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What's on your work bench right now?

No I have just looked it is resin they take the air out of the wood and replace it with resin, so in that case you should be able to use Danish oil to pop the grain.
 
Cool will try that on the oak scales. I have a left over peace to try on. Sand first and oil with the dust on to fill the graingrooves?
 
Danish oil is way way better

I'll give it a try! If it's better I certainly won't miss waiting 24 hours between coats for the tru-oil to dry, then a week for it to set before sealing.

That is looking really god. Come on can't wait to see the final result. I will try that trick with linseed oil on some oak scales i did a couple of weeks ago. Does it work on stabilized wood as well?

Thanks! I'll try to see what's up with the bandsaw and get cracking. I honestly don't know much about stabilized wood, but try wetting a piece of scrap. If it drinks water and the grain sticks out, then my guess would be it'll drink oil too. Just a question of whether or not the pores were closed when it was stabilized.
 
I'll give it a try! If it's better I certainly won't miss waiting 24 hours between coats for the tru-oil to dry, then a week for it to set before sealing.



Thanks! I'll try to see what's up with the bandsaw and get cracking. I honestly don't know much about stabilized wood, but try wetting a piece of scrap. If it drinks water and the grain sticks out, then my guess would be it'll drink oil too. Just a question of whether or not the pores were closed when it was stabilized.

I would have thought it being stabilized it would not drink water as all the voids should be full of resin, as they suck the air out and let the wood suck the resin in then bake it to set the resin hard.
 
I would have thought it being stabilized it would not drink water as all the voids should be full of resin, as they suck the air out and let the wood suck the resin in then bake it to set the resin hard.

Yeah I also think so. Just thought it was worth checking if it took any water
 
Should be taken a before picture of this one it was covered in red rust. Got it all squared away for a member here. I’m happy to have save this nice old Boker.

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Really god job!
Do you remove rust on a buffing wheel or do you run a progression of sandpaper as well?
I use sandpaper followed by dremel. After a lot of experimenting I've found the felt dremel pads cut well but leave micro-scratches and hazing so I follow them with a wool dremel pad or I hand polish. Lot of labor but it is worth it.
 
I've had this one for a while in a to-do box. The blade is gorgeous, but the scales were broken. I finally took the time to rescale it. Bone.
I used micro-fastener for the first time and I have to say, I like that a lot better than pinning.
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8/8 Wade and butcher fbu . I scored some whale bone at an antique shop recently. I figured why not? I have made a few pairs of scales so far from different materials. The whale bone is a not so easy to find .
 
In the middle of a Double Duck restore, straightened out and polished the scales tonight. This razor is going to look great it is cleaning up very nicely.

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View attachment 974559 8/8 Wade and butcher fbu . I scored some whale bone at an antique shop recently. I figured why not? I have made a few pairs of scales so far from different materials. The whale bone is a not so easy to find .

That Wade & Butcher has come up beautiful Sir!!! :001_tt1::001_tt1::001_tt1::001_tt1::001_tt1:

That's one I have to try I have some camel bone sat here ready...:punk::punk::punk:


Another fantastic restore Sir!!! :001_tt1::001_tt1::001_tt1::001_tt1::001_tt1: I Love the Dubl Ducks a fantastic razor, but that one looks like new now.
 
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