What am I Doing Wrong?

[alex2363]

Been at this for 3+ months now, and I'm overall satisfied, but not blown away. I need to be blown away. It's just who I am.

I keep a detailed log, and will continue to do so until I get this figured out. I've sampled many razors both vintage and modern, many blades (also vintage and modern), and many soaps and creams. I've learned a lot, determined that I greatly prefer a fine soap to a fine cream, can discern subtle differences between blades, and generally love the process.

My problem is that after 3 months I used a Mach3 because I was traveling and the shave was closer and smoother than anything I've yet experienced with a DE razor. I can get as smooth, but it involves too many passes and I end up beet-red. If I stop at two passes I get an acceptable looking shave, but it's not smooth enough for me at all.

I seem to have sensitive skin and I think I've grown to fear the irritation which keeps me from digging in, and digging in is the only way I seem to get close.

I've studied angle until my eyes hurt, and I've stopped shaving in the shower so I could hear the blade doing its thing. I've experimented with prep and good prep makes the difference between tugging and not for me. With a good prep and a good blade, it feels like the blade isn't there (awesome).

I've mapped my face which helped a great deal, but often when I go XTG or ATG on the second pass it sounds like the blade is cutting but it's not, or if it is, it's not doing much because there is little change.

My go-to setup is this:

Gillette Super Adjustable on 3
Gillette 7 O'Clock Black or Med Prep (best modern blades for me)
D.R. Harris soap (most hard soaps work well for me)
Pass1: WTG
Pass2: XTG/ATG depending on area
Pass3: Sometimes I'll do a 3rd pass of buffing to try and get smoother

I've tried dialing up the Adjustable, but didn't like the feel. Bad technique? If so, how do I fix it?.

Prep is Noxzema on my face before shower, which is washed off last thing in the shower. I don't dry my face, but go right to shaving. I've also tried Nivea moisturizing cream which seems to work well (I don't like menthol).

The emotional side of my brain loves the process and the ritual. The scientific side of my brain is starting to protest that I'm spending too much time and effort to get a result that doesn't match what I used to get with the Mach3.

How do you dial up the adjustable. ?