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What's on your work bench right now?

OK. Sawdust mixed with wood glue makes a nearly undetectable paste. In your case, baking powder or soda applied then leveled; hit with a drop of CA glue will fill the divots, but might be barely visible.

Are you saying to fill the hole with baking powder or baking soda and then to drop a little CA glue on top of it?

If yes, I will try this in a hole in a piece of wood first.
 
Yes. Once the drop has fallen, the patch is not malleable. It is sandable, though. Good idea trying it on something else first.
 
Make sure you do this in a well-ventilated area, the fumes are toxic. Lastly, use baking soda only--not baking powder. Sorry, it's been a while. You can google this for more info. The soda is usually used as an accelerant, but the finished "filler" is both sandable and is stronger than the base material.
 
Got a new lot this morning, three Bengall and a Gotta 120.

Already started removing the rust on the Bengall, but parenthood calls.

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Are you saying to fill the hole with baking powder or baking soda and then to drop a little CA glue on top of it?

If yes, I will try this in a hole in a piece of wood first.
I've used this technique here but it will be more visible on blond horn so be aware of that before doing anything. It is very strong and difficult to sand as it sets like concrete so if you go this route be careful not to damage the non sodaGlue (TM) part when the time comes.

On blonde horn the hornoxy approach may be better.
I have a set of blond horn scales that are in much worse condition than yours but haven't tried to fix them yet if they are salvageable at all. I'll have a look over the next few days and see what I can do but the scales are so bad they mightn't be worth the effort.
 
A mixture of epoxy with horn dust would be most preferable and negate the need for baking powder and CA glue. I flew on the assumption that you had no other horn around. The fix Bevel links to fills a crack. Your repair involves two divots.

The injuries are on the inside, making the repair a better candidate for less-than-perfect (not visible). The rigidity and hardness Bevel correctly refers to makes sanding challenging, but the right tools will facilitate a repair with no obstacles. The "fills" should be, of course as close to flush/level as possible. Err on the proud side. If proud, a piece of blue painters tape with an appropriately-sized hole to reveal the wound while protecting the scale is the starting point. After that, a diamond slip with careful movements will produce an absolute flat sand. With a nimble hand, the only evidence of having "been there" would be the color difference. With the appropriate diamond slip, you can come very close to matching the existing finish. A key point is the slip is already perfectly flat. Short of that, some wet/dry sandpaper glued to a hardwood form will ensure evenness, but without diamond--Bevel's advice is valid.

Good luck.
 
I was sent this little Solingen razor becuase the owner wanted to share some little razors he had and he knew I like the little ones. So here is a nice German razor in Orange scales. Someone peened a screw into the pivot and it worked but now the hole is huge. A bit of rust and scratches. Warped scales. After about 4 hours of hand work only this is the outcome. It now sits in the "needs honed cup" but I'm happy with how it turned out. The French tip is a nice touch on this one.

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After...
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Learning to shave with a small blade takes practice. This is a 3/8+ but when I break out the 2/8 for a full shave it takes a lot of rinsing as the smaller the blade the less lather they hold.
 

Phoenixkh

I shaved a fortune
I was sent this little Solingen razor becuase the owner wanted to share some little razors he had and he knew I like the little ones. So here is a nice German razor in Orange scales. Someone peened a screw into the pivot and it worked but now the hole is huge. A bit of rust and scratches. Warped scales. After about 4 hours of hand work only this is the outcome. It now sits in the "needs honed cup" but I'm happy with how it turned out. The French tip is a nice touch on this one.

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After...
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Learning to shave with a small blade takes practice. This is a 3/8+ but when I break out the 2/8 for a full shave it takes a lot of rinsing as the smaller the blade the less lather they hold.
Beautiful restoration.... what a difference you made. lovely.
 
I finished the Wade & Butcher 7/8 near wedge square point. Still need to set the bevel.

I went to 1200-grit wet/dry followed by one round of Mothers. I decided to embrace the damaged scales. They cleaned up nicely, but there is obvious non-structural damage.

The front scale has two insect(?) holes on the inside.

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Less damage to the backside scale - I had a hard time capturing the grind marks which I like to do.

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Bonus pic from before pinning the scales.

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I finished the Wade & Butcher 7/8 near wedge square point. Still need to set the bevel.
That looks pretty good Frank, the regrind looks very even.
I decided to embrace the damaged scales. They cleaned up nicely, but there is obvious non-structural damage.

The front scale has two insect(?) holes on the inside.
I mentioned earlier in the thread that I had trashed scales that I'd have a look to see if I could do anything to salvage them.

Turns out they are blonde horn, also from a Wade & Butcher and after quite a bit of work I'll now put them back on the blade to keep the razor as original as possible. I managed to save the collars too so the only thing new will be rod stock.

What sort of insect does this to horn scales? Have they no respect for history.
 
It’s been awhile since I’ve done any restoration work, or straight shaving in general. But recently I started dabbling with my SRs again. Today I pulled out a large Kropp blade that needed scales.

I’d forgotten how long it all takes, and also how satisfying it is to shave with your handiwork. This will be a work horse, and not a show piece. Scales are translucent dark grey and the wedge is red.

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