What makes a good strop?

[Biltong & Boerewors]

I have been honing and shaving with straight razors for about a year and the one mystery that I am still trying to get my head around is strops.

Having spent money on all the other aspects of SR shaving, I feel that I need to know more before I start spending real money on strops. Not a lot of choices in the UK.

I currently own two strops, both would be considered budget strops. A short two inch Korium strop and a XL Windrose strop that is about four inches wide. I prefer the larger strop, but the problem with the wider one is that it is cupping, so lately I started using the smaller strop. After every shave I strop for about 50 laps on diamond pasted paddle, veg tan leather strop, and then before every shave I strop on the clean leather hanging strop for about 50 laps. Seems to do the job, so I genuinely don't know if an upgrade would be worth the money. I never strop on linen or any other fabric, just leather.

So here are the questions:
1) What are you looking for if you are looking for a good quality strop?
2) Why are some strops ridiculously more expensive than others? Do you get value for money spent? I have heard some sing praises for Kanoyama. What makes them special?
3) I see strops made from cowhide, horse hide, kangaroo, buffalo. What's the pro's and cons? What characteristic of leather make for a good strop? The softer the better? The thicker the better? If I want to make my own, what leather would I be looking for?
4) Is it just about personal preference, or is there some science to it?

 

[bluesman 7]

Mostly personal preference IMO, but I like Boar, Horsehide, and Roo, in that order.

 

[ajduplessis]

Soft, flat, supple and smooth is the only criteria I have. The rest is personal preference. I cant tell the difference when using an expensive horsehide strop over a cheapish cowhide strop. In fact there is no difference when stropping on my hand either. 2.5 - 3inch wide is my preference and should be long. What makes a strop good is your daily maintenance before stropping, palm and forearm rubbing and keeping the strop clean. Dont do these on an expensive horsehide or any other strop and it will deteriorate over time.

50 laps on diamond after every shave is a overkill IMO, but each to his own. a Well set bevel that is polished should only required clean leather stropping for a couple (10-50) of shave before refreshing YMMV.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

50 laps on diamond after every shave is a overkill

I suspect you are right, but I actively hate a sub-par shave, with a sub-par edge. Really spoils my day! I am happy to make the effort to maintain a good edge when I have achieved it, and it's seldom that I have to go back to the stones. Actually the only times I do go back is when I didn't do a proper job the first time, which happens less as my honing skills improve.

 

[RayClem]

50 laps on diamond after every shave is a overkill IMO, but each to his own. a Well set bevel that is polished should only required clean leather stropping for a couple (10-50) of shave before refreshing YMMV.

Whether "50 laps on diamond" is overkill depends on the micron size of the diamond paste/spray. If you are talking about 0.5 micron diamond, then it probably is removing more metal than necessary. If you are talking about 0.1 micron diamond, then 50 laps is unlikely to be excessive.

 

[RayClem]

Traditionally, shell cordovan strops made from a membrane just under the horse's hide on the rump area have been considered the "best" strops. The Kanayama strops are shell cordovan.

I have a number of strops: Latigo leather, Russet horsehide, Novotan horsehide, Fast bridle cowhide, kangaroo hide, and shell cordovan. They vary in price and they vary in draw, but either one of the strops could maintain the edge of a straight razor. Because I have multiple strops, I often use several during a stropping session. I normally start with the Latigo strop that has a heavy draw, move to either the kangaroo or shell cordovan strop which have medium draw, and then finish up with fast bridle cowhide or one of the horsehide strops, all three of which have very light draws. One day, I might pick up a buffalo hide strop.

Thus, choose your strop based on your financial resources and whether you are looking for a strop with a heavy, medium, or light draw.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I have been honing and shaving with straight razors for about a year and the one mystery that I am still trying to get my head around is strops.

Having spent money on all the other aspects of SR shaving, I feel that I need to know more before I start spending real money on strops. Not a lot of choices in the UK.

I currently own two strops, both would be considered budget strops. A short two inch Korium strop and a XL Windrose strop that is about four inches wide. I prefer the larger strop, but the problem with the wider one is that it is cupping, so lately I started using the smaller strop. After every shave I strop for about 50 laps on diamond pasted paddle, veg tan leather strop, and then before every shave I strop on the clean leather hanging strop for about 50 laps. Seems to do the job, so I genuinely don't know if an upgrade would be worth the money. I never strop on linen or any other fabric, just leather.

So here are the questions:
1) What are you looking for if you are looking for a good quality strop?
2) Why are some strops ridiculously more expensive than others? Do you get value for money spent? I have heard some sing praises for Kanoyama. What makes them special?
3) I see strops made from cowhide, horse hide, kangaroo, buffalo. What's the pro's and cons? What characteristic of leather make for a good strop? The softer the better? The thicker the better? If I want to make my own, what leather would I be looking for?
4) Is it just about personal preference, or is there some science to it?

I think your questions are great. I don't know how to answer them in any definitive way.

My current favorite strop is this monster from Superior Shave. Mine came from the BST in pretty much new condition. I bought it because of its size (including thickness and width) and because I wanted to try horsehide (and it turns out to be some variety of shell).

Anyway, it is, in my opinion, a truly great strop, but does it do a better job than this cheap strop from eBay which has been pretty highly recommended as the best of the cheap strops by miles? I don't have the cheap strop so I don't have any way of knowing.

I'll be looking forward to some great answers to your great questions.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

If you are talking about 0.1 micron diamond, then 50 laps is unlikely to be excessive.

I use .1 micron paste. Unlikely that I will be removing undue amounts of metal. It just makes sense to me to do it on a paddle strop to maintain the same bevel angle, that was set during the honing. I also have about 30 razors in rotation, so this will happen, at most, 12 times a year.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

I don't know how to answer them in any definitive way

That's what I mean, most of the information I get sounds like it's subjective, a question of personal preference, rather than fact.

I would rather bite the bullet and spend £200 on a strop, and learn to like it, than trying to find a bargain, always thinking there is something better out there, ending up with lot's of strops that seldom if ever gets used.

But then the cost should be justified by the quality of the product, and that's the part I would like to clarify if at all possible. It sounds like if you take good care of it, a strop can be a lifetime companion, getting better with use.

 

[duke762]

Although relatively new to stropping, I've tried a couple different ones and wasn't happy until I got a shell strop. That particular strop just made it all come together for me. I use old razors, old stones and vintage strops.....couldn't be happier. I use old methodology too, Arkansas stones with oil and a non pasted shell strop. Yes, there's a lot of personal preference in strop choice. I didn't really understand the preference part of it until I had tried a couple different strops.

I had a horse hide that just didn't "feel" right to me, slick but not smooth and didn't feel real effective to me. A russian finish I tried had way to heavy of a draw for my tastes. And then I found a vintage Koken shell. Nirvana.....

You really don't need to spend a lot of money to try a few different ones if you go to Ebay and buy used. I'd have a hard time justifying 200-400 for a new shell strop when a 40$ Ebay wonder does it so well. I even bought a couple more after that one for bargain prices.

 

[shadowman12]

I can really recommend the strops from scrupleworks.

Sent from my SM-A505FN using Tapatalk

 

[RayClem]

That's what I mean, most of the information I get sounds like it's subjective, a question of personal preference, rather than fact.

I would rather bite the bullet and spend £200 on a strop, and learn to like it, than trying to find a bargain, always thinking there is something better out there, ending up with lot's of strops that seldom if ever gets used.

But then the cost should be justified by the quality of the product, and that's the part I would like to clarify if at all possible. It sounds like if you take good care of it, a strop can be a lifetime companion, getting better with use.

Are your current stropping skills suitable? Since you have been using beginner strops for a year, your stropping skills might be adequate.

When learning to strop, most folks nick or scratch their first strops when learning to time the flip. I know I certainly did. My shell cordovan strop cost about $250. Fortunately, I have not damaged it (at least not yet). If it were to get damaged, I would be heart-broken. Although I love my shell cordovan strop, I cannot say that it works any better than my other strops that were $100 or less.

When purchasing strops, there are considerations other than the type of leather. Some people like wider strops. Most of mine are 3" width, although some prefer 2" or 2 1/2". Some people like leather handles, some like D rings, some like barber style where you grip the leather between your thumb and fingers. Do not purchase an expensive shell cordovan strop until you know which design characteristics you prefer.

The Kanayama strops are all barber style strops, 65 mm (app. 2.5") width; I prefer 3" strops with either handles or D rings, so I am not interested in Kanayama, but others love them. It is all a matter of preference.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Furthering my research I came upon this article;

What does stropping do?

Stropping a blade on a clean (without abrasive) substrate achieves FOUR results: 1) REALIGNING THE EDGE Although a straight razor is made of hardened steel, the edge is flexible and malleable. Belo…

scienceofsharp.com

Certainly a revelation to me, I always wondered exactly what happens to the metal when you strop. I think most people think you are abrading the metal, like on a hone. I suspected that you are straightening the edge that may have folded over in some places on a microscopic level. It always puzzled me that a soft material can have a sharpening effect on a hard material.

Turns out you do both, and also coat the edge with some oil/organic matter that lubricates it. It also burnishes it, moving metal to smooth it without removing metal.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Are your current stropping skills suitable? Since you have been using beginner strops for a year, your stropping skills might be adequate.

The only time I nicked a strop, because of clumsiness and lack of muscle memory, was I think within the first two weeks.

After that, the only damage I inflicted was when I modified a Gold Dollar and the corners on the back of the French point was too sharply defined, and left deep scratches. I quickly softened the edges on a buffing wheel. Lesson learned.

 

[RayClem]

The only time I nicked a strop, because of clumsiness and lack of muscle memory, was I think within the first two weeks.

After that, the only damage I inflicted was when I modified a Gold Dollar and the corners on the back of the French point was too sharply defined, and left deep scratches. I quickly softened the edges on a buffing wheel. Lesson learned.

View attachment 1030115

Excellent! It sounds like you have very good motor skills. Time to get your "forever' strop.

 

[Slash McCoy]

I have been honing and shaving with straight razors for about a year and the one mystery that I am still trying to get my head around is strops.

Having spent money on all the other aspects of SR shaving, I feel that I need to know more before I start spending real money on strops. Not a lot of choices in the UK.

I currently own two strops, both would be considered budget strops. A short two inch Korium strop and a XL Windrose strop that is about four inches wide. I prefer the larger strop, but the problem with the wider one is that it is cupping, so lately I started using the smaller strop. After every shave I strop for about 50 laps on diamond pasted paddle, veg tan leather strop, and then before every shave I strop on the clean leather hanging strop for about 50 laps. Seems to do the job, so I genuinely don't know if an upgrade would be worth the money. I never strop on linen or any other fabric, just leather.

So here are the questions:
1) What are you looking for if you are looking for a good quality strop?
2) Why are some strops ridiculously more expensive than others? Do you get value for money spent? I have heard some sing praises for Kanoyama. What makes them special?
3) I see strops made from cowhide, horse hide, kangaroo, buffalo. What's the pro's and cons? What characteristic of leather make for a good strop? The softer the better? The thicker the better? If I want to make my own, what leather would I be looking for?
4) Is it just about personal preference, or is there some science to it?

The X Bay strop is not a quality strop and not a forever strop. It is a very adequate strop for a newbie on a budget, and at the price is very expendable but still usable. Compared to other sub $10 strops out there, it is good. Compared to the average $60 strop, it is lacking.

Your Windrose strop... is it sewn, or held together with chicago screws? If it is attached with chicago screws, even severe cupping can be remedied, assuming three or four, not two, screws are used. The method is to very slightly enlarge the outboard holes so the centerline holes carry more of the tension when pulling the strop tight. You can also fix a cupping strop, if it is not severely impaired, by cupping your hand over it and rubbing vigorously with pressure on the edges. Takes a while to have any effect. I find the best width to be just under 3" wide.

I don't really look for quality strops. I occasionally make one, and if it seems better than what I been using, it goes to the front of the hook. I like a strop with only two D rings attached, so it can go either end up. I don't care about fabric components. They give me no joy and are just in the way. I usually remove and toss them if I end up with one so constructed. I like plenty of length. 20" of usable length, minimum. I don't like to always be colliding the razor spine with the bolster pieces. I prefer chicago screw attachment rather than sewn.

Some strops cost more due to the use of rare materials. Genuine horse shell is expensive and hard to source. Ordinary cowhide in acceptable quality is easy to get and not expensive. I imagine kangaroo hide would be cheap where kangaroos are a nusiance and a varmint. Not so common or cheap in the US. Apart from leather cost and scarcity, hardware can add to the cost of a strop. I just made one with D rings that cost over $10 each. I have also made strops with D rings that cost less than a buck each. You can get silver or gold plated embossed head chicago screws or use fleabay specials. You can spend many hours hand rubbing a strop, or just paint it with your favorite dressing and let it hang overnight. So labor can vary greatly. You could mass produce strops with less than half a man/hour of labor each, or do them individually and devote an entire day to one strop.

Kanoyama are, I believe, horse shell and get a lot of attention in the making. They simply cannot be sold cheaply. Getting your money's worth is subjective and depends on what you value.

I like a leather that can take a glassy finish, and is fairly thick, about 10oz leather, but not like back brace thick, which is hard to bend over the D rings. For travel I would only use leatehr 6oz or thinner as it can usually be rolled and suffer no serious ill effects. Think "Valet Autostrop" strops. If you want to make your own strop, I suggest you start simple, with veg tanned cow leather. It is inexpensive and responds well to rubbing with pressure, which compacts and smooths the surface. 3" wide strips can be sourced easily. Allow for cutting off two 4" long pieces for the bolsters, which are end caps that pass through the D ring and are attached both ends to the end of the strop. "Better" than "ordinary" cowhide is bridle leather and the cost is not prohibitive, generally.

It is ALL about preference. Like I said, I have a cowhide strop that is a pleasure to use. Another that is meh. A buffalo strop that is probably going to become my favorite. A bunch of bridle leather that is waiting to be made into strops some day could win my favor eventually. I have some cheap Tandy cowhide strips, and some more buffalo, and some black oil tanned strops thick and thin. I will probably use the thick stuff for bolsters and the thin for travel strops or replacements for my hoe handle sets of various brands.

Draw is not entirely dependant on the leather. How it is treated makes a big difference, too, both by the maker and by the owner/user.

In the final analysis, a strop is just a reasonably flat, long, and wide piece of animal hide with some means of hanging it and pulling it tight that does not encourage cupping or humping or twisting. That's it. Overthink it at your wallet's peril. Then again, it is yours, and it is personal, and you shouldn't be shy about spending enough to get what satisfies you, if you are or wish to be seen as particular. You don't need an excuse or an enabler. Do it like you feel it.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Thank you for the comprehensive reply Slash.

Your Windrose strop... is it sewn, or held together with chicago screws?

Originally it was sewn, and I didn't like the cheap thin bolsters, so I took it apart and used three chicago screws to fix new bolsters I made from thick veg tan I had from making knife sheaths. The bolsters will certainly survive the strop and probably me as well.

very slightly enlarge the outboard holes so the centerline holes carry more of the tension

Great tip thanks! I was thinking of a way to remedy it, but the only solution I considered was wetting it and pressing it to shrink-dry flat to the original shape. If your method doesn't solve the issue, I still have the D rings and bolsters so I can easily remake a new one, it's just the leather is as soft as velvet after thousands of laps and it will be a pity to discard it.

it is yours, and it is personal

I think that sums up the thread so far. Think the bottom line from the replies is that the result will not differ greatly, on the shave. The difference will be in the actual feedback from the stropping, and the personal satisfaction you get from your strop. I am particular, but mostly in terms of function.That doesn't mean I would not enjoy a well crafted, good looking strop!

Talking of pretty.
I contacted Robert Malevski on Etsy and asked him to make me one of them, just a single, no cotton.
He readily agreed for a price that is not going to break the bank.
I am looking forward to trying it!

 

[Tester28]

I have a good feeling about Tony mIllers Premium steer hide old no 2.
Great Price as well.

Any feedback on that?

 

[RayClem]

I have a good feeling about Tony mIllers Premium steer hide old no 2.
Great Price as well.

Any feedback on that?

Tony makes some great strops. I have an Old No.2 in Fast Bridle Cowhide and another in Novotan Horsehide. They are both great strops. The leather is different in the steerhide, but the workmanship will be great. The fast bridle and horsehide strops both have a very fast, light draw. I suspect the steerhide has more draw.

 

[dundak]

As long as the leather is of decent quality it's all YMMV. I like 2" and narrower strops, Chromexcel cowhide and minimal hardware. Pricing is all over the map. Just stick with well known makers and focus on the dimensions, hardware and draw you like.