Hi Gent's.
What oil do you all use on your straights, to protect them till the next use or the best oil.
What oil do you all use on your straights, to protect them till the next use or the best oil.
What oil
- Thread starter Ice-Man
- Start date
none
Mineral oil. I believe baby oil works too.
1 pt. mineral oil to 4 pts. ethyl alcohol, keeping the solution away from the scales.
I don't use any. I've got an industrial desiccant designed for panel boxes hidden in my display cabinet. Keeps all my razors good.
Remoil works great
None. I use silicone sleeves. Works well for me.
i use ballistol. A small can of that will last me forever.
For short term none..
For Long term storage I use Lucas Original Gun oil. It's very similar to Ballistol.
For Long term storage I use Lucas Original Gun oil. It's very similar to Ballistol.
Note, oil can change the appearance of some natural scales. I've seen it turn thin bone nearly transparent; it picked up a "wet look."
- Thread starter
- #12
Well I can tell you why I asked is I bought a new straight, *** a year ago when I was getting the itch to try one. Never used it but looking under the scope I see pitting in the blade, but no rust or it is just starting that's why I asked. As I would like a way to keep them without worrying.
The razor in question was a cheap one to try yes I know it was cheap.
The razor in question was a cheap one to try yes I know it was cheap.
I use no oil at all for storage. About once a year (or two) I will use a needle luber and put a drop of Rem Oil or Ballistol on the pivot pin. That's it
A drop of mineral oil on each side of the blade before it goes into storage.
I use Ballistol for prevention. It doesn't get "gummy" over time. I keep a cotton ball dampened with the Ballistol in a smal Jar.
Silicone razor socks and Tuf-Glide.
When I get a new razor, clean it up, usually either hone it or refresh it, and then it get's one and only one application of Tuf-Glide, it binds with the metal, and then proper drying and storing will take care of the rest.
I try to stay away from any organic oils on razors, as they say, "like dissolves like".....
When I get a new razor, clean it up, usually either hone it or refresh it, and then it get's one and only one application of Tuf-Glide, it binds with the metal, and then proper drying and storing will take care of the rest.
I try to stay away from any organic oils on razors, as they say, "like dissolves like".....
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I use motor oil for short term storage, petroleum jelly for long term. Motor oil is specifically formulated to leave a good long lasting film on steel. Ballistol? That may well be better, but I use what I use.
I have not noticed any problem with scales. However, I don't think I have any bone scaled razors, either.
I used to never use oil. I didn't think I needed to, if my razors were put away dry. A few rusty blades showed me the error of my thinking.
I have not noticed any problem with scales. However, I don't think I have any bone scaled razors, either.
I used to never use oil. I didn't think I needed to, if my razors were put away dry. A few rusty blades showed me the error of my thinking.
i live in a really humid area (armpit) of Texas and i know what it does to my car if left alone. Using oil or Ballistol on a razor may well be overkill given that i only have 3, so they'll all get used at least once a week and they sit indoors rather than on the driveway.
But to me, the entire ritual is part of the enjoyment and so stropping and oiling them after use seems a natural way to look after them and stop any deterioration. Besides, how much effort is involved?
But to me, the entire ritual is part of the enjoyment and so stropping and oiling them after use seems a natural way to look after them and stop any deterioration. Besides, how much effort is involved?
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Ballistol is a mineral oil solution I believe. It's fine if you want to use oil.
For storage, I use the silicone socks. For the rotation I use clean and dry.
For pitting, like on an eBay special, I clean the pits with a fiberglas brush and apply some Renaissance wax to them to prevent further erosion of the corrosion. Lol.
Sometimes you can see some pits in even NOS with no rust or corrosion. I've often wondered if these pits were simply part of the blank that were not removed by grinding.
Cheers, Steve
For storage, I use the silicone socks. For the rotation I use clean and dry.
For pitting, like on an eBay special, I clean the pits with a fiberglas brush and apply some Renaissance wax to them to prevent further erosion of the corrosion. Lol.
Sometimes you can see some pits in even NOS with no rust or corrosion. I've often wondered if these pits were simply part of the blank that were not removed by grinding.
Cheers, Steve
The silicone sleeves are great, but for long term storage I rub a little camellia oil, also called tsubaki oil, on them. I've been using that for carbon knives for a long time, and a small bottle should last a lifetime.
