now
OK eventually had some time to finish this razor. I had to do some research, ok my wife did research about this razor. It’s a Maleham & Yeomans straight. The razor was made before the invention of celluloid plastic and sport pressed leather scales. There is a W^D2 mark stamped on the leather scales that was the designation for the British War Department, Not sure if this was for hospital use or soldier issue, if you guys know it would be great to hear your feedback.
I have been thinking about this also because i have a frameback that needs pin replacement. I did run across some small 2lb jewelers anvils on the bay and was thinking about using a drill bit just a little bigger than the pins and make a shallow indention into the anvil.Thank you Dean!!!! I'm getting use to it now just need to work out how to get the pins with a nice round top, but i have just done 3 with stainless steel pins and had to tap them harder. lol
I can't answer your question, but that is some kind of cool!OK eventually had some time to finish this razor. I had to do some research, ok my wife did research about this razor. It’s a Maleham & Yeomans straight. The razor was made before the invention of celluloid plastic and sport pressed leather scales. There is a W^D2 mark stamped on the leather scales that was the designation for the British War Department, Not sure if this was for hospital use or soldier issue, if you guys know it would be great to hear your feedback.
11/16 Maleham & Yeomans Half Hollow Square Poin (1860’s)
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Finished up a Jernbolaget tonight.
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Disassembled and cleaned. I'm told the original scales are micarta and I was able to save them and resemble with a brass pin peened without collars or washers (like the untouched wedge pin, but not as cleanly). Sharpie tested and the bevel was good. Honed on a coticule and finished on the hybrid side of a les latenuses. Shave test tomorrow...
I have been thinking about this also because i have a frameback that needs pin replacement. I did run across some small 2lb jewelers anvils on the bay and was thinking about using a drill bit just a little bigger than the pins and make a shallow indention into the anvil.
Not bad looking anvil for under 30$
Small Miniature Rustic Oliver Tractor 1929 4" Cast Iron Anvil Jeweler Hobby | eBay - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Miniature-Rustic-Oliver-Tractor-1929-4-Cast-Iron-Anvil-Jeweler-Hobby/312547453536?hash=item48c547aa60:g:kOcAAOSwsixcdFEL
CCR, that is exactly what I did with a Harbor Freight anvil.
On the pointy side I drilled a hole for the rod to go in while I peen the other end of it. Also, it works well to put the tiny washers on. Put the washer on the anvil, place the rod in the washer, slide it to the hole, push down and then catch the washer with your nail while lifting it out. I also drilled a couple divots on the big end to place the collar while peening the other side. Be careful, though. The divot doesn't need to be very deep and that anvil drills much easier than one might imagine! Actually, I would suggest using a larger bit and not even drilling to the full diameter of the bit.
I hope my ramblings make a little sense!
Started working on the Walk Over. I hated to sand the blade, knowing that even if you match the polish level perfectly the removal of patina is going to stand out. BUT I couldn't bear the thought of that insidious cell rot eating away at the blade. So, out came the nail polish and sandpaper. The tang was really rusted. Still work to be done!
I also carved out a pair of Indian Ebony scales for it. Pic 1 is after 4 coats of CA and a sanding. Pic 2 after 6 additional coats in preparation for final sanding and polishing. That will come after the CA cures for a while.
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While technically not on my workbench, it isn't yet finished. Here's a sneak preview of a pallet wood display case in the works. A fine specimen of my "chainsaw carpentry" skills!
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Nice razors, but that portrait is something else. Outstanding. Looks like a special family member.