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what's a good price on a fatboy?

I'd really like to have one...well, I'd really like to find one at an estate sale and get it for $10 or less(which means I might be dreaming) but I just lost 2 auctions on Ebay with max bids of $30 and $35..sniped in the last seconds..any of you seasoned veterans out there got any tips for this poor noob with a mild case of RAD?
 
Just keep trying. It took me a month, but I finally got one for $20 (and I wanted a particular date code). Do NOT fall into the trap of bidding more than you want to pay.

Don't bid more than 2 days in advance, and then you don't have to wait as long to bid on the next one if you lose.

Good luck!
 
My advice would be the same...patience. Prices on these are currently really high.

Bid at the end of the auction, or if you don't want to watch the thread, put in the highest you're happy to pay and then leave it alone. Eventually one will slip through.

Also check out the auctions for "Slims"...I've seen one Fatboy listed as a Slim, although it's usually the other way around.

BTW, I've tried them both and prefer the Slim. Gave my Fatboy to a friend.
 
Just wait...eventually it'll pop up on the BST or eBay, keep looking and remember how much you want to spend. $30-$35 is good for one in G/VG condition uncased. I waited and got exactly the razor I was looking for ten dollars less than I thought I would have to pay: Merkur 39C for $25. It's all about right place right time, just like everything in life.
 
+1 on keep trying! I wanted one too a while back too, so I searched each evening, and anytime I saw an auction ending soon with a low bid I put my own bid in and before I knew it I had two in the mail.

Just a little bit of persistance is all it takes. Good luck, Fatboys are a cool piece of nostalgia and cheaper than a muscle car:001_cool:
 
Just keep trying. It took me a month, but I finally got one for $20 (and I wanted a particular date code).



I've got a dumb question. Why is a Fatboy (or any other DE razor for that matter) worth more or less with a particular date code? The only reason I could think would be a very personal one-such as wanting one from the year of one's birth, or if one had one that they bought new in year X but lost subsequently somehow and wants to replace what they had as closely as possible.

FYI, if you have a large flea market anywhere in your vicinity, you might try there. I see 5-10 DE razors per month at the one by my house. I've bought a Fatboy and the "gold" Fatboy (forget what it's called-executive maybe?) at this flea market and haven't paid more than a couple of bucks for any of them. In fact, the 1st DE I bought was a 40's style SS that I paid a dime for.


Beerman
 
I've got a dumb question. Why is a Fatboy (or any other DE razor for that matter) worth more or less with a particular date code? The only reason I could think would be a very personal one-such as wanting one from the year of one's birth, or if one had one that they bought new in year X but lost subsequently somehow and wants to replace what they had as closely as possible.

It is usually about wanting to have a razor from one's birth year or to replace one someone owned. The fact that they have date codes that even tell you the quarter just makes it that much more irresistible for some. Right after I learned about dates code I checked found that the Slim I had gotten from the 'bay the week before was the year and quarter of my birth!
 
Just keep trying. It took me a month, but I finally got one for $20 (and I wanted a particular date code).



I've got a dumb question. Why is a Fatboy (or any other DE razor for that matter) worth more or less with a particular date code? The only reason I could think would be a very personal one-such as wanting one from the year of one's birth, or if one had one that they bought new in year X but lost subsequently somehow and wants to replace what they had as closely as possible.

FYI, if you have a large flea market anywhere in your vicinity, you might try there. I see 5-10 DE razors per month at the one by my house. I've bought a Fatboy and the "gold" Fatboy (forget what it's called-executive maybe?) at this flea market and haven't paid more than a couple of bucks for any of them. In fact, the 1st DE I bought was a 40's style SS that I paid a dime for.


Beerman

If that were happening near my house, I'd buy them all and sell the ones I didn't want to keep on BST.
 
There might be one at a local antique store, and I think they want $10. If you're interested, let me know, and I'll pick it up for you and mail it to you at cost. I can send you a picture of it before I buy it if you'd like.
 
There's only one way to get a good deal on eBay: decide how much you want to pay for it, then bid that much in every auction you can find. You'll lose 99% of them, but eventually one will slip by everyone else and if you can afford to be patient you'll hit the jackpot sooner or later.
 
I'm actually going to a flea market this weekend.
hopefully i can pick up a fat boy or slim.

i really want one just to compete my pathetic noobie collection!
hopefully i can get one for cheap as well!
 
M

magelsen

I have bought a few around $20-$25 with shipping. Look for uncleaned, sometimes fuzzy pictures. May not be listed as fat boy, maybe only listed as safety razor or vintage Gillette, etc. Make sure you can tell the difference form a slim. Some will only be shaver grade, but about 1/2 I have bought that way turn out to be surprisingly nice after they are cleaned and polished. I have then given them away to family members as a present. A unique birthday gift for only $25.
 
Also check out the auctions for "Slims"...I've seen one Fatboy listed as a Slim, although it's usually the other way around.

Do be careful of this. My first 'Fatboy' I bought was in fact a slim. I didn't know this of course until I bought another Fatboy which was a lot errrm.. 'fatter' than my first one.
 
And let me say, if you find a really nice Slim for under $20, grab it. They are wonderful razors and I like them better than the Fatboy. I can never get under my nose with a Fatboy, but the lower profile of the Slim head handles it.
 
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