What are the pros and cons of using a wedge instead of a spacer?
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks,
Paul
Wedge in scale or not?
- Thread starter BakerAndBadger
- Start date
i have made them with both spacers and wedges without problems. some say that wedges are best and they may be. i just like using spacers. YMMV as always. i do not claim to be an expert in any area. tom
Here is a great post by Bill Ellis. I said before he has forgotten more about making straight razors that most of us will ever know.
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/183681-Tapered-Wedges
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/183681-Tapered-Wedges
If your using a natural material i would think the wedge would be best to keep the bow in the scale a constant. Less chance of fractures and warping ,especially in thin scales. Jmo though.
I do both. Usually, I try to taper them but in some cases, I've used a flat wedge and it still worked fine. The material for the scales lent itself to the flat style. Bill's explanation is great and a very worthwhile read.
Flat wedges are easier and if done correctly, don't seem to affect the price of eggs with my scale material. YMMV.
A good thing about tapered wedges is that you don't have to worry as much about the wedge slipping around. The taper locks it in place. Since you can leave it floating you can do minor adjustment while pinning so the razor will center correctly. You can still do it with a fixed wedge (adjust before it all sets up) or by being pure of heart.
I have mostly noticed an improvement (by using a wedge) on razors with thick tangs & spines. It allows the scales to bow out a little to accommodate them while putting a little tension on it so the blade doesn't swing around too freely if that makes any sense at all. I'm no expert for sure...I don't remember what the Bill Ellis article said (or what I had for breakfast this morning) but I remember it made sense at the time
Also, for what it's worth, I have only done three or four with wedges and none of them have been at a perfectly even angle or anything. I was a little worried that would affect the blade centering correctly or just look weird but so far so good.
Also, for what it's worth, I have only done three or four with wedges and none of them have been at a perfectly even angle or anything. I was a little worried that would affect the blade centering correctly or just look weird but so far so good.
- Thread starter
- #7
Cool, thanks for all the input guys. My first wedge worked but took a while with dremel and sandpaper to get it right, was in acrylic which seems to be bloody hard and I think it may be a little thick at 3mm but that's anther story. From what I've read I could probably get away with spacers in acrylic but why not practice now when it's cheap material I'm using before I move onto more noble materials!
I got lazy and made my last GD restore with just a spacer. When it was all put together I had issues with the tang preventing the razor from closing quite right, and I had to make adjustments. I make wedges with a Dremel and sandpaper as well, and it is a PITA. But the overall fit of the finished razor is usually a lot better in the end.
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- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks Legion, it seems you are fast becoming my SR hero! Don't worry I won't stalk you but thanks for the great SBS on scale making and peening.
i find wedges work better and alot of straights have a tapered trigger, SO the wedge creates a "wishbone" effect and eases the scales to flow with that taper, when pined -- , it puts less stress on the scales , in the closed position and tightens less as you open and then less stress again in user position, VS a stress sitiation in the closed position and the thicker part of the taper (near the shouldler) rubs against the scales, my 2 cents
Go wedge or go home.
My pleasure.
