Decided on whipped dog silvertip just about to order and its down to figuring out whether to go for the 22mm or 24mm knot I'm gonna get it drilled down. Larry at WD said to go for a loft of 45mm
If you're going down to the full 45mm, I would highly recommend the 22mm knot. A 24mm knot with a 45mm loft would be extremely low and, IMHO, uncomfortably firm, particularly with a WD bulb knot. Unless you are very experienced and precisely know your knot preferences, a loft less than double the diameter of the knot it not recommended. A knot to loft ratio of 1:2 to 1:2.2 is a common standard. If you choose a 24mm knot, a 48-50mm loft would be ideal if you like a firm brush.
Do you like to face lather? If so, you MAY want a firmer brush (I personally like to face lather with a softer brush).
I own two WD brushes (among a number of others), both with a 22mm knot, and lofts of 45mm and 50mm. The 45mm loft is very firm, and I only use it when I feel like a good scrub. I believe it too low a loft to comfortably bowl lather. Conversely, my 50mm brush is one of my favorites and constantly in my rotation.
If you want a versatile brush, not too firm and not too floppy, with both firmness and comfort if you bowl lather, I would recommend either:
1. A 22mm knot with a loft from 48-50mm; or
2. A 24mm knot with a loft from 50-52mm.
Both the 22 and 24mm knots are considered "medium" size, and should work equally well. Remember, larger is not always better. Many experienced members prefer smaller knots, particularly those who face lather exclusively and like the control of a small knot.
I face lather with a crappy old no name brush at the moment but I'm looking to see what works for me
never tried bowl lathering but will definitely give it a try
So i need something that will work well with everything, face lathering/bowl lathering/creams/hard soaps
is there a sweet spot?
Get a medium sized handle, not too short, not too long....like this one R24BK, R24GB or R24WH. for $30 shipped, they look to be nice brushes and won't break the bank if they don't work out.
If you want to restore one yourself, you can play around with loft before setting it. I had set mine a few times with hot glue before settling on the loft of 49mm.
as always, these brushes are natural products and vary from batch to batch, so one brush may perform like a champ at 48 and the next like a dud.
A 22mm silvertip brush with a 48-50mm loft should certainly meet your needs and be quite enjoyable. I believe that most would agree that a WD with these specs would be considered a well-rounded brush as you begin to explore your preferences.
I would also choose the 22mm over the 24mm if you're used to face lathering. A soft WD silvertip with a medium loft in 24mm might feel a little "big" on your face and be slightly messier than the comparable 22mm.
Whatever size brush you choose, as long as it is within the reasonable guidelines proposed by myself and others, will yield a terrific brush.
This one just arrived this week. It is a 22mm set at 49mm in a dark blue firehouse pottery 2 3/4" handle. It's still new enough to smell a little funny, but already a great brush.