Tonight i made myself more enjoyable by getting to know my Ozuku Asagi and the new Tomo naguras. Overall, it went well, but there is still something to learn
What did you hone today?
- Thread starter ouch
- Start date
Was it flat when you got it or did it take some work? How'd it turn out? I like that oil can.
No, it took some work to get it right but at the price it was it was worth the work. When I measured the SG it measured the same as the Dans black. After I flattened it and treated the surface it gives a great edge.
The oil can is a new find
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The oil can is a new find
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Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
My latest stone acquisition is a ‘chocolate’ kiita, and it occurred to me that I have a ‘chocolate’ tomo. So of course I had to try out the combo, the red-scaled Filly got a touch up, 8k Shapton HC followed by the chocolate kiita and tomo.
I make quite a lot of knife handles out of the wood from 60 year old Syrah vines given to me by a friend who has a winery in the Barossa. Round at their house for lunch today so giving their knives a little touch up. First going to try their two mystery-Amazon-stones, with my SG 500 and Turkish for backup.
We have a big grape vine in the yard, and I pruned the S* out of it at the start of spring. It has been just sitting there ever since, and I was half hoping I killed it so I could harvest the wood. But I just checked it, and it is sprouting. Hopefully this year we get some grapes, at least.
First outting with a new (to me) coti. This one was courtesy of @cotedupy via BST and described as a fine grit coti. It’s early days but at this stage I’d have to agree with that assessment.
I filled in a few gaps in the glue joint with CA glue and sanded them down. Thanks to @timwcic for the tip. He could have told me to wear gloves! I then lapped the stone with a 400/1200 Atoma plate. As always, I gave the edges and corners a very slight rounding without eating too much into the surface. I’m starting to develop my own style for finishing stones and my chamfering technique is getting better and better. The stone has cleaned up quite nicely.
Then some additional surface prep because that’s a topic that I’m currently interested in. Once lapped to 1200 grit I did some further lapping on a similar sized La Vienette. I believe a little stone on stone action is benifital to remove the lapping plate scratches and expose some clean garnets that are unaffected by the diamonds. As a final step, I work hardened the surface by refreshing a vintage Sheffield chisel on the resulting slurry. By now the surface was flat as a pancake and silky smooth.
The TI did the honours. I like to match stones to razors and a French razor seems like a decent pairing for a Belgium stone (even if the C135 steel seems to love Arks). Finishing on Singer sewing machine oil sans slurry, the edge was fantastic. A very solid HHT. This was probably my best Coticule edge to date in that test. The stone seems promising as a finisher.
I originally bought this stone for the kitchen but it seems to be an excellent finisher. At 177x38 it’s also a nice razor size, narrow but with plenty of runway. I’ve been practicing with narrow hones and am starting to get a good feel for this width. I’m now thinking that this may be the perfect stone for the SR travel kit that I am putting together.
As always I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s shave and a week with the TI.
I filled in a few gaps in the glue joint with CA glue and sanded them down. Thanks to @timwcic for the tip. He could have told me to wear gloves! I then lapped the stone with a 400/1200 Atoma plate. As always, I gave the edges and corners a very slight rounding without eating too much into the surface. I’m starting to develop my own style for finishing stones and my chamfering technique is getting better and better. The stone has cleaned up quite nicely.
Then some additional surface prep because that’s a topic that I’m currently interested in. Once lapped to 1200 grit I did some further lapping on a similar sized La Vienette. I believe a little stone on stone action is benifital to remove the lapping plate scratches and expose some clean garnets that are unaffected by the diamonds. As a final step, I work hardened the surface by refreshing a vintage Sheffield chisel on the resulting slurry. By now the surface was flat as a pancake and silky smooth.
The TI did the honours. I like to match stones to razors and a French razor seems like a decent pairing for a Belgium stone (even if the C135 steel seems to love Arks). Finishing on Singer sewing machine oil sans slurry, the edge was fantastic. A very solid HHT. This was probably my best Coticule edge to date in that test. The stone seems promising as a finisher.
I originally bought this stone for the kitchen but it seems to be an excellent finisher. At 177x38 it’s also a nice razor size, narrow but with plenty of runway. I’ve been practicing with narrow hones and am starting to get a good feel for this width. I’m now thinking that this may be the perfect stone for the SR travel kit that I am putting together.
As always I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s shave and a week with the TI.
Esber & George Co. WARRANTED Eagle Razor on and old school Escher in the Barber’s Gem dimensions
The green Thuringian is large enough to finish on, but I use it as a rub stone.
Honestly, I have not given this Escher the chance it deserves. I got it right in the midst of being enamored with Ancient Ocean Jasper hones, and dipping my toe into the JNAT pool…it sort of got lost in the sauce!
The HHT was fine, I replaced the JNATie fine mist pattern on the bevel near the edge with a fine uniform scratch pattern, and the bevel near the edge is still a mirror. I will give this razor a turn later in the week after the Tanifuji Baba.
The green Thuringian is large enough to finish on, but I use it as a rub stone.
Honestly, I have not given this Escher the chance it deserves. I got it right in the midst of being enamored with Ancient Ocean Jasper hones, and dipping my toe into the JNAT pool…it sort of got lost in the sauce!
The HHT was fine, I replaced the JNATie fine mist pattern on the bevel near the edge with a fine uniform scratch pattern, and the bevel near the edge is still a mirror. I will give this razor a turn later in the week after the Tanifuji Baba.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Wow, lots of nice stone and steel gentlemen, keep ‘em coming!
I’ve been tinkering with a couple of razors in the ‘scale pail’ users mostly bought for the scales, but some are still sound razors in spite of the various insults that 150 years or so have thrown at them. The ‘celluloid’ scales on th Wade and Butcher are particularly nice, and the Brookes and Crookes is a finely made razor indeed. It might get an all-expense paid trip to Chez Alfredo to see how it turns out - pretty well I’d bet.
The B&C honed like a dream even after cleanup, Shapton 2k HR, 6k HC, JNat finisher and silent HHT. The W&B had a couple of little rust pits on the bevel, so a mellow 325 DMT followed by the same sequence produced the edge. Fortunately the W&B has plenty of belly to accommodate a little bit of metal removal. It didn’t quite HHT the way I’d like but I cannot see anything wrong with the edge, so I’m going to test shave and evaluate what if anything is needed.
I’ve been tinkering with a couple of razors in the ‘scale pail’ users mostly bought for the scales, but some are still sound razors in spite of the various insults that 150 years or so have thrown at them. The ‘celluloid’ scales on th Wade and Butcher are particularly nice, and the Brookes and Crookes is a finely made razor indeed. It might get an all-expense paid trip to Chez Alfredo to see how it turns out - pretty well I’d bet.
The B&C honed like a dream even after cleanup, Shapton 2k HR, 6k HC, JNat finisher and silent HHT. The W&B had a couple of little rust pits on the bevel, so a mellow 325 DMT followed by the same sequence produced the edge. Fortunately the W&B has plenty of belly to accommodate a little bit of metal removal. It didn’t quite HHT the way I’d like but I cannot see anything wrong with the edge, so I’m going to test shave and evaluate what if anything is needed.
I’ve been playing around recently with Washitas and washitas (in name only). Not getting the metal-eating characteristics that some people talk about (though they seem a nice mid range). This morning I made cardamom buns and was very unimpressed by my pizza cutter‘s inability to slice easily through soft dough. So I took a nice-sized vintage Smith’s Washita to the edge and watched the stone turn black in seconds when up against a soft steel. Few minutes work and the pizza cutter was in much better shape. Good to remember that stones are for honing more than razors - at least some of them are!
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timwcic
"Look what I found"
I never used gloves but do keep a small bottle of acetone just in case of a oppsie. Hope you still have your fingerprints. Glad it worked out
I had a pretty good oppsie. I was being cheap and used an old tube of CA rather than cracking open a new one. I squeezed the tube a little and nothing came out. I squeezed a bit hardener and a tiny drop started to come out. I squeezed a lot and suddenly half the tube came out all over my hands and sink. Oppsie!
Luckily it wasn’t on the stone or any other surfaces. Washing my hands with soap didn’t help much. Hand cream didn’t help much either. Eventually I filed of the worst bits with a nail file. A day later and it’s all flaked off of my skin. There some on my finger nails that’s not going anywhere in a hurry. I didn’t glue myself to anything so that was a win at least. We live and learn.
I ended up using a new tube for the stone and it worked well.
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I spent more than two hours using my Chosera 1k to set a bevel on a John Heiffor 5/8 near wedge I recently restored. The razor has a small smile. I used one layer of Super 88.
I started out with light rolling x-strokes to get the lay of the land. The apex began to form between the heel and the midpoint, and then a very thin line began to develop where the apex should form in the section marked in the below diagram. I tried everything I could think of to remove the line. Eventually, I backed off and gently worked both sides of the edge emphasizing the front face from which the thin line was visible, and got the edge to pass the tomato test but there is still a very short section that is not sharp enough for my taste.
I have seen this before but not for such an extended distance. Could this be the result of a warp in the blade?
I started out with light rolling x-strokes to get the lay of the land. The apex began to form between the heel and the midpoint, and then a very thin line began to develop where the apex should form in the section marked in the below diagram. I tried everything I could think of to remove the line. Eventually, I backed off and gently worked both sides of the edge emphasizing the front face from which the thin line was visible, and got the edge to pass the tomato test but there is still a very short section that is not sharp enough for my taste.
I have seen this before but not for such an extended distance. Could this be the result of a warp in the blade?
Interesting. Sounds like a low spot of some sort. I admit that in your position, I would just focus on that area, using pressure, hoping that the areas around would lower and let me touch the apex with the stone.
If it's only on one side, then try applying finger pressure in the spot when that side is on the stone, as you hone. I'm actually currently honing a razor for a member here that has that problem. Warped, but not so much that a finger on one side doesn't solve it.
Still, that's an odd low spot for a warp. Usually it's in the middle.
First time trying a pair of scissors. Used an old Norton India hone I got in a lot I purchased.
First post some pics of both sides of the razor.
Hard to advise based on a line drawing. It should not take 2 hours to set a bevel on a Chosera 1k.
Hard to advise based on a line drawing. It should not take 2 hours to set a bevel on a Chosera 1k.
@Herrenberg and @H Brad Boonshaft, Unfortunately, I don't have a good way to take a photo. The area did look slightly lower than the rest of the bevel. Perhaps I should have just applied more pressure and tried to power through it to lower the rest of the bevel. And I agree about the two hours. I have set many a bevel much faster.
Very good to hear it's gone to a good home, and Also that my suspicions it'd be rather a good rather a good razor hone proved correct
. Will be interesting to hear your thoughts on the BBW side; what do you think of the green bit? Like it, or going to lap through to the normal BBW...?
I did some more searching. My issue is called a false edge - see Bevel Setting - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/bevel-setting.597822/post-10979237 - and my experience backing off is consistent with what @Steve56 said on Clearing a false edge - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/clearing-a-false-edge.548812/post-9765005:
"False edges etc are caused by one or more of three things; too much pressure, too much time/too many strokes on one side of the blade, and aggressive stones. You can usually hone them off with super light pressure and flipping the blade each stroke. Try using a shorter stroke too."
After restoring a blade, I usually run the edge over a beer bottle before putting on my 1k, and I just realized that I forgot to do this with the John Heiffor. I am now thinking about strop on leather, examine, run over beer bottle, examine, go to 4k.
"False edges etc are caused by one or more of three things; too much pressure, too much time/too many strokes on one side of the blade, and aggressive stones. You can usually hone them off with super light pressure and flipping the blade each stroke. Try using a shorter stroke too."
After restoring a blade, I usually run the edge over a beer bottle before putting on my 1k, and I just realized that I forgot to do this with the John Heiffor. I am now thinking about strop on leather, examine, run over beer bottle, examine, go to 4k.
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