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Washita Thread. Show off, discuss, etc.

Extremely blushed pike rosy red.
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Yeah it had the side and end labels. The end label was in a big cake of oil and beyond saving, unfortunately. Getting that stone out of the oil without ruining the back label was like an archaeology dig, slow and painful.
 
Umm... well the classic one is the Mohs hardness scale which is done by seeing what something will scratch and what it gets scratched by. Silica / quartz has a Mohs hardness of 7; it will scratch minerals below that, but not those above, which will scratch it.

That doesn't massively help us with natural whetstones though, because it doesn't give an indication of how hard the structure of the stone is. A soft ark and a translucent can both be effectively considered to be 100% silica, but the trans is more novaculite-y, with a tighter, firmer, cryptocrystalline bond. Which makes it less friable, even though the Mohs hardness of their mineral composition is 7 in both cases.

I'm sure there are standardized tests for friability, which might involve how quickly something can be abraded by a particular substance. What loss of weight is experienced after five minutes on a diamond plate at consistent pressure, type thing.




As I said, it's probably best to think of all Arkansas stones (and other novaculites) as being 100% silica, with the hardness of the stone's structure being a separate property. But even apart from that - no this probably isn't a good assumption to make, because silica isn't particularly heavy, especially for how hard it is.

Little bit o' googling and these are the 6 most abundant minerals in the earth's crust, the first number(s) are SG, the second number(s) are Mohs. You can see that most of the others are heavier than silica, while not being as hard.

Feldspar: 2.6 / 6
Silica: 2.65 / 7
Pyroxenes: 3-4 / 5-7
Amphiboles: 2.9-3.6 / 5-6
Micas: 2.76-3.2 / 2.5-4
Olivene: 3.2-4.5 / 6.5-7





Yes, this is precisely correct.

It can get slightly muddied in terms of old Washitas, because you can get very porous but non-friable stones that are still astonishingly quick with SGs around 2.3 - 2.35, and then finish exceptionally fine because they're hard too.

But yeah - what you've said there is basically exactly right in terms of how I perceive / understand things.
As a continuation of this.... the most sought after stones(for razors but desired grit finish is all that changes for different blades most of the time) are ones that are very hard, fine, and friable. Friable+hard= fast and awesome(some washitas, soft coticules or soft Charnleys/ LI). So stones that are very hard, fine, and friable but durable unless under pressure(majority of washitas, some coticules and jnats) are the stones that usually have RANGE. It's not hard to figure out with basic observation but it's obvious when you rub your stones a lot 😉.
 
As a continuation of this.... the most sought after stones(for razors but desired grit finish is all that changes for different blades most of the time) are ones that are very hard, fine, and friable. Friable+hard= fast and awesome(some washitas, soft coticules or soft Charnleys/ LI). So stones that are very hard, fine, and friable but durable unless under pressure(majority of washitas, some coticules and jnats) are the stones that usually have RANGE. It's not hard to figure out with basic observation but it's obvious when you rub your stones a lot 😉.


I use the words ‘hard’ and ‘friable’ effectively as antonyms when talking about stones. i.e. soft stones are friable, hard stones are not.

(Though it probably isn’t quite as simple as that. Any sedimentary or foliated stone can be hard in one direction and soft in another. Stones can also exhibit different degrees of hardness / friability depending on what they’re doing. Certain stones can be relatively hard under steel but soft under diamond. Tams and many jnats might be a good example of that.
 
Dang sir, that's a looker.i like the reddish hard ones better than the white hard ones I've only used whitish olds ones that were really soft(looked structure like that) and they were amazing. It seems from the stones I've used that the red ones polish better(iron oxide?) And usually seem finer. You should make a video of you sharpening a very dull pocket/kitchen knife on it. I love using the really old soft ones to make a slurry on hard novaculite(better than my Cretan even). Good job.
 
I use the words ‘hard’ and ‘friable’ effectively as antonyms when talking about stones. i.e. soft stones are friable, hard stones are not.

(Though it probably isn’t quite as simple as that. Any sedimentary or foliated stone can be hard in one direction and soft in another. Stones can also exhibit different degrees of hardness / friability depending on what they’re doing. Certain stones can be relatively hard under steel but soft under diamond. Tams and many jnats might be a good example of that.
I do exactly the same, my friend, when describing stones. I just wanted to break it down for those lurking. It was something I didn't really understand until putting knives on these different stones. Before I started sharpening razors I sharpened every blade I owned on arks, but I will be forever greatful to this place because it probably put another 10 years of use into my hands by learning the science behind sharpening and abrasives. That's no little thing. I have an overwhelming appreciation for the learned masters here, I'm young and it sucks my hands are failing already, thanks for the save guys.
 
I have one that's almost that red... but no label and it was broken in half when I got it. I wedged it into a tight case and it's my GO TO stone for knives that need a good bit of work (but not quite regrinding). It's a miracle stone. From can't cut butter to damn near kitchen sharp on almost anything in seconds. And no label/break means it's worthless so I don't feel bad about using it either.
 
As a continuation of this.... the most sought after stones(for razors but desired grit finish is all that changes for different blades most of the time) are ones that are very hard, fine, and friable. Friable+hard= fast and awesome(some washitas, soft coticules or soft Charnleys/ LI). So stones that are very hard, fine, and friable but durable unless under pressure(majority of washitas, some coticules and jnats) are the stones that usually have RANGE. It's not hard to figure out with basic observation but it's obvious when you rub your stones a lot 😉.
I have another that may be a rrw but missing back label but had others. Been using that for touch ups occasionally
 
Yep!

And Yep!


Nice one, I might've snapped that up myself if I'd noticed it!

Here's another interesting UK label of a Pike No.1 that comes up occasionally (which I steamed off today so I could soak the stone). No mention of Pike anywhere on it, except for the line at the very bottom assuring you that: PIKE'S STONOIL IS BEST

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My newest and cutest stone to date, the Norton Sportsman Stone Washita/India combo WIP13. Thanks to @cotedupy for noticing it. A massive 1" x 3"! The washita is the translucent stone with small air bubbles variety which is my favorite. If I ever get to go backpacking again it'll be the perfect stone to bring along based on the lightweight.

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My newest and cutest stone to date, the Norton Sportsman Stone Washita/India combo WIP13. Thanks to @cotedupy for noticing it. A massive 1" x 3"! The washita is the translucent stone with small air bubbles variety which is my favorite. If I ever get to go backpacking again it'll be the perfect stone to bring along based on the lightweight.

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Nice! Looks more Washita-y than the Washita on mine. Also - my coarse India side is Red.
 

Legion

Staff member
My newest and cutest stone to date, the Norton Sportsman Stone Washita/India combo WIP13. Thanks to @cotedupy for noticing it. A massive 1" x 3"! The washita is the translucent stone with small air bubbles variety which is my favorite. If I ever get to go backpacking again it'll be the perfect stone to bring along based on the lightweight.

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Nice. I want one.

I have a 9' W-stone that looks almost like that ones father.
 
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