worked in Solingen (..blades, scales etc.. ) and yes they would position their product through different segment, high end included.
Some german examples :
Puma gold, Bohler Stahl Dreifuss Gold, Bambola magnesium, Mauser 7/8, Globus Gold, Dorko 1151...

The French did the same with specific models they usually named “hors concours” which were produced to celebrate an event or exhibition. They also produced high end razors like M. Chanudet, P, Fritisse (Fortunatus), Essercheroup, Vauzy à l’ Eglise
Etc...

The Spanish had Cefiro, Filarmonica EPBD

Just to mention a few ... but we love them
All don’t we...?
 
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I can't speak for other areas, but in Sheffield there were the well known cutlery factories, plus a myriad of Little Mesters, which today we would recognise as artisan makers. From what I can gather, brands carried less weight than they do today, and people were more loyal to their retailers than to brands. There was also a lot of sub-contracting taking place, with various companies and individuals making blanks or doing various processing for each other, depending on who was busy and who wasn't.

People had their preferred retailers, and retailers had their preferred suppliers. These would change as time went by. There wasn't the scope for individuals to buy any model from any brand like there is with the internet today. You either bought what your shop had in stock, or you placed a custom order, and got something made to your specifications. Most likely you'd look through the razors on sale in the shop, and find the nicest that you could afford, irrespective of who made it. The name stamped in it was less relevant than the looks of the razor and what the scales were made of.

Great info thanks and when one looks at old Kindal/Heljestrand catalogs, the luxury level (and price) is determined solely by the scale material: tier one were real turtle and mother of pearl; then real ivory; and finally Bakelite/plastic.


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I have a few Lecoultre (including 2 in Ivory, of which one was part of a 7-day set) which I think fit well the description. Like opening an iPhone, it started with a luxurious box, with neatly package spare blade and a special screwdriver to fit them.
 
Tortoise shell was more expensive than ivory? I would think ivory was the most luxurious material. I guess tortoise was that much rarer
 

steveclarkus

Goose Poop Connoisseur
A tortoise is a pretty small creature compared to elephant tusks and I imagine much less plentiful. I can remember ivory on silverware and piano keys and other items. Definitely upscale but not rare. I recently saw a photo of Wostenholm’s storage rooms full of tons of tusks and horn. I expect ivory to Bakelite was like Brooks Brothers to Men’s Warehouse.
 
Sea turtle not tortoise. Also used in eye glass frames, the pale/translucent scales commanded an extra premium over the darker brown ones.
 
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