ok so it is going to be a 3 inch blade lenght. the top of the blade will be 3/8 and 3/16 at the pivot. oh and the material is 01 tool steel, and the blade width will go for the record at 16/8, why? because i can lol. but what type of grind should i give this blade. it just seems like the bigger razors are wedge
wedge or hollow grind for a big blade razor
- Thread starter Nanewt02
- Start date
nice... a 2" blade... lol.. i have a 12/8ths...
just from personal experience give it at least a bit of a hollow.... a true wedge is a biotch to hone....
and in case i need to say it "PICS!!"...
best o luck...
I am a wedge freak so you know what I would say lol. Plus I would thin, grinding hollow would be harder. Though I am learning nothing about making a razor is easy ha ha! good luck with your project. When ya going to start it? Take lots of pics.
- Thread starter
- #4
hillbilly has a point. for simplicy sake i think il start with a wedge for now. then when i have more time and money, il make a version of it with the full lower inch hollow ground . im going to make a special hollow grinder eventually. and anyone know where i can get some carbon fiber for scales.
.. for cheap
.. for cheap
Make it a wedge, that will be much easier. Initial sharpening will take days on a 325 DMT, but eventually you will get there. Hollow grinding a 16/8 razor isn't easy without experience.
I don't know what you consider cheap, but you won't if d it much cheaper than here.
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=95_36
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=95_36
As long as you realize that 16/8's is not going to be functional, have fun. To clarify, very few razors made after the 1700's are true wedge blades. They are all ground on wheels of varying diameters, making the majority of razors... wait for it... hollow ground. Most were ground on a set of wheels that opposed one another to keep the sides of the blade symmetrical. Additionally, a safe ratio of width to spine thickness is:
.25 X (width)
Hence a blade that is 8/8's, or, 1 inch, then the thickness would be .25 X 1 = .25 ( a quarter inch thick )
A blade that is 6/8's, or 3/4's, to a reduced fraction, would be: .25 X .750 = .188 ( 3/16's thick)
You'll find most razors will be pretty darn close to those measurements... at least the ones that shave real good.
All that being said... the razor you plan on making at 2 inches wide will have to be 1/2 inch thick to have the proper width/spine ratio.
I think I'd like to take some odds in Vegas on the success of this heavy-duty project, but I'll try to keep an open mind on your progress. Good luck with it.
.25 X (width)
Hence a blade that is 8/8's, or, 1 inch, then the thickness would be .25 X 1 = .25 ( a quarter inch thick )
A blade that is 6/8's, or 3/4's, to a reduced fraction, would be: .25 X .750 = .188 ( 3/16's thick)
You'll find most razors will be pretty darn close to those measurements... at least the ones that shave real good.
All that being said... the razor you plan on making at 2 inches wide will have to be 1/2 inch thick to have the proper width/spine ratio.
I think I'd like to take some odds in Vegas on the success of this heavy-duty project, but I'll try to keep an open mind on your progress. Good luck with it.
Pearls of wisdom here.
But, if it doesn't shave it will be awesome in the kitchen. I say go for it. The worst that will happen is you will make a cool little cleaver.
It is going to be heavy
- Thread starter
- #10
oh it will be functional. its a pretty ergonomic design so i think it will work. theres a 13/8 razor floating around the web thats reported to gibeexcellent shaves. and as far as thickness, it will be 3/8 . it will keep it thin and easier to use. i am making special metal pieces that clamp onto the spine so it will give the edge the right angle, and the best part is that there will be no hone wear on the spine as a result.
