Derby and I never got along.
Shopping a razor to accommodate a bad blade is like the song verse;
These rose colored glasses
That I'm looking through
Show only the beauty
'Cause they hide all the truth
MM879
It was like trying to shave with a wire brush.
In which razor?
I believe it was a 23c
R41, Common Bar handle - Derby Extra.
Stirling Island Man.
Maggard synthetic.
49 hours since last shave.
Starting with the typical 3 pass shave, first pass N-S WTG/XTG. Second pass S-N XTG/ATG. Third pass and all cleanups done directly ATG.
Like I said in my first shave with my Grande and a Derby Extra, as soon as the razor moved I knew.
It tugged, considerably. No effortless full length strokes on this first pass. Two strokes over my cheek to my jawline and 4 strokes from my jawline to the base of my neck. Interestingly, as soon as the blade encountered my swirls, it skipped right over them, even leaving lather in the stubble. An adjustment in technique solved that however. I went a little shallower and increased the pressure considerably. That ended the skipping and minimized the tugging.
Rigidity doesnt make a shave more effective? I very much disagree.
Second pass S-N and still some very light tugging but not an issue and honestly, smooth sailing. Comfortable and easy. I buffed around my chin the same as always, a little over my swirls and even changed direction, painting lather with the comb and shaved over both swirls the opposite direction keeping to a shallow angle. No issues.
Third pass directly ATG, angle leaning more to neutral and steep than shallow now. Again no issues, nice smooth easy shave, very light buffing over my jawline both sides and my swirls again.
Wipe and check and not quite there yet, so I did one more clean up pass and finished with a very nice and comfortable BBS shave. No irritation or redness at all and my skin is cool and comfortable.
Now I'll say, Derby Extra is not a good match in this razor and using it has cemented what I've said numerous times about the many people that have tried them and dislike them. Use them in a rigid design! It makes a difference.
Using the same blade in my Grande its a 2 1/2 pass BBS. No tugging, no skipping. The difference in blade exposure between the two is minimal.
Not only does it make a difference with Derby Extra, but it does every other blade I've tried as well.
Rigidity. Makes. A. Difference.
Now I will also say, a sharper blade may very well eliminate the tugging and skipping I experienced, but at the same time, wouldnt a more rigid design also elevate that blade too? Yep, it would.
the shave on 72 hours of growth with a Derby Extra was incredibly smooth. At some points in the shave I couldn't even hear the blade cutting. The result was bbs and dfs on my neck with no feed back from Furbo Blu aftershave splash which is alcohol heavy imo.