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What Do You Use To Wipe The Blade Of Your SR?

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
tshirt, TP, or facial tissue. Not a big deal. And tissue is probably not more abrasive than diamond on balsa. Just a guess.
 
i just have one strop with one side leather other side cloth. after a shave i rinse the blade and i wipe the blade with a towel avoiding the edge. then i dry the edge with a computer duster or blow dryer. and i do a few laps on the leather and put it away. i have no pastes or anything like that yet. also im in the market for a proper strop. if i buy a finishing stone and use that and just the leather with no pastes, can get that dragon edge?
 
i just have one strop with one side leather other side cloth. after a shave i rinse the blade and i wipe the blade with a towel avoiding the edge. then i dry the edge with a computer duster or blow dryer. and i do a few laps on the leather and put it away. i have no pastes or anything like that yet. also im in the market for a proper strop. if i buy a finishing stone and use that and just the leather with no pastes, can get that dragon edge?
Yes you can. Coarser stones are only used during bevel set or to correct chips. Natural stones such as Jnat, Coticules and Arkansas are good finisher. a skilled mentor with chosen natural stone would be very beneficial (very steep learning curve depending on stone). Synthetics such as Shapton is also option with less of a learning curve and also the method used by Slash (lots of reading and things to consider, steep-ish learning curve).

I obtained a coticule that I am experimenting with, you can go from bevel set to finish on one ston using slurry and water combinations. Very smooth edges
 
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Yes you can. Coarser stones are only used during bevel set or to correct chips. Natural stones such as Jnat, Coticules and Arkansas are good finisher. a skilled mentor with chosen natural stone would be very beneficial (very steep learning curve depending on stone). Synthetics such as Shapton is also option with less of a learning curve and also the method used by Slash (lots of reading and things to consider, steep-ish learning curve).

I obtained a coticule that I am experimenting with, you can go from bevel set to finish on one ston using slurry and water combinations. Very smooth edges
thats pretty much what i want to do. i want to avoid pastes, for storage and keeping things clean, reasons. stone slurry and water then leather, is all you need, is what i read on a few custom razor makers sites. im not trying to set bevels or repair chips or anything like that. i just want to keep an edge goin until the next professional hone. once im a pro stropper and edge retainer, then i can dip into bevel setting and chip repairing. right now i only got that one strop. but im willing to invest upwards of 1000 to 1500 on stones and strops, to avoid pastes. also i live in southern California, and i store my razors outside the bathroom. so i need blade oil? i feel like this can get on the scales and ruin them. if i do though whats the best oil for that. i got a razor from shavesmith and it came with oil on it. also i got a razor from koraat and it came with no oil on it.
 
If your willing to invest a good chunk of money I would suggest getting at least a 1k and 3k along with natural stones. Good honing skills even if it“s just edge refresh is all experience based. Understanding how to set a bevel, control spine wear, pressure etc are required to understand how to do the refinement work.
 
Rinse under hot water, dry with the shaving towel (avoiding the edge of course), then I use a couple squares of TP for detail work. Then dozen passes on linen and few dozen on leather.
 
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After I wake up,
I strop, shower, shave, then strop again.

After I shave, before I strop again,
I wipe the blade with the shirt that
I was wearing when I woke up.
 
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