Getting hht was my problem at first, I wasn't stropping at all to check it but the edges were usually mellow and fairly sharp. Now it's quick and easyI actually had an easier time learning on the coticule then on my previous attempt learning on synthetics. It was rather simple for me. Now my edges at first weren't as good as they were later on after I had experimented and refined my coticule honing technique/approach but they got better and I was able to deduce what to add or eliminate into my technique/approach to improve the edges I was getting. The most recent being honing without slurry, water only.
When I saw the video of the 8k on YouTube from Keith there I talked about the 1,2 punch with the 4k so I decided to get them and quite pleased I didNice. It doesn't get much better than the Hayabusa & Fuji in combination. Where did you hear about them, do you remember?
I am your guy that can work with a 8K and ceramic triangle to get a SR shave ready.I love trying new stones. I just ordered a Vermont green slate from Griffith Shaving. Since it is advertised as something in the 10-12K range, I do not expect it to produce finer edges than some of my other natural stones and certainly not as fine as a Suehiro G20K. For those folks who can easily shave off an 8K Norton, the Vermont green might be a wonderful hone.
As Earcutter says "Rocks are Cool". I like to see what kind of edge I can get from different stones.
A hard ark finish is tough to beat. If you rough them up with 400 grit WD every now and again it speeds them up quite a bit.Knives? I think I started with a course corundum stone and a soft arkansas to finish. The ark was a tiny little thing. I worked at it for years until I actually got really good. I always free hand honed, never using any form of bevel guide, so it took a long time to get good. Now I can shave arm hair clean as a whistle with almost no pressure, though the shave angle is pretty steep as a knife bevel is nothing like a razor bevel.
Then on to wood chisels and plane blades, again corundum and a soft ark. I have wanted to get a hard ark for my hand planes as they can benefit from smoothness. Alas, my soft ark still gives me a usable edge on a wood plane.
Razors? I have a soft, hard, and black bench hones. I love them and get good edges these days. Razors were a learning curve. You can do a lot of laps on a black ark before you notice much has been done to the edge. I now do 300 laps. Honestly it gets old, but I don't have a lot of money in my hone setup. It's slow, but it gives a good edge.
SameNaniwa SS Set 1k - 12k
I don't think you mean "Washita" in this case.I wish I knew more to elaborate. I learned on the base stone PIFd to me by my mentor. I only know it's a Washita L5, and (I believe the shape is denoted by) Koppa. It is the only stone I've ever used. I was also PIFd a Botan and Koma Nagura. I picked up a beautiful pair of Mejiro and Tenjyou Naguras, and it's been getting only better with every shave. Sometimes it's a matter of how much time I spend. Sometimes it's a matter of consistency. This tells me I need LOTS of practice. It should be one or the other, I would think--all else unchanged.
I'm a very lucky man. Oh, and I set my bevel on a Naniwa SS 1K that I picked up from Griffiths.
There's something more than alluring about that dull gray, inflatable-toy appearance of an edge made to the best of my ability. I know that many can create an edge that is worlds better than mine, but for now, mine are shaving well. I've been exceedingly fortunate. When I have a question, I have a genie that appears from a bottle. It looks like my mentor, or like this forum. One is usually as good as the other. I do have a soft spot for my mentor, though.