What to fix first?

[Chaloney]

So i just got this nice nearly 6/8 hollow ground Frederick Reynolds off the bay. It had a tiny crack near the edge that was not visible in the pics. I pushed on it a little and it (luckily) became the small chip in the edge visible in the picture (I say luckily because the crack stayed near the edge rather than going up the very thin blade.



So the question is, do I polish it up first (sanding, etc) then try to hone out the chip, or hone out the chip first (to make sure it can be done without making things worse) then clean up the rest?

or do I email the seller that their listing was misleading and that the small crack in the edge ruins the purpose of a razor (to shave) and that I want a refund? I'd rather not do this as there appears to be plenty of blade left and Reynolds are reputed to make for excellent shavers. There are no other obvious issues (corrosion or pitting) with it

 

[Mike H]

If there is a "crack" beyond the small chip, then send the razor back if you can. A chip can be honed out, a crack will likely get worse.

 

[Chaloney]

If there is a "crack" beyond the small chip, then send the razor back if you can. A chip can be honed out, a crack will likely get worse.

Absolutely, and I will look closely with a loupe or microscope when I get the chance. I think it just turned back towards the edge and became a chip when I pressed on it

edit: just checked. No further cracks apparent. Just a chip now

 

[ScottinAZ]

hone out the chip, and refinish to your hearts content. doing the chip first will ensure you don't spend time on something that gets worse, or wont come out fully

 

[gimpochin]

Looks like a nice razor. However if you paid a steep price the seller owes you. After all you didn't buy a defective razor. good luck!

 

[Doc226]

Clean up and get a nice bevel first then clean up.

I do this on some that have some rust or pits near the edge just to make sure I don't waste my time.

After you do get a nice clean bevel don't forget to dull it again before cleaning up but please remember a "dull" straight is still VERY capable of cutting you.

 

[Gamma]

Unless it cost less than 10 dollars, I'd notify the seller and explain.
Factually - you'll have to remove a good amount of steel to clear the chip.
It's not really big, but you're looking at taking off way more than you would have to if there wasn't a crack.
If nothing else - the seller might look at what they're selling more closely in the future, thereby saving someone else from having to deal with a similar or worse scenario.
If the seller is honest and on-point they may refund you for you trouble.
If not - then not, but I see it being the responsible thing to do.

FWIW - I've gone through this exact same situation on more than one occasion.
All the sellers apologized, they weren't 'razor' people and had no idea.
All sent me a refund of some sort. One just sent me back the full amount including shipping.

Always address the edge before investing time on other parts of the project.
There's no point in making new scales to fit a blade that's loaded with swiss cheese that runs up to the middle of the grind.

I really like that blade - it'll clean up well. Nice score!

 

[Chaloney]

Thanks for the input. It was about $30 but I really like it and except for the chip it looks like it will clean up really nicely. I will plan on honing out the chip hopefully tonight.

edit: I did send a message to the seller, we'll see what happens

 

[Chaloney]

Heard back from the seller. As with your experience Gamma, she offered to accept a return with full refund or I keep it and she refund half the money. I chose the latter and look forward to cleaning it up and shaving with it.

Alfredo--thanks for the reminder about re-dulling the edge. I generally use a magnetic safety jig, but after seeing Thomas Martin's hand, I think the duller the better is good advice with straights when doing anything other than shaving. I don't need any extra trips to the hospital. I spend enough time there for work!

 

[Chaloney]

Honed out the chip last night then spent some time with some MAAS. looks very good for how little effort it took. Still some patina but about half of the staining came out with the MAAS. Honed, tightened the pivot, stropped, and shaved with it this morning. Great shave. It does seem to be out for my blood--got a tiny cut on my thumb while I was cleaning up last night then a little nick on my earlobe this morning that just did not want to stop. Hopefully that gets it out of its system! The scales polished up pretty nicely with MAAS as well. They look like some kind of plastic--not sure. Dark brown color but lighter (faded?) at the ends of the scales. They let off a bit of a chemical smell when the MAAS was on them. I don't see any signs of layers like with horn.



Also, I got the partial refund from the seller, so I'm very happy with it.

 

[pmaster]

I've had some black-brown-ish colored scales before. Usually the scales are actually black but have turned brown with time (rot?dirt? not sure). You can sand away the brownish color to reveal very nice black scales which can be polished to a mirror-like shine.

I very much like the shape of the razor's spine, nice job on saving the chipped edge.