- Thread starter
- #41
I will check those out...thanks
When to buy a new car?
- Thread starter Shantytownbrown
- Start date
I will check those out...thanks
The best pricing on them in the US is though a Subaru dealer in New Hampshire... Let me dig around and get their contact info for you.
It is a simple swap and one that you can do yourself if you want to but if the dealer you are getting your new car from will put them on for you that is even better as they will more than likely do it at no charge if you let them have the new factory ones after the swap.
EDIT:
It is Exeter Subaru. They wholesale Subaru parts so are a good place to keep in mind.
They don't seem to have the current model outback White Line listed but you can give them a shout. They are very helpful, well known and respected in the Subaru world when it comes to custom and performance parts
http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/...dSupplier=0&withStock=&IDBrand=0&order=3&SKU=
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- Thread starter
- #43
great, thanks! whiteline has two dealers in connecticut north of me, not far from where my parents are in Mass...will ask my dealer what he knows of them, and if we can make it part of the deal if available on the 2013 model...
i didnt check pricing yet, what should i expect to pay?
It should run in the $200 per bar range (front and/or rear).
It will not change the ride characteristics of the vehicle. It will just make it become glued to the road on corners or in emergency maneuvers.
I should mention that you don't need to get the adjustable ones as you won't be making any changes in handling once they are on. Try to get ones that are preset. You don't need the full blown racing models, just the extra control that they will provide.
I put a set on my Subaru Outback and it was the single best improvement I could have made. Before they were on it wallowed in the corners and was almost uncontrollable (felt like it would roll over with the slightest movement of the wheel). Now when someone tailgates me I accelerate through the turns and watch them throw up dust when they leave the paved road surface when trying to follow me. Just make sure you keep your tires properly inflated as you don't want one to roll off the rim when you are having too much fun
You will get used to the way it handles and really enjoy driving.
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- Thread starter
- #45
not bad
i like the idea of that..!
you are right, not listed for the 2010-2013 Outbacks, will call in AM...
guess I can add them later on when they become available
I have a 2006 Outback 2.5i and it really is a great car. The only thing I'd recommend, if you travel the Merritt Parkway often, with its short to non-existent on-ramps, is to look at a turbo or six cylinder. The 4 cylinder is not very quick off the starting line.
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- Thread starter
- #47
only occasionally on the Merritt...dont need it for work, just up and down Route 7...only time on Merrit is to and from monthly meetings in Wallingford
- Thread starter
- #48
Signed for the Outback today after work...! If anyone is interested I will post a pic or two when I take delivery this weekend...!
I think I got the best deal I could (i hope anyway, but who will ever know)
White with Saddle brown leather interior...
I think I got the best deal I could (i hope anyway, but who will ever know)
White with Saddle brown leather interior...
- Thread starter
- #50
http://www.subaru.com/vehicles/outback/index.html#tab_3
2.5i limited CVT with "Special Appearance" Package, has faux wood interior trim, nav, all weather package, turn signals on heated side mirrors, special bumper trim, fog lights and its the only model with the Saddle Brown Leather, only came in White or Black (Brown was unavailable) my last car was black, so I wanted different
With auto dealers practically giving away vehicles and car and truck buyers getting approved for historically low- and even no-interest car loans, a shiny new set of wheels might look awfully tempting these days. Like all other aspects of the new car buying experience, timing is everything. Waiting for the right time to buy could save you just as much as haggling over the invoice price. Let timing work for you and wait for the dealer to feel the pressure of unloading his inventory.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Fix your suspension first. Bad suspension will cause all sorts of other problems plus a catastrophic failure would be, well, catastrophic.
Watch for sales on tires. Be an opportunistic buyer. Don't get baited and switched, either. Same with brake jobs. Often you will see brake servicing specials from the bigger garages.
Are you carrying full comprehensive insurance? Myself, I don't see much point in fully insuring a vehicle over 10 years old. I currently only carry the legal minimum liability coverage on my 2004 Ranger. The savings are worth it particularly if you are a very defensive driver and park in a safe place. In fact, I generally drop comprehensive coverage as soon as a vehicle is paid off.
+1 on saving for the next vehicle. BE SURE that there is no early payment penalty in the financing. Watch out for the crazy up-front add-ons. Extended warrantys etc are usually pretty bad deals. Finance setup fees, signing fees, freight or transportation fees, all these other add-ons are usually just ways to weedle more dough out of you after negotiating the price. Once you get a price, that's the price. And shop around. But yeah have at least half the purchase price saved, if at all possible, before you find yourself needing to buy. Once you have the full amount, buy at your convenience. Trade-ins can be a good deal or a bad deal. Most dealers in spite of the old line about how they make their money on the buyer of the trade-in when they sell it, are going to get a bite out of you on it one way or the other. Consider simply hanging on to your old vehicle as a backup, or doing a private sale. Costco sounds like a great option and bargaining tool.
I have been thinking about buying an E-150 van to replace my 10 year old Ranger pickup, but the old truck has given me ZERO mechanical problems so far. All I have done is replaced the tires, (After Katrina I was getting at least one nail or screw a week for the first 6 months and they got FULL of plugs) the battery, and the winshield wipers. So yeah I would like a van so I could turn it into a poor man's RV, but I have a topper on the Ranger and can at least sleep in it when necessary, and it still runs great with practically zero maintenance other than routine oil changes, etc. I am still on the same plugs! The electronics do a great job, fuel injection works flawlessly, pulled plugs show only a slight very dark gray deposit and no erosion, emission stuff has caused no problems, no leaks or creaks, and I just don't have justification to get rid of it except a desire to have a van. So I will probably keep it for another 5-10 years. Manual transmission so no transmission rebuild needed, though I might need some TLC for the clutch at some point. AC works great but I have manual windows so I don't have to worry about the AC failing just when the window motors go out. Heater never gets used hardly but it works great and no leaks. These new Fords are not the "Fix Or Repair Daily" cars of the 80's. Plus they wouldn't take the bailout money like GM et al. Got to respect that. So having said that, take a close look at Ford's offerings before you pull the trigger.
If I was in your position I would keep what you got, fix it according to a well thought timetable, go cheap (within reason) on repairs and insurance, save money for a new vehicle, and buy when the time seems right. Don't mention the possibility of cash payment or anything like that. Don't sign anything at the dealership. Take stuff home and READ it, and get a second opinion from a trusted friend or better yet a lawyer if it won't cost much more than lunch to have him look the contract over. If they refuse to let you mull it over at home, walk out. Don't let them pressure you into a quick sale. Shop around and let them know that you are doing so. Yes they will hate you for that. That's okay. You aren't there to make a new friend but to make a very large and important purchase. Don't be shy about asking to talk with the manager or another salesperson if the one you get seems too aggro. And remember your best bargaining tool is your feet. (a smartphone can be handy, too)
Watch for sales on tires. Be an opportunistic buyer. Don't get baited and switched, either. Same with brake jobs. Often you will see brake servicing specials from the bigger garages.
Are you carrying full comprehensive insurance? Myself, I don't see much point in fully insuring a vehicle over 10 years old. I currently only carry the legal minimum liability coverage on my 2004 Ranger. The savings are worth it particularly if you are a very defensive driver and park in a safe place. In fact, I generally drop comprehensive coverage as soon as a vehicle is paid off.
+1 on saving for the next vehicle. BE SURE that there is no early payment penalty in the financing. Watch out for the crazy up-front add-ons. Extended warrantys etc are usually pretty bad deals. Finance setup fees, signing fees, freight or transportation fees, all these other add-ons are usually just ways to weedle more dough out of you after negotiating the price. Once you get a price, that's the price. And shop around. But yeah have at least half the purchase price saved, if at all possible, before you find yourself needing to buy. Once you have the full amount, buy at your convenience. Trade-ins can be a good deal or a bad deal. Most dealers in spite of the old line about how they make their money on the buyer of the trade-in when they sell it, are going to get a bite out of you on it one way or the other. Consider simply hanging on to your old vehicle as a backup, or doing a private sale. Costco sounds like a great option and bargaining tool.
I have been thinking about buying an E-150 van to replace my 10 year old Ranger pickup, but the old truck has given me ZERO mechanical problems so far. All I have done is replaced the tires, (After Katrina I was getting at least one nail or screw a week for the first 6 months and they got FULL of plugs) the battery, and the winshield wipers. So yeah I would like a van so I could turn it into a poor man's RV, but I have a topper on the Ranger and can at least sleep in it when necessary, and it still runs great with practically zero maintenance other than routine oil changes, etc. I am still on the same plugs! The electronics do a great job, fuel injection works flawlessly, pulled plugs show only a slight very dark gray deposit and no erosion, emission stuff has caused no problems, no leaks or creaks, and I just don't have justification to get rid of it except a desire to have a van. So I will probably keep it for another 5-10 years. Manual transmission so no transmission rebuild needed, though I might need some TLC for the clutch at some point. AC works great but I have manual windows so I don't have to worry about the AC failing just when the window motors go out. Heater never gets used hardly but it works great and no leaks. These new Fords are not the "Fix Or Repair Daily" cars of the 80's. Plus they wouldn't take the bailout money like GM et al. Got to respect that. So having said that, take a close look at Ford's offerings before you pull the trigger.
If I was in your position I would keep what you got, fix it according to a well thought timetable, go cheap (within reason) on repairs and insurance, save money for a new vehicle, and buy when the time seems right. Don't mention the possibility of cash payment or anything like that. Don't sign anything at the dealership. Take stuff home and READ it, and get a second opinion from a trusted friend or better yet a lawyer if it won't cost much more than lunch to have him look the contract over. If they refuse to let you mull it over at home, walk out. Don't let them pressure you into a quick sale. Shop around and let them know that you are doing so. Yes they will hate you for that. That's okay. You aren't there to make a new friend but to make a very large and important purchase. Don't be shy about asking to talk with the manager or another salesperson if the one you get seems too aggro. And remember your best bargaining tool is your feet. (a smartphone can be handy, too)
I am 38 years old with a paid off mortgage and no student loan debt because I have NEVER had a new vehicle. I have seen Nissan Patrols' in Africa with well over a million miles on them. Drive those things until they die. Dave Ramsey is my financial idol.
My direct answer (no offense intended, just being candid here) to the question - When to buy a new car? That answer is never. We only buy used ones that have been thoroughly evaluated by our trusted mechanic. We only buy once they ALREADY have 100,000 miles. Presently we have two Hondas that are as tight as a drum, like new but with well over 100,000 miles. My Chevy truck we broke the rules on and got when it had 70,000 miles. Presently it has 228,000 and is just now beginning to show its age.
I say buy used and then plow the savings into shaving gear!
I say buy used and then plow the savings into shaving gear!
We're a bit in the same situation ... our garage tells us that the upcoming repairs on our car (nothing unexpected, it has run 120k miles) are too expensive, given the value of the car. OTOH, it's a fine car, and we never had big problems, so why change? My goal would be more or less to drive it until at least 150k miles. It's not worth really much anyway anymore.
I'm talking about a Skoda Fabia, btw (1400cc engine, stationcar).
I'm talking about a Skoda Fabia, btw (1400cc engine, stationcar).
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