What do we really need out of a soap/cream?

[Pattorashu]

Performance and scent is tied for me in this competition, and post shave feel is a plus, but definitely not a necessity with my post shave skin care regime.

Luckily for me, the scents I enjoy include Arko, so I have a cheap, long lasting fallback until I find a new artisan soap or cream I love.

However, for me performance doesn't necessarily mean an easy lather, but rather a good one once the lather is perfected for that product.

You will probably enjoy your good soaps more if you alternate them with bad soaps. If two soaps are close, you likely won't notice the difference.

Here is an analogy to demonstrate the theory. Put your left hand in cold water and your right hand in hot water. Then put them both in lukewarm water. The left hand will think the water is hot and the right hand will think the water is cold. The more contrast there is in soaps, the better the better one will feel and the worse the worse one will feel.

You can use the same concept with razors and razor blades.

I'd rather not use bad soaps on purpose though.

 

[GaryTha]

I'd rather not use bad soaps on purpose though.

Bad doesn't necessarily mean a bad shave. Let's say I like menthol. If I use menthol for more than a few shaves in a row, I can't smell it anymore. Then I need a week or so with an unscented soap to smell the menthol.

 

[superbaaad]

You will probably enjoy your good soaps more if you alternate them with bad soaps. If two soaps are close, you likely won't notice the difference.

Here is an analogy to demonstrate the theory. Put your left hand in cold water and your right hand in hot water. Then put them both in lukewarm water. The left hand will think the water is hot and the right hand will think the water is cold. The more contrast there is in soaps, the better the better one will feel and the worse the worse one will feel.

You can use the same concept with razors and razor blades.

Haha, you're probably right. While I assume you meant this jokingly, I'd just prefer to not use bad soaps

 

[GaryTha]

Haha, you're probably right. While I assume you meant this jokingly, I'd just prefer to not use bad soaps

Actually, I was serious. Early this year I was using four lathering products. Below is a 10-day rotation. I would randomly change the order every 10 days.

Cremo dried quickly, and the smell gave me a headache. Barbasol shaved me well, but it burned my skin with everyday use. Foamy was great. Williams was the best. Finally, I ended up with Williams as my only soap for the last 229 days. It's the only one I plan to use in the future. Nothing else comes close. Like you said... I'd rather not use a bad soap. YMMV.

I did a similar comparison with blades and razors. Now, I'll use a single setup going forward.

 

[ScottChapin]

I just don’t get aerosols. They travel well. But they’re fluffy clay in a can to me. They don’t hydrate and they make a mess of your hands.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RigelDust]

Why not just rotate good with good? Just because my soaps are different it doesn’t mean some are “bad”. Hell I don’t know if I’ve shaved with the same soap two days in a row since I’ve started DE shaving.

 

[steveclarkus]

Hey guys,

I have been struggling with soap/cream acquisition recently. It's odd because I am generally a minimalist and over much of my life have been a one razor, one brush, one soap type of person. However, as I've delved deeper into the forums, I keep feeling like there must be something better out there and that I am missing out. I've tried several soaps/creams, many of them focused on the higher end because I assumed that higher price = better and price fortunately isn't too much of a constraint in my life today. These include: Saponificio Varesino, Grooming Dept, Nuavia, SMN, ABC, Trumpers, just to name a few.

However, I have this minimalist urge to purge and go back to one soap/cream and use it up before buying another. I want something that performs well (most of the soaps I've used perform perfectly fine) and smells inoffensive (subjective, I know). On the smell front, I don't need it be some incredible scent, but just not offensive or overpowering. For example, the SV scents are a little too much for me. I don't dislike them, but they just feel like "too much". On the other hand, I open the jar of SMN or Trumpers Rose everytime I see it to inhale.

This long ramble leads me to my question: What do we really need in a shave soap/cream?

I've generally seen folks categorize the needs as:

1. Shave Performance - this can include components such as ease of lathering, cushion, slickness
2. Scent
3. Post Shave Feel - I define this more as face moisturization, but perhaps there is more to it than that?

However, I almost feel like component 3 is irrelevant to those of us who use good facial care products post shaving and component 2 is only important for a few minutes as I typically apply a fragrance after getting dressed.

I already have a solid morning and nightly moisturization 'routine', so does it matter if my shave soap/cream has 30 ingredients that help the face stay moisturized all day. Two examples come to mind in Grooming Dept and SV. There are so many ingredients, all of them very high quality no doubt, but is this necessary in a soap that is applied for a few minutes just to be washed off? I certainly see the value in my moisturized that sits on my face all day having these fancy/high quality ingredients, but not sure about them in a soap. I think many of the ingredients do contribute to component 1 of Shave Performance, so those certainly make sense, but I'd imagine most are geared to component 3.

I see many comparison threads amongst the high end products, but I wonder, is a simple Speick cream with a quality moisturizer perhaps 'better' (or at least equal) to using a Grooming Dept (for example) with really high quality ingredients?

I struggle when I compare a relatively 'simple' ingredient list of an SMN/ABC/Speick vs the complex Artisans. My internal struggle seems to revolve around the beauty of a more simple product that "just works" vs. the feel that perhaps I am missing out on the newer/quality ingredients of the Artisans.

Thanks for reading my ramblings and sharing any thoughts you may have! Ultimately, I wonder if I should just get a tube of Speick, sell everything else and call it a day so I can stop obsessing

I have used many different soaps/creams over the past 55 years and haven’t found a complete failure yet. For the past several years I’ve just used various hard soaps and in this year mostly creams, my favorite being Kapo from Bulgaria (available on eBay). About three months ago, I bought the centennial can of Barbasol. On a whim, I tried it and now use it daily. It is the kindest of all to my skin, doesn’t require a brush and has a rather mild and lovely scent. I have no idea how long or if I go back to Kapo or Palmolive Classic creams but I’m quite satisfied with Barbasol for now. Soap is something I don’t get too hung up on. Now if I could only stop buying more straight razors.

 

[BigJ]

Interesting question!

Performance is the key for me. However, I break that down into several aspects:
1. Ease and quality of lather
2. Slickness
3. Cushion
4. Ease of clean up

Scent, post-shave feel, skin conditioning, etc are of secondary importance for me.

 

[Billy T.]

1. Scent
2. Slickness, including residual slickness
3. Protection

I don't get the "post-shave feel" argument. It only makes sense If you are not using an aftershave.

 

[GaryTha]

Seems like everyone wants slickness these days.

Could someone please define slickness? I know; it's a word seen in most advertising copy in some varied form of "My product is slicker than their product." Do we really need the slickest soap in the same way we seek out the slickest salesperson? Wouldn't slick enough be good enough?​

Looking back on threads from 10 years ago, everyone seemed to want cushion. What has changed besides advertising? "My product has more cushion than your product."

Does scent really matter? Come on, we have ARKO and Tabac. It's not a gamechanger. "My product stinks better than your product." These days, people don't want scents. They want fragrances.

Do we want ease of lathering? If so, why not use Foamy or Barbasol... eww, nobody wants goo, and that's the clue to what we really want.

We want a soap that will win approval when we tell others we use it.

"My product is highly regarded by the most sophisticated shavers. If I use this soap, I will be highly regarded by the most sophisticated people."​

 

[wmitchell]

To me it’s ease of lather and smell. I work long hours and a single dad. Not a lot of time in the mornings or evenings for that matter. Sometimes on the weekends I have more time. Other stuff means nothing to me. I feel even the cheaper products perform as well as higher end. For me that is of course. I’ve taken a liken to Haslinger. Love the smell and lathers like a champ. Weekday mornings though is Arko. Nothing faster in by book. Don’t love the smell but like it plenty. Just my two cents for what it’s worth.

 

[Atlantic59]

...I’ve taken a liken to Haslinger. Love the smell and lathers like a champ. Weekday mornings though is Arko. Nothing faster in by book. Don’t love the smell but like it plenty. Just my two cents for what it’s worth.

You can try putting Haslinger into a stick container, or just use the little puck like a shave stick. Haslinger sticks work extremely well with a lot of lather.

 

[wmitchell]

You can try putting Haslinger into a stick container, or just use the little puck like a shave stick. Haslinger sticks work extremely well with a lot of lather.

That’s a good idea. I never thought to do that. I will give it a try tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[Timeclo]

Seems like everyone wants slickness these days.

Could someone please define slickness? I know; it's a word seen in most advertising copy in some varied form of "My product is slicker than their product." Do we really need the slickest soap in the same way we seek out the slickest salesperson? Wouldn't slick enough be good enough?​

Looking back on threads from 10 years ago, everyone seemed to want cushion. What has changed besides advertising? "My product has more cushion than your product."

Does scent really matter? Come on, we have ARKO and Tabac. It's not a gamechanger. "My product stinks better than your product." These days, people don't want scents. They want fragrances.

Do we want ease of lathering? If so, why not use Foamy or Barbasol... eww, nobody wants goo, and that's the clue to what we really want.

We want a soap that will win approval when we tell others we use it.

"My product is highly regarded by the most sophisticated shavers. If I use this soap, I will be highly regarded by the most sophisticated people."​

Like everything in wet shaving, a lot of it is subjective. Here's my take on it.

Slickness is how easy the razor+blade glides on the skin when shaving. I could definitely tell the differences in slickness when I tried Gillette Foam vs. Artisan soaps. I have a level of slickness that I'm satisfied with but others want more. After a certain level of slickness, rest is preference.

Cushion... I realize that it's not much of a difference but just visuals and satisfaction for me. I'd much have a lather with good cushion rather than thin and dissipating lather but shave-wise, it can go similar.

Scent is actually a big factor for me. For example, Arko gave me a headache everytime I used it. I got used to it because now it sits on the bathtub as a cleaner but I just could not shave with it. There are couple other scents that I cannot get used to and I would not want to shave with those ever. I'm fine with neutral and mild scents but definitely not strong ones.

Ease of Lathering matters a bit. As long as it doesn't foam up into airy lather, I'm fine with it. But Barbasol isn't really a good comparison because it sacrifices all parts of a lather for just the ease of lathering.

Lastly, the approval of the soap is a big part of it, although some might deny. I see a lot of people using certain kind of soaps because other use it and love it. There is a part of connection to it and there is also a trend that follows it. I don't want to go with the trend just because others use it but at the same time, there are reasons why people love that brand of soap. For now, I'm satisfied with what I have but I don't see any reasons not to try out that new popular soap unless it's going to cost a fortune.

These are some of my thoughts.

 

[King-Joe]

Glide is very importand to me ! I learned to love my Arko Stick ! I take the aftershave for the good fragrance ! So I´m happy !!!

With kind regards King-Joe

 

[superbaaad]

Like everything in wet shaving, a lot of it is subjective. Here's my take on it.

Slickness is how easy the razor+blade glides on the skin when shaving. I could definitely tell the differences in slickness when I tried Gillette Foam vs. Artisan soaps. I have a level of slickness that I'm satisfied with but others want more. After a certain level of slickness, rest is preference.

Cushion... I realize that it's not much of a difference but just visuals and satisfaction for me. I'd much have a lather with good cushion rather than thin and dissipating lather but shave-wise, it can go similar.

Scent is actually a big factor for me. For example, Arko gave me a headache everytime I used it. I got used to it because now it sits on the bathtub as a cleaner but I just could not shave with it. There are couple other scents that I cannot get used to and I would not want to shave with those ever. I'm fine with neutral and mild scents but definitely not strong ones.

Ease of Lathering matters a bit. As long as it doesn't foam up into airy lather, I'm fine with it. But Barbasol isn't really a good comparison because it sacrifices all parts of a lather for just the ease of lathering.

Lastly, the approval of the soap is a big part of it, although some might deny. I see a lot of people using certain kind of soaps because other use it and love it. There is a part of connection to it and there is also a trend that follows it. I don't want to go with the trend just because others use it but at the same time, there are reasons why people love that brand of soap. For now, I'm satisfied with what I have but I don't see any reasons not to try out that new popular soap unless it's going to cost a fortune.

These are some of my thoughts.

That's a very well thought out response. I wasn't able to put a finger on what caused me to 'need' to try so many high end products recently but I think your last paragraph hit it on the head. It was more following the trend and to use a modern term, FOMO.

I think even though soap accumulation isn't the most expensive hobby one can have, there is a beautiful simplicity I'm striving for in finding the 'perfect' one option for myself and using it for a very long time.

 

[MntnMan62]

My expectations for a soap or cream are the same as the OP identified. I need something that will work up a nice lather that is slick and offers cushion. I need a nice scent as scent allows my shave to take me to another far away land. And I do like post shave feel because even thought I use alum and witch hazel and then a splash, a good moisturizing post shave feel from the soap/cream is critical to the other aftershave components.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

One other question is what do we not want a soap to give us?

To me, the number one answer to that would be I don't want soaps to dry my skin. I know drying might be a positive and beneficial effect in the eyes of guys with oily or normal skin, but not me.

Ease of loading and lathering? is that under the performance subset. Ghost lather (residual glide), same question?

I like major league post shave and post post shave and find Dragonsbeard to be #1 in this performance category, but I believe some soaps are in ballpark of being anti-post shave and anti-post post shave.

I want a great shave and I need everything available to make my skin better.

Scent is subjective of course. Tabac scent is evil and overpowering and I can't tolerate it. Otherwise I give only bonus points for great scents.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Timeclo]

That's a very well thought out response. I wasn't able to put a finger on what caused me to 'need' to try so many high end products recently but I think your last paragraph hit it on the head. It was more following the trend and to use a modern term, FOMO.

I think even though soap accumulation isn't the most expensive hobby one can have, there is a beautiful simplicity I'm striving for in finding the 'perfect' one option for myself and using it for a very long time.

FOMO is definitely strong within the wet shaving community. All the limited releases and people looking to buy that one specific product... I know I've been looking for a 2012 Semogue mistura brush for a while but no luck yet.

 

[razorhead63]

Three soap recommendations for you:

Cella
Cella
Cella

And don’t look back!