When can a razor no longer be sharpened?

[RumpleBearskin]

For any and all that were interested in how things turned out ...

I finally got time to sit down and try honing this razor. First step was the Sharpie test. What it initially showed me was contact at the heel and about 3/4 of the length towards the toe (the "frown") and then no contact all the way to the toe. Out came the Norton 1k and before long there was contact from the heel to the 3/4 point (Frown gone? Looks like it's still there in the pictures below, but sharpie said clean contact across that area.), but still no contact at the toe. So I kept going ... and going, all the while watching the progression of the sharpie disappearing farther and farther along toward the toe.

(Some of you may be saying that at this point I was removing way too much steel, and you're probably right. But this was intended to be a cheap practice razor and that's what I was doing, trying to narrow the bevel angle (and learning my measuring technique needed policing), trying to remove a frown, and now trying to react to what I believed the sharpie test was telling me about the consistency of the edge along the length of the blade. And if the razor dissolved on the stone in the process, so be it.)​

So, I kept at it and eventually the sharpie disappeared all the way from heel to toe.

I then tried Lynn Abrams' Circle method of bevel setting on the 1K, but paying better attention to the directions. Lo and behold, shaving arm hair off the 1k. I moved on to the Norton 4k and 8k and was able to do some tree topping, but nothing spectacular. Not as good as my Dovo Forestal which has been sharpened by someone that knew what they were doing. Nonetheless, I moved on to the Nany 12k and then my diamond pasted balsa, .5u, .25u, .1u and finished on unpasted balsa. At this point I could feel the blade catch at every single arm hair as I tried treetoping at about 1/4". They didn't "pop" off (I don't think), but they did cut cleanly and consistently across the length of the blade. Then off to the untreated leather strop to complete the process.

And then I shaved. Honestly, not the best shave, but certainly passable and without the tugging I had previously been getting. I used the entire blade length and whiskers fell before my mighty strokes. (Overly dramatic, I know. But I was really happy I hadn't "ruined" the razor.)

So, the razor still fulfills its intended function. It's still my "honing practice" razor so I'll be bevel setting and finishing weekly until I get it all right, or there's no more steel. Below are pictures of the razor in its current state.

And many, many thanks to all that have offered advice, information, instruction, and encouragement. It is greatly appreciated and the spirit in which it is offered makes B&B one of my favorite places to hang out.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Looks like it still frowns a tiny bit. Just needs to cheer up a little. Anyway you got it shaving, so mark it down as a success.

I have a feeling your next time at bat with this razor on the hones will have you leaping with joy.

And don't feel bad about grinding a lot of steel away. You gotta break some eggs if you're gonna make a soufflee. Once you really and truly got it, you won't have to do any more coarse work on that razor ever again. It's not your fault. It is the fault of whoever honed it into such a state to begin with.

 

[RumpleBearskin]

Update for any interested in this continuing saga ...

As I previously said, this is a honing practice razor so I have regularly been resetting the bevel and sharpening it. I've had significant trouble and have been systematically identifying issues and correcting them. First was an awesome failure of the "tap and wobble" test that indicated that there was a warp. I may have introduced it in my spine thinning or it may have previously existed. So back to work on the spine to correct or minimize the warp. Again attempting to set the bevel left me with a pronounced frown (and an incomplete bevel). Maybe to much pressure causing the center of the blade to deflect more than the ends?

But, in for a penny, in for a pound. Resigning myself to ending up with a sharpened toothpick, I went for the breadknife to remove the frown. It's now again a straight-edged razor and I'll again try to set the bevel.

Oh the things I've done to this razor! Am I trying to "save" a $10 razor? Absolutely not. But am I trying to learn from mistakes, both mine and those of the previous owner? Most assuredly. Should I "toss" this razor? If I were looking for a regular shaver, probably yes. But, as a vehicle to practice and explore, it's perfect. And who knows... Maybe a 1/8" razor will catch on...

 

[duke762]

The title of this thread keeps making want to reply...."After I've gotten a hold of it". In my opinion, problem solving is a great way to learn. Practice is priceless.

 

[Dzaw]

When you're done with this razor, and have it shaving the way you like, it will probably become your favorite.

Something special about all the labor we pour into fixing our own flubs, it makes for a great tool, and one our hands already know very well.

 

[Christian1212]

I have a Worcester that is about 4/8 that I got as sort of to practice honing. I dont shave with it often but I love this small razor. Had to do a bit of grinding on the heel but she takes a nice coticule edge now.
Imgur

 

[Gamma]

Looks good - honing 1 basket case can teach you more about honing than 100 brand new blades ever could.

 

[RumpleBearskin]

Final update on the original razor in question ...

I did complete the breadknife and got the majority of the frown out, but not all of it since it was starting to look more narrow than anything I'd want to shave with. Ended up just about 4/8, which I know some prefer, but feels like a toy razor in my hands.

I finally got a chance this weekend and set the bevel (Norton 1k). Whew! That was a lot of work because there is a lot of steel to remove to form an apex. Now I get the tape-x2-60-degree, tape-x2-30-degree, tape-x2, tape-x1, spine-on-stone progression that was recommended in the video. But of course I didn't do that, so it was a lot of work flat on the hone and I probably lost some more spine width.

But she did take a bevel and I was able to then run through 4k Norton, 8k Norton, 12k Naniwa, pasted balsa progression. The shave test this morning says it's a razor (though too narrow of a blade for my liking and too much hone wear on the spine to be pretty).

So, here she is ... Still a little frowney, but better than before. And I gained a lot of experience...

 

[Twelvefret]

I wonder if your experience would have been different had you followed the "burr method" using lapping films 30, 12, 9, 3, 1, .03, .05 microns? Yesterday I honed my first true wedge. There was some damage on the blade tip that the 30 and 12 cleared up. I used one later of Scotch brand electrical tape that survived the entire process. I removed the tape and used a paddle strop with rough side impregnated with chromium oxide followed by diamond/balsa. That last process with probably unnecessary, but I like the feel of a blade after CrO2. Then I stropped on linen and horse. Just did the thumb test and it felt okay. I decided to lather and shave. I learned something. While not perfect and pretty, the shave was butter smooth. Absolutely silent strokes. I could not believe how efficient this wedge turned out to be. Lots of whisker specks in the lather as I wiped the blade on the sponge.

 

[steveclarkus]

If you removed the tape, how did the CrOx and diamond affect the edge?

 

[Twelvefret]

If you removed the tape, how did the CrOx and diamond affect the edge?

Perfect. I had asked Johnloc once how to strop one that I was interested in that he had used tape. He said strop as usual without tape. It would be a pain to have to add tape every time I used a strop.

 

[habaz2]

Should be the last stop for a razor (from WW1)