What to do about Spartacus?

[totorlekiller]

So a vintage Spartacus came my way.
It needs a bit of work. A ding and some oxidation.
The scales are in good shape, but a cheap material.

My dilemma is about what to do about Spartacus.


The gold etching appears to be compromised. So it looks to me that the best way to rejuvenate that razor it to sand it down. I don't care much for etching typically, but here we are talking about Spartacus.
Is there a magic trick better than just taping it over?

 

[mycarver]

You can tape it off as you suggest, but you'll end up with a polished blade with a rusted etch/gold wash. Seems at odds

 

[totorlekiller]

Isn't it weird that the etching would have rust?
The rust can not be over, so it has to be under. But one would think it act as a protective layer.

Unless it is not rust and just some kind of filth over. Then a very gentle scrub could clean without taking the gold off.
But what is that gentle way of scrubbing? I could try on the buffing wheel with some fine rouge.

 

[Seraphim]

Let Doc work his magic...

 

[mycarver]

Not really , any damage to the gold wash and the rest is history. It takes very little to damage this stuff as it's not very thick or resistant to damage. It's not under,, it's through. It's rust. All you need it the tiniest little pin ***** in the gold and it'll rust.
Just like your car. The paint protects it. Get a chip to the steel underneath and in a day or two you'll see rust. Washing, scrubbing, polishing etc. won't cure it. Leave it there and it will just spread. Even under the paint.
A buffing wheel will take the gold off in a heart beat. The first time you touch the razor to the wheel, regardless what compound you have on it, it will be gone.

A bit of work and that blade will come back. Minus the etch of course,but could be killer with a nice polish.

 

[totorlekiller]

So what the roman empire could not do, a simple buffing wheel with some wimpy rouge will.

 

[mycarver]

Well using just a buffer on this will remove the surface rust and etch,, but you still have to consider the pitting. Use just a buffer and you run the risk of killing the details of the blade and then it's useless.

 

[totorlekiller]

I started on the other side of the blade and the rust was superficial. No pitting.
So light sanding should clean it up. But bye-bye Spartacus. And since it is not on the tang, all trace of the model will be gone.

 

[Seraphim]

It will end up looking just like a Gold Dollar 208....

What an ignoble fate!

 

[mycarver]

There you go , sounds like you're well on your way. Let us see how it turns out. As I said, shouldn't take much.

 

[totorlekiller]

Other suggestions?

 

[mycarver]

Other suggestions as far as ?
How to get it smooth?
How to polish it?
What to do on the face?

What do you need to know?

 

[mycarver]

I started on the other side of the blade and the rust was superficial. No pitting.
So light sanding should clean it up. But bye-bye Spartacus. And since it is not on the tang, all trace of the model will be gone.

Have you unpinned this razor? I'd be willing to bet there is some rust under the scales around the hinge pin. If there isn't I'd be totally surprised 'cause there is always some there. Drives me nuts knowing that.Of course I want to save them all.

 

[totorlekiller]

The pins are tight and the blade is well centered. So I was hoping I'll avoid doing this.
I have been a bit shy with unpinning. I am a bit intimidated. The only pinning I have done so far is my rescaled Dubl Duck and I am not very happy with the job.
I have my favorite TI (a Taos 5/8) that has a cracked washer and which makes the blade too lose. I have not gathered the courage to re-pin it yet.

 

[mycarver]

I understand your hesitation. It can be intimidating while at the same time think you'll ruin a good set of scales, not get it back together again and have it better than when you started.
I'm not sure what tools you have to begin suggesting remedies. The best way I've found to remove scales is to drill out the pin if I have any question about keeping the scales and not having them crack trying to pry off the scales over a still slightly peened pin.
But this requires a way to center mark the pin,, drill it out with a drill press ,, etc.
Or , you can simply file away the pin/washer while protecting the surrounding scale with duct tape if you're unsteady with a file.
Once it's pretty much gone you can lift the old washer off with the edge of a knife and gently pry the scale free.

 

[weizemanner]

I had a similar situation with a King Kutter. There was rust all over the gold wash. I took some maas polish and put it on a towel and rubbed it gently by hand for a bit and all of the rust came off. There is a couple nicks in the gold and some fleabites and stuff, but it still has the gold wash and it doesn't have any rust.

I would try that and if you don't get the same results, then take it to the wheel and at least it will still shave great.

 

[alpster]

I had a similar situation with a King Kutter. There was rust all over the gold wash. I took some maas polish and put it on a towel and rubbed it gently by hand for a bit and all of the rust came off. There is a couple nicks in the gold and some fleabites and stuff, but it still has the gold wash and it doesn't have any rust.

I would try that and if you don't get the same results, then take it to the wheel and at least it will still shave great.

This is good advice ^^^......I have had good luck using Q-tips with Mothers on delicate plating & etching. The key is gentle and careful. You won't make it any worse. JMHO

 

[BDF]

But the goldwash could be duplicated too, after the razor was sanded and polished... right? Someone.... let me think who that might be..... would have to prepare the steel razor face then mask off the steel so that gold was only deposited where it was supposed to go in the first place. Then a very quick gold polish and viola!

Brian

Not really , any damage to the gold wash and the rest is history. It takes very little to damage this stuff as it's not very thick or resistant to damage. It's not under,, it's through. It's rust. All you need it the tiniest little pin ***** in the gold and it'll rust.