What did you hone today?

[timwcic]

Everyone is out of the house and finally quite. Time to work off the pumpkin pie and spend some quality time with the 1K. Setting the bevels on a Sheffield variety pack of near wedges, pair of W&B, a Wosty and a Southern & Richardson Finger Ring. Rolled, circled, and torqued a tree topping bevel out of them. Will go to the 3 and 8K next peaceful moment.

 

[RumpleBearskin]

Got to spend a little time in the stones today. Played with a W. Greaves & Sons FBU (pictured) that cooperated wonderfully after removing a couple of significant chips with the Norton 1k. Ran a Norton 4k, 8k, Naniwa 12k progression and then finished on pasted balsa.

Less cooperative was a Frederick Reynolds FBU near wedge with significant hone wear and a huge bevel. The edge seemed to sharpen up, but would never get to treetopping. Wondering about the geometry. May have to take some measurements and then make some adjustments...

 

[Dryphter]

Touched up 6 or 7 razors today. Mix of Naniwa 12k and a Thuringian.

 

[Steve56]

The Lakeside is the only one I own. They seem to bring a premium when they show up, so really a 0.85u Shapton Glass G7 is a better touch up hone, nostalgia notwithstanding.

 

[Willem-Jan]

Today I cheated on a stubborn Friodur I recently bought on the bay. The middle of the blade just didnt want to get sharp. I used the Titan denim strop with the Titan dressing and voila. Very sharp all the way.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Solid Comfort. German. Reminds me of the Torrey 136 blade. On the Double Convex Ark 8x3.

Hibbard Spencer, Bartlett & Co.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[ajduplessis]

Puma and helje 1k-5k-magical coticule. Getting them prepped to try out an arkansas stone I have in the mailView attachment 1028355

Puma is beautiful

 

[Steve56]

Today I cheated on a stubborn Friodur I recently bought on the bay. The middle of the blade just didnt want to get sharp. I used the Titan denim strop with the Titan dressing and voila. Very sharp all the way.

You might have a little frown on the edge - very light frowns can be hard to see sometimes. A Sharpie will tell you for certain.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

You might have a little frown on the edge - very light frowns can be hard to see sometimes. A Sharpie will tell you for certain.

Could you explain how?

I haven't figured out how to use sharpies to gather information.

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Steve56]

Could you explain how?

I haven't figured out how to use sharpies to gather information.

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim

Sharpie the bevel. Make 1-2 light strokes on a hone, making sure that you hit the entire bevel. The ink will remain in low spots.

Edit: be sure to use a very light, even stroke(s). Less is more here.

 

[Willem-Jan]

You might have a little frown on the edge - very light frowns can be hard to see sometimes. A Sharpie will tell you for certain.

Good idea, I will try that!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Sharpie the bevel. Make 1-2 light strokes on a hone, making sure that you hit the entire bevel. The ink will remain in low spots.

Edit: be sure to use a very light, even stroke(s). Less is more here.

View attachment 1043528View attachment 1043529

Thanks. I will try that. I'm not sure I understand it, but experience is a great teacher. I do understand what you're saying but not exactly how to use it or interpret the findings.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Steve56]

If you ink a surface (like a bevel) that has high and low areas, then rub the surface across a flat abrasive, the ink will be worn off the high areas while ink remains in the low areas because the flat abrasive is held off the low areas by the high areas. Don’t use your convex hone for this test.

The area marked by the arrow that has ink remaining is lower than the shiny areas of the bevel where the ink has been worn off. The ink remaining at the arrow means that there's a dip in the edge that a flat hone won’t easily reach. This is, IMO, the real reason for a convex hone, a convex or narrow hone can more easily reach into frowns or low areas.

Or you can always just use the corner of any hone, you don’t need convexity to hone a frown or dip.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

If you ink a surface (like a bevel) that has high and low areas, then rub the surface across a flat abrasive, the ink will be worn off the high areas while ink remains in the low areas because the flat abrasive is held off the low areas by the high areas. Don’t use your convex hone for this test.

The area marked by the arrow that has ink remaining is lower than the shiny areas of the bevel where the ink has been worn off. The ink remaining at the arrow means that there's a dip in the edge that a flat hone won’t easily reach. This is, IMO, the real reason for a convex hone, a convex or narrow hone can more easily reach into frowns or low areas.

Or you can always just use the corner of any hone, you don’t need convexity to hone a frown or dip.

I was trying to visualize how to use the sharpie and my convex stones, but apparently they're not a good fit (which makes sense to me).

If you ink a surface (like a bevel) that has high and low areas, then rub the surface across a flat abrasive, the ink will be worn off the high areas while ink remains in the low areas because the flat abrasive is held off the low areas by the high areas. Don’t use your convex hone for this te

I understand this in terms of warps in the blade (which have high and low areas relative to the surface of the hone).

I don't understand it (or the use of the sharpie) in terms of frowns where it would seem to me the frowns are neither high nor low relative to the the surface of the hone. I can also see that perhaps the frowns are just a smidgeon high relative the rest of the edge as the frown are slightly uphill towards the bevel. Is that the difference which would make the frowns show up?

Thanks and happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Steve56]

Everywhere that a flat hone doesn’t cut is lower than the areas that it does cut.

Frowns are low relative to the rest of the bevel. They’re further up the hollow than a flat hone will cut, the spine and the high areas on the bevel on either side of the frown hold a flat hone off the frown. If they weren’t low, a flat hone would cut to the top (toward the spine) of the frown.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Everywhere that a flat hone doesn’t cut is lower than the areas that it does cut.

Frowns are low relative to the rest of the bevel. They’re further up the hollow than a flat hone will cut, the spine and the high areas on the bevel on either side of the frown hold a flat hone off the frown. If they weren’t low, a flat hone would cut to the top (toward the spine) of the frown.

I'm confused.

It seems to me that the frowns are high relative to the rest of the bevel because they're further up the hollow.

I appreciate you helping me with this.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Steve56]

If a flat hone will not touch all parts of the bevel, the parts that it will not touch are low compared to the parts that it will hone. That’s what the ink is showing us. I can’t explain it any better than this.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

If a flat hone will not touch all parts of the bevel, the parts that it will not touch are low compared to the parts that it will hone. That’s what the ink is showing us. I can’t explain it any better than this.

I think we're on the same page but seeing it from opposite directions.

Thanks,

Jim

 

[Steve56]

Lol, could be! I think that maybe you’re confused because the images and descriptions aren’t consistent with a frown being high relative to the rest of the bevel. If you assume that a frown is low relative to the rest of the bevel, the images and descriptions should make more sense.

 

[*stefan*]

Heavy pitting on top of spine. Bevel angel 19,5. But gave it a run on a thuri and was rewarded with
a very smooth and fun shaver. This is the only really old razor( unless some framebacks has been very old) I have honed so far and is pleasantly surprised. But the steel is in very good condition except for spine and shunk. I'm thinking mix between a Bengall and a Heljestrand with a pleasant smiling edge.