What makes this the best razor I have used?

[Jack Goossen]

Here's a question for those who understand the construction of razor heads.
Yesterday, I used this vintage bakelite for the first time.
I must have used about thirty DE razors, and while some are very aggressive and produce an extreme close shave, this comes at a price. These razors are usualy harsh and require very carefully applied pressure and angle, or they will eat you.
This razor produces a very, very close shave, but it is easy to use, doesn't bite or needs careful pressure or angle.
Make a mistake and nothing happens.
Looking at the construction, I noticed many differences from other razors. I attached some pics and would like to know: what in its construction makes this razor so good, combining extreme closeness and ease of use?
Bonus question: could a metal copy of this razor become a succes?
If you need more pics, please ask

 

[RenoRichard]

@Jack Goossen - Looking at your pictures, I would guess that the limited amount of blade exposed beyond the edge of the top cap, coupled with what looks like a mid-level blade gap is what is making the razor pleasant and forgiving.

A number of razors share these attributes and are generally perceived as forgiving, the RazoRock Lupo AL I've been using recently comes to mind, as one example.

 

[RayClem]

Jack- you are correct in that there is a correlation between aggression and efficiency in most razors. However, that is not always the case. The most efficient razor is a straight razor, but with proper technique, it does not need to be aggressive.

I take advantage of the variation in efficiency between different razors when I shave. I start out with a very efficient razor like an open comb on my first pass WTG to knock down the majority of my beard growth. If I tried using that same razor ATG, I would get irritation. Thus, as I progress through my shave, I use less aggressive/less efficient razors for each subsequent pass. I finish my shave using a very mild VdH TTO razor equipped with a super sharp blade for my final clean-up pass. I can do a variety of XTG and ATG buffing strokes with that razor without irritation. Although I have used that razor for a complete shave when traveling, I get better shaves using multiple razors, especially when I have more than one day beard growth.

 

[Jack Goossen]

Jack- you are correct in that there is a correlation between aggression and efficiency in most razors. However, that is not always the case. The most efficient razor is a straight razor, but with proper technique, it does not need to be aggressive.

I take advantage of the variation in efficiency between different razors when I shave. I start out with a very efficient razor like an open comb on my first pass WTG to knock down the majority of my beard growth. If I tried using that same razor ATG, I would get irritation. Thus, as I progress through my shave, I use less aggressive/less efficient razors for each subsequent pass. I finish my shave using a very mild VdH TTO razor equipped with a super sharp blade for my final clean-up pass. I can do a variety of XTG and ATG buffing strokes with that razor without irritation. Although I have used that razor for a complete shave when traveling, I get better shaves using multiple razors, especially when I have more than one day beard growth.

Thank you, Ray.
The question remains what part of the design makes the razor in the pics so good?
The blad gap is generous, blade exposure a bit more modest, but what is the role of this particular design, especially the head design.

 

[Possum092]

Thank you, Ray.
The question remains what part of the design makes the razor in the pics so good?
The blad gap is generous, blade exposure a bit more modest, but what is the role of this particular design, especially the head design.

The steep arched angle of attack on hairs (upwards away from skin); the blade edge alignment and bar. It’s high school geometry

 

[BradWorld]

there is a correlation between aggression and efficiency

I think of it as more of a variable correlation between smoothness and efficiency. How efficiently can a razor shave me, versus how smooth and pleasurable it feels on my face while doing so. There is a sweet spot between these two variables that is different for each person.

A Tech shaves me smooth as silk. But if it doesn’t provide an efficient close shave, then it doesn’t fit in my top rotation. An R41 will provide a super close shave every time, but it is nowhere near smooth or pleasurable. This is why people spend big bucks on modern artisan razors like the Wolfman. The relationship between efficiency and smoothness is much closer, providing hyper-efficient shaves with an amazing smoothness and comfort.

If you have found a razor that provides this for you, you may have found your RAD killer.

 

[Jack Goossen]

I think of it as more of a variable correlation between smoothness and efficiency. How efficiently can a razor shave me, versus how smooth and pleasurable it feels on my face while doing so. There is a sweet spot between these two variables that is different for each person.

A Tech shaves me smooth as silk. But if it doesn’t provide an efficient close shave, then it doesn’t fit in my top rotation. An R41 will provide a super close shave every time, but it is nowhere near smooth or pleasurable. This is why people spend big bucks on modern artisan razors like the Wolfman. The relationship between efficiency and smoothness is much closer, providing hyper-efficient shaves with an amazing smoothness and comfort.

If you have found a razor that provides this for you, you may have found your RAD killer.

That makes me happy.
But... what exactly is a RAD killer?

 

[Alum Ladd]

That makes me happy.
But... what exactly is a RAD killer?

Jack, is that the Wardonia No.33? There should be a number on the bottom of the handle.

I have been thinking of getting one. Does this one take standard DE blades?

 

[Big_T]

That makes me happy.
But... what exactly is a RAD killer?

Jack, a RAD killer is a razor addiction killer. In other words, you have found your holy grail so no need to buy more razors.

That razor curves the blade quite a bit, similar to the Razorock Baby Smooth.

RazoRock Baby Smooth Double Edge Safety Razor – ItalianBarber

RazoRock Baby Smooth Double Edge Safety RazorBlade tabs are covered - Same Design as Titanium Baby SmoothGlossy finish on Handle and Matte (blasted) fin...

www.italianbarber.com

 

[Jack Goossen]

Jack, is that the Wardonia No.33? There should be a number on the bottom of the handle.

I have been thinking of getting one. Does this one take standard DE blades?

There's no marks on it, but it does look like a Wardonia. It does take standard DE blades though.

 

[Jack Goossen]

Jack, a RAD killer is a razor addiction killer. In other words, you have found your holy grail so no need to buy more razors.

That razor curves the blade quite a bit, similar to the Razorock Baby Smooth.

RazoRock Baby Smooth Double Edge Safety Razor – ItalianBarber

RazoRock Baby Smooth Double Edge Safety RazorBlade tabs are covered - Same Design as Titanium Baby SmoothGlossy finish on Handle and Matte (blasted) fin...

www.italianbarber.com

Thank you, Big.
I assure you there is no RAD for me.
My quest will surely never end

 

[BradWorld]

Thank you, Big.
I assure you there is no RAD for me.
My quest will surely never end

I thought my quest would never end too. Until a few weeks ago. I found a final razor that completes my top rotation.

 

[Jack Goossen]

I thought my quest would never end too. Until a few weeks ago. I found a final razor that completes my top rotation.

Tell us more

 

[BradWorld]

Tell us more

I have a full fleet of Wolfman, Charcoal Goods, Timeless, Blackland and more… but I had still felt I was missing something in my shave results. And I still kept lusting after the next razor that would kick my shave up that one last notch. I have some spots along my jaw line, and on my neck, that grow in a flat spiral pattern… and therefore are quite difficult to get to a real BBS result no matter what I do. The rest of my face will see BBS regularly. But those tricky spots would take all of the stars to line up for a BBS result. A hyper-efficient aggressive high-gap razor like the Wolfman WR2 1.55, CG Gen 1 Level 3, or an R41 could do it, but those razors straddle the line of aggression where I can not use those razors for every shave. And the risk of irritation is high. No major drama. But definitely could feel it in my sensitive neck areas. Then I got the Blackland Tradere OC. That razor pushed me closer to that pure BBS result, but also exhibited extreme smoothness. With the right blade, and the righ technique, I could get super close shaves, with my trouble spots very near a BBS every time. With zero irritation. It’s so close to perfection, that I no longer have the need to lust after new expensive razors. I feel like my rotation is complete. I even declined the next Wolfman when my number came up recently, and did not rejoin the list. So I think I’m good now. Really.

 

[Iridian]

This is a very mild head design. Maybe your entire search went into entirely the wrong direction. This is a high gap, low exposure design with a quite far standing out safety bar that seems to hit the sweet spot very well.

You will probably like the Stando razor designs a lot, too.

There is this connection between high gap and aggression: it's only true if exposure, safety bar and blade angle make aggressive use of the possibility to adjust the angle more.

Congratulations to finding the grail, Jack.
Now you gotta find it in steel or titanium. You know you want it!

 

[Happy Jack]

Thank you, Ray.
The question remains what part of the design makes the razor in the pics so good?
The blad gap is generous, blade exposure a bit more modest, but what is the role of this particular design, especially the head design.

I wonder how much the reduced weight of these razors plays a part. My best shaves come from lightweight razor heads with titanium or aluminium handles.