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Vudoo build... The Hows and the Whys.

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
So we all know I am getting a Vudoo Three60 for a 50th Birthday present (along with a Bison Hunt AND a PSA test AND a coloscopy so don't getting all jealous! There are ups and downs! :lol: ) Anyways... It posed to me to start a thread of the whys, hows, and whatfors so I though I would start with the gear I have or is definitely inbound and breakdown my choices and why I chose what. Lets begin...
The Vudoo Ravage...
Ravage.PNG

So the Ravage line is Vudoo's adjustable stock rifles (The Apparition is there chassis line) while the Sinister is a traditional hunting stock and the Crow is for the wee ones. It matters not but I do find myself liking stocks more these days and the M-Lok rails are nice for adding bits like weights, QD cups, and the such. I could have gone with a Grayboe Renegade but I like the butt hook better on the Ridgeback, nothing more. As for why I chose the Vudoo? It is a done deal and ready to rock. More on that in a moment but If I had a lathe and liked to experiment I would have gone with the RimX as it runs a Remage style action (R700 action with a Savage style barrel nut for head spacing). A friend of mine has gone that route I get why. He is currently spinning up a straight taper 1:10 to 1:11 gain twist barrel and has the ability to cut from the bore end to speed up the twist when the bullet leaves or from the chamber end to speed up when the bullet starts. He is also running handloaded 42gr solid copper spire points. This is all beyond me of course. I just want to shoot off the shelf stuff so a single point rifled 1:16 is just fine. As for the action itself... I'll let the designer Mike Bush explain...
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Are you going to use it for the buffalo hunt? :biggrin1:
Might as well just walk up and wack him over the head with the rifle! The outcome would be the same! The Buffalo doesn’t care and I get stomped! 🤣
 
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nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Part II... The Scope!

Tough call but I went with a Nightforce ATAC-R F1 5-25x56 with a Mil-XT reticle. The reticle is a Christmas tree style is a must for me because, well, I like weaponized math! Let me explain. The beauty of a FFP scope is that ranging is easy. Thru the wonders of math if I have a range I can ascertain target height. Conversely if I know target height I can measure range. "Well.. That's great but you can do that with out the gawky reticle you chose. This is true but here is where the weaponized math comes in again. Every hear some mention that they have a 6MPH gun? Think they were nuts? Not so much. With a little fact finding you can determine how much windage hold you need for a certain wind speed. That 6MPH gun. It needs 1MIL of hold per 6MPH of wind speed at a given range. It just makes wind calls way faster! The other plus of the Christmas tree reticle. If you ever have an "evil" MD design a "no touch" stage aka you have your zero and you are not allowed to dial as your target ranges change the Christmas tree really helps! As for the scope itself? Well it has lots of bells and whistle which are cool but I think Nightforce is one of the few scopes I could take off a rifle, use to hammer a nail through a 2x4, put it back on and not lose zero! Plus I wanted some Alpha tier glass :lol:

And for those asking "Why the 5-25 and not the 7-35?". Well, the first is 35MRADS of dial versus 29 for the higher magnification. That's 500 yards of dial versus 400. Another decider was that the bigger brother has some tunneling issues at the lower magnifications.
ATAC-R.PNG
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Part III The Rings...
ARCm-10.PNG

Went with American Rifle Company M-10 rings. Love mounts like Sphur (but stupid tall and I'm not shooting a bazooka that needs that beast of a mount) and rings like the Vortex PMR but I have to take pause with the multiple screws. Don't enjoy getting the ring gap even side to side while torqueing and application of said torque seems to rotate the scope during the process. This can be overcome by installing one right completely and then tightening the other but you are either going crazy watching a level or trying to unstick a scope leveling tool (like Arisaka). The M-10s are one base bolt (55in/lbs) and one ring bolt. As they come together in the clamshell fashion there is no lifting or twisting of the scope. Again, personal preference and I like the owner and what he is doing for the sport (Check out the ARC Xylo chassis).
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Part IV The Accessory rail...
Pic rail or ARCA? M'Lok mounts or drill and thread t-nuts? Well the second part is a no brainer. I ain't drilling nothin'!!! As for Picatinny or ARCA I am a fan of ACRA these days. Why? Not so much quick change as quick adjustability. As ARCA uses a dovetail style system adjustment so movement for and aft is as quick as flipping a lever (or turning a knob), sliding your device and locking the lever. "Well that's great." you say "Why?" Consider this, I am shooting with the bipod all the way to the fore and see something than needs shot (This isn't just a rimfire analogy) further out with with more elevation. Pic rail? I'm fiddling with leg extensions or trying to move down X numbers of slots. ACRA? Unclamp, slide the bipod back, and re-clamp. Is stability effected? Yes. I would be better off rebuilding my position. Did I lose that 12 point in the brush trying to adjust my bipod? No. I went with a Sawthooth Rifles Dependabilt as it is designed to replace the M-Lok adapter pockets in the stock. Do I know it's straight? Yep! Do I know it's level? Yep! Does it make an AWESOME bash plate for my rifle? Absolutely! Can I hang lots of stuff off it? Sure... Barricade stop? Check. Plate with a bag? Yes. Still leave the bi-pod on? Affirmative!
View attachment 1356634
Well that's all I have for now. As more bits arrive I will catalog then and why they made it on to the rifle. I will say all this lends itself to more of a PRS style rifle but it will see action in the squirrel wood and maybe on some sucking pigs someday...
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
Thanks for the thread, helps put things in perspective and provides a basis for learning the finer aspects of PRS rimfire. I will be following this thread with interest!
 

simon1

Self Ignored by Vista
Might as well just walk up and wack him over the head with the rifle! The outcome would be the same! The Buffalo doesn’t care and I get stomped! 🤣

I was only half-way kidding. I worked in packing houses for a few years and put down 2,000 pound Brahma bulls with a rusted, short barreled, single shot .22 rifle.

But the range was only about two feet.

It CAN be done.

Keep up the posting on the build.

And don't forget to post on the buffalo hunt. I've had a big arse buffalo bull follow my truck back to the pasture gate...at a gallop. Them suckers are BIG.

And don't forget the range pics. of the one hole groups.
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Thanks for the thread, helps put things in perspective and provides a basis for learning the finer aspects of PRS rimfire. I will be following this thread with interest!
It will be a journey for all of us. I've never done a custom exactly how I wanted it before.
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
I was only half-way kidding. I worked in packing houses for a few years and put down 2,000 pound Brahma bulls with a rusted, short barreled, single shot .22 rifle.

But the range was only about two feet.

It CAN be done.

Keep up the posting on the build.

And don't forget to post on the buffalo hunt. I've had a big arse buffalo bull follow my truck back to the pasture gate...at a gallop. Them suckers are BIG.

And don't forget the range pics. of the one hole groups.
100% on all of the above. Not sure I want to square off with a big bull at 5 feet! Especially on open range but to say you took a Bison with a .22LR? Legendary for sure! I'd still feel safer with my AR-10 at 100 yards! :lol:
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
So we all know I am getting a Vudoo Three60 for a 50th Birthday present (along with a Bison Hunt AND a PSA test AND a coloscopy so don't getting all jealous! There are ups and downs! :lol: ) Anyways... It posed to me to start a thread of the whys, hows, and whatfors so I though I would start with the gear I have or is definitely inbound and breakdown my choices and why I chose what. Lets begin...
The Vudoo Ravage...
View attachment 1356616
So the Ravage line is Vudoo's adjustable stock rifles (The Apparition is there chassis line) while the Sinister is a traditional hunting stock and the Crow is for the wee ones. It matters not but I do find myself liking stocks more these days and the M-Lok rails are nice for adding bits like weights, QD cups, and the such. I could have gone with a Grayboe Renegade but I like the butt hook better on the Ridgeback, nothing more. As for why I chose the Vudoo? It is a done deal and ready to rock. More on that in a moment but If I had a lathe and liked to experiment I would have gone with the RimX as it runs a Remage style action (R700 action with a Savage style barrel nut for head spacing). A friend of mine has gone that route I get why. He is currently spinning up a straight taper 1:10 to 1:11 gain twist barrel and has the ability to cut from the bore end to speed up the twist when the bullet leaves or from the chamber end to speed up when the bullet starts. He is also running handloaded 42gr solid copper spire points. This is all beyond me of course. I just want to shoot off the shelf stuff so a single point rifled 1:16 is just fine. As for the action itself... I'll let the designer Mike Bush explain...

Yeah, he's pretty much a genius. Here he is showing off his personal rifle.

 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Yeah, he's pretty much a genius. Here he is showing off his personal rifle.

Love the 40X Mafia comment. I have chatted with a few of those cats about Vudoos before. Can't imagine what would have happened if Remington had jumped on it!
 
Dang....I SO want one of these!!! Can't wait for the range report. Great explanation as to choices and parts selection. Concur on FFP.
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
So the first stumbling block has been hit. Remember I said I wanted the NF 5-25 ATAC-R? I've been researching as asking around and lo and behold I missed something critical. The 5-25 has the elevation, etc but only parallaxes down to 45 yards. The 7-35? 11 yards. Weird right? I think the bigger brother will be going on as there are 25 yard stages (targets a hair bigger than a .22 bullet) in PRS Rimfire so I may sacrifice elevation for parallax. Glad I was informed before I pulled the trigger!

And the next part arrived. A Really Right Stuff SOAR ARMS-LR ARCA/Picatinny clamp. RRS has been in the photo and video game for a good while and the SOAR line is for the shooting sports. I liked the dual clamp aspect as I have a few rifles that can't run an ARCA rail easily and this little bugger eliminates the need to swap clamps and booger up an Atlas. The 5-H is headed back to B&T for exactly that reason. The locking clamp is reversible and it is set-up so that is when the lever is in the middle position it can move freely but won't come off the ARCA so WHEN I forget to lock it :lol: it won't go flying across the COF and get me DQ'd! . Just a bauble but I like the feature set and it's made in 'Murica!
RRS soar.jpg
 
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nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
Optics reduced to possession! See "The Score" for more pics...
NF2.jpg

BTW... NightForce is sand bagging on their elevation specs! This one has 35MRADs (120.3 MOA) versus the stated 29MRAD.
 

FarmerTan

"Self appointed king of Arkoland"
Part III The Rings...
View attachment 1356650
Went with American Rifle Company M-10 rings. Love mounts like Sphur (but stupid tall and I'm not shooting a bazooka that needs that beast of a mount) and rings like the Vortex PMR but I have to take pause with the multiple screws. Don't enjoy getting the ring gap even side to side while torqueing and application of said torque seems to rotate the scope during the process. This can be overcome by installing one right completely and then tightening the other but you are either going crazy watching a level or trying to unstick a scope leveling tool (like Arisaka). The M-10s are one base bolt (55in/lbs) and one ring bolt. As they come together in the clamshell fashion there is no lifting or twisting of the scope. Again, personal preference and I like the owner and what he is doing for the sport (Check out the ARC Xylo chassis).
I'm pretty sure my lovely War Department needs a new set of "rings" for Christmas!

I'll be sure to tell her that it was YOUR idea, my friend!
 
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