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What causes redness/inflammation?

I've been working on getting an irritation-free, perfectly smooth shave on my neck for a few months now. I can get it smooth, but I have to do several rounds of ATG-buffing which gives me quite a bit of irritation, and takes several weeks of going without shaving to get to go away fully. So my question is: what exactly causes this redness? I've tried many different blades, including ones that are known to be sharpest. I've also tried perfecting my angle and switching to a high blade rigidity razor, the Gillette New SC.

If anyone knows how to get a completely smooth, irritation free shave please let me know what worked for you.
 
In regards to my neck: For me irritation comes from a combination of too much pressure, insufficient preparation, or some combination of both. It actually helped me to use a more efficient razor because a more efficient razor removes more stubble at a wider range of angles (this seems counterintuitive but seems to be true in my case).

For me the primary cause of irritation is using too much pressure. Very little pressure is actually required. Usually this is phrased as "no pressure," but what this means is "use the absolute minimum pressure required." Also, if you have insufficient lather, this can cause a problem when gliding the razor over the skin. I have found that good lather is quite wet and almost runny and provides sufficient slickness for the razor to glide without tugging.
 
Not going ATG works for me. Beard mapping and only going with and acoss the grain. Also, not being obsessive about BBS. Most days, I only get to DFS or DFS+. I'm OK with that. When I do hit BBS, it is nice, but a couple of hours later it is irrelevant...

Certainly, if you are buffing ATG, you are inviting some irritation.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
but I have to do several rounds of ATG-buffing which gives me quite a bit of irritation
You did not mention your razor used, If your doing a lot of buffing against the grain your asking for trouble I'm thinking.
You might need a slightly more aggressive razor & quality sharp blade(Gillette silver blue) to reduce the buffing. Stop going for the BBS and just focus on a DFS, 2 pass shave with some pick ups is all that is needed. WTG + ATG + pickups and walk away and see what happens.
Cold water rinse after each main pass to calm the skin down. Your skin is telling you are over shaving and to stop.

If you have to have a BBS shave or close to it just cheat a little by using a balm(Almond size dollop) like CeraVe moistening lotion and what it does is hydrates the top layer of your skin where the whisker root is deeper in so the whisker gets sunk a little creating a smooth surface about 1 hr after shaving has been my conclusion.
(Old archived photos taken years ago that I figured what is happening when using a balm. Pictures explain better when shown then I can explain sometimes.)
DFS.bbs  just after a shave! (2).jpg

Have some great shaves!
 
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You did not mention your razor used, If your doing a lot of buffing against the grain your asking for trouble I'm thinking.
You might need a slightly more aggressive razor to reduce the buffing. Stop going for the BBS and just focus on a DFS, 2 pass shave with some pick ups is all that is needed. WTG + ATG + pickups and walk away and see what happens.
Cold water rinse after each main pass to calm the skin down. Your skin is telling you are over shaving and to stop.

If you have to have a BBS shave or close to it just cheat a little by using a balm(Almond size dollop) like CeraVe moistening lotion and what it does is hydrates the top of your skin where the whisker root is deeper in so the whisker gets sunk a little creating a smooth surface about 1 hr after shaving has been my conclusion. View attachment 1605751
Have some great shaves!
In the post I mentioned that I'm using a Gillette New SC. Is that an efficient enough razor?
 
What other razors have you tried?

I have some issues with open comb razors, no matter the blade or prep.

That’s an unusual beginner razor so I‘m assuming you have something else as well?
Only other razor I’ve used is a Rockwell 6S which was too mild for me unless I dialed it up to the 5th and 6th setting, at which point the irritation was much worse. The NEW SC works much better for me.
 
Only other razor I’ve used is a Rockwell 6S which was too mild for me unless I dialed it up to the 5th and 6th setting, at which point the irritation was much worse. The NEW SC works much better for me.
Maybe not the best luck of the draw with razor choices? It happens to everyone.

The presentation angle of the blade with the New may work well for you, the open comb might just be a bit much for you I think.

I may try a solid bar Gillette to try to find an in between. The post wars may be too mild, the pre wars might work but require some attention to angle. An English flat bottom?

Someone may chime in with a good modern alternative. I recently tried a Wolfman WR2 and was amazed by how aggressive yet forgiving it was. That’s an investment though.
 
Age and general health are certainly a factor. At least for me. Recently, I started to use my injectors almost exclusively for the very reason the OP states. Long story but I developed a trouble spot on my left cheek about the size of a quarter. The skin over grows the follicles and it’s a pain. Has many dermatologists (Botox pushers) stumped.
One doctor said I have localized hypoxia on that spot which seems to be the best diagnosis. Anyway, I keep it covered with a small hydrocolloid or hydrogel patch and it seems to help. I’m going to start a regime of MSM and see if that helps. As far as shaving, the single edge injector is a huge plus for me and I get BBS most of the time as my problem area is confined to an easy section of my beard. Not to overstate the obvious, but good unrushed prep, a milder razor with no pressure and sharp comfortable blades, warm water not hot, and an AS and hydrating balm or lotion keeps the face healthy. Make sure you are drinking enough water. Good diet and no smoking has also helped me.
 
ATG-buffing
My neck is never a place I can get away with buffing. I have to just follow the passes and let the results be what they are. I often miss some stubble right in the center, which is where my skin is most delicate. On days when I think my prep and skin can support a closer neck shave, my three passes are:

N->S (basically XWTG)
S->N (XATG on neck, as I move up I change to more outward+upward diagonal so XTG on jawline)
and then S->N (not quite true ATG, leaning modestly-diagonally inward)

Also these passes don't apply near the apple, which I shave horizontally outward pass 1.

Other parts of my face are much more tolerant of buffing, especially my chin (which is good, because that's a very stubborn area for me) but I find with the passes I described, I generally get in the BBS ballpark after whisker retraction/moisturizing, with no major irritation or sting from alum.

smooth surface about 1 hr after shaving
This phenomenon emphasizes quitting the shave "while you're ahead" and not chasing every little bump--because in an hour, that stubble might not even be perceptible. I try not to overanalyze when I rinse between passes and lathering.

I have not used a NEW OC. If you're considering a different efficient-yet-still-comfortable razor, I have been thoroughly pleased with the RazoRock GameChanger .84P. The pricepoint is quite approachable.

Thank you @Fuzzy for the reminder to drink some dang water, I'm gonna do that right now :)
 
My neck hairs grow out from the Adam's apple toward my ears. Going WTG is awkward so I don't do that. I used to just go N-S but that still caused irritation and razor bumps. I now go S-N and my neck looks better. So, it's basically one pass XTG for me. I can't figure out how this pass has helped stopped the irritation since the N-S pass is basically an XTG pass, too, but it has.

I'm growing out my beard now, but my prep is still the same. I wash my face using a brush (just like I would be doing with a shave soap- except the whole face) and I wait with the lather on it until I'm done with everything else. Right now it's cheeks and trimming sideburns. The neck is always last with the hope of the beard getting more hydrated by the time I get to it.
 
I've been working on getting an irritation-free, perfectly smooth shave on my neck for a few months now. I can get it smooth, but I have to do several rounds of ATG-buffing which gives me quite a bit of irritation, and takes several weeks of going without shaving to get to go away fully. So my question is: what exactly causes this redness?

If anyone knows how to get a completely smooth, irritation free shave please let me know what worked for you.

I always do and what works for me is very short strokes on the neck the razor moves no more than an inch for every stroke.
I used to do long strokes from the bottom of the neckline right up to the jawline and that would sometimes result in irritation.
Shorter, more deliberate strokes give me more control and let me regulate the pressure I shave with.
 
As others have mentioned, preparation is very important. Just like a paint job, its is 90% prep and 10% execution. I find my most comfy shaves are after a hot shower. I also use shaving oil on my trouble areas (between lips and chin dimple). I am still experimenting with razor and blade combo's but using my 1963 Gillette Tech with an Astra SP blade has been my most comfortable shave yet and has made me rethink my desire and need for modern razors.

Also as @Ron R mentioned, "good enough" is a safe option. Knowing how irritation is not healthy for our skin, I try and stick to one pass shaves with spot touch ups. Alum after the shave will help the irritation heal while keeping it clean.
 
1. Too much buffing can cause skin irritation.
2. Too much pressure can cause skin irritation.
3. Pick a shaving soap or shaving cream that lubricates well (e.g. Mitchell’s Wool Fat if your water is soft, otherwise Haslinger Sheep Milk shaving soap). Many shavers overlook that too little lubrication can cause skin irritation.
4. Is you blade sharp enough? Dull blades can cause… (I guess you get it by now. :biggrin1:)
5. Do you have a quality (does not have to be expensive) razor and is it appropriate for your skills level? Some of the more aggressive (positive blade exposure, generous blade gap) razors can easily cause irritation in the hands of a novice. In case of adjustable razors, don’t be shy to dial back to a milder setting and slowly work you way up (over months) to stay within a comfortable setting.
6. Forget about aftershaves with alcohol for a while. Use creamy balms. Remember that your skin needs to heal first. You might try a small amount of one of those whitish baby creams with zinc overnight. (What works on a baby’s butt works also on my face.) They help the healing process.
7. Some shaving creams, shaving soaps, and aftershaves can contribute to irritation even if you are not allergic to them. (No, Proraso Green is in my book not all that it is cracked up to be :thumbdown). Get something that is dermatologically tested (e.g. Nivea).
8. Be patient. Rather settle for a shave below the Baby Butt Shave (BBS) level and practice. BBS will come with time, but you can’t rush things because that can cause… (I had to say it one more time :001_cool:)


Not sure if any of above applies to you, but I hope it is of some use at least.



B.
 

Ron R

I survived a lathey foreman
I've been working on getting an irritation-free, perfectly smooth shave on my neck for a few months now. I can get it smooth, but I have to do several rounds of ATG-buffing which gives me quite a bit of irritation, and takes several weeks of going without shaving to get to go away fully. So my question is: what exactly causes this redness? I've tried many different blades, including ones that are known to be sharpest. I've also tried perfecting my angle and switching to a high blade rigidity razor, the Gillette New SC.

If anyone knows how to get a completely smooth, irritation free shave please let me know what worked for you.
The New Gillette short comb is a efficient razor, tame Mid range to mid range depending on your technique used!
 
I have been wet shaving now for 10 years, and while I can sometimes get smooth, BBS on my neck, more often than not I can't without some irritation. Therefore, I no longer obsess over it.

You might just have to settle on a DFS under the neck.
 
I previously got irritation on my neck either side of my Adam's apple due to not adjusting the angle significantly after coming down from the face. With the handle now near enough pointing straight downwards, I rarely have any issues.
 
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