I'm always on the look-out for good quality vintage suits and or jackets. I've picked up some nice Harris Tweed jackets and Crombie coats and a nice Crombie suit recently. However I've noticed that a lot of modern jackets seem to have their pockets sewn up (more specifically pocket seams of side and handkerchief pockets. Is this a modern phenomenon, or just a sign of a cheap suit? I remember seeing a rather nice Paul Smith suit and the pockets were all sewn up in the jacket. Could this have been a fake? Or is this how they are actually made now?
Vintage suits.
- Thread starter sam o'reilly
- Start date
My understanding is that the pockets are sewn shut to preserve the structure of the suit -- think about how many folks might try on the suit in the store....
It also helps keep the garment creased/straight during shipping, etc.
I've also heard that after purchasing the garment, one shouldn't open up this stitching, as it will keep one from putting all the heavy, bulky things guys tend to carry in the pockets and stress the jacket...
In some cases, there are actually "fake" pockets, but the reason for this escapes me.
It also helps keep the garment creased/straight during shipping, etc.
I've also heard that after purchasing the garment, one shouldn't open up this stitching, as it will keep one from putting all the heavy, bulky things guys tend to carry in the pockets and stress the jacket...
In some cases, there are actually "fake" pockets, but the reason for this escapes me.
It was always my understanding that the pockets were sewn shut for the shipping, etc and meant to be opened when you buy it. If you just cut one of the stitches, the thread easily comes out. The fact that the pockets are lined in silk(?) indicates it's meant to be used. Also, the two tails (?) in the back are usually also sewn together--those stitches must also be removed.
Sound like you did really well on your finds. I also buy Vintage suits, and a good tailor can fix the pocket sag and any other issues.
If your looking at a new suit and the pocket are sewn, the intent is the customer will have them opened. This comes from my father-in-law who was in the clothing business for 30 years. His point was- whats the point of having a pocket if you don't use them.
You should be able to feel through the fabric and see if there is a true pocket there, if there isn't I would stay away.
Personally, I am a fan of the pocket square-Its a great touch of class, for very little money.
If your looking at a new suit and the pocket are sewn, the intent is the customer will have them opened. This comes from my father-in-law who was in the clothing business for 30 years. His point was- whats the point of having a pocket if you don't use them.
You should be able to feel through the fabric and see if there is a true pocket there, if there isn't I would stay away.
Personally, I am a fan of the pocket square-Its a great touch of class, for very little money.
Yes to all that.
A new suit is sold with
All these things must be fixed ... usually the store where you buy the suit or your tailor will do that for you ... sometimes they don't bother with opening the pockets ... but a polite nudge should get that done for you.
I have no idea if this was done in days of yore, or if it's a new thing, but certainly not the sign of a cheap suit. If anything, I'd expect a cheap suit would be the one that the maker decides to save the twelve cents* it costs to sew the pockets shut.
* total guess on the 12 cents ...
A new suit is sold with
- the breast pocket sewn shut
- the outside side pockets sewn shut
- the maker's label sewn on the sleeve
- the vents at the side/back sewn shut (usually little thread "X"s that are rather visible)
- the pants unhemmed
All these things must be fixed ... usually the store where you buy the suit or your tailor will do that for you ... sometimes they don't bother with opening the pockets ... but a polite nudge should get that done for you.
I have no idea if this was done in days of yore, or if it's a new thing, but certainly not the sign of a cheap suit. If anything, I'd expect a cheap suit would be the one that the maker decides to save the twelve cents* it costs to sew the pockets shut.
* total guess on the 12 cents ...
sewn up pockets are a good thing, it secures the shape and prevent tampering, a small thread needs to be cut , then the pocket is free
Listen, why the pockets are sewn shut will forever remain a mystery. I NEVER open them, ever. The Italian tailor in my Bronx neighborhood explained to me when I asked him to open them on a new suit that he never opens them because then you put things in them, keys, lighter, whatever. These things will cause the area of the pocket to lose its shape usually resulting in a little out pouch and therefore ruining the look of the suit.
There you have it.
Mike
There you have it.
Mike
- Thread starter
- #8
Well, you learn something new etc. Thanks for those tips guys.
I have a recollection from somewhere that pockets have been sewn shut for a very long time. It makes since to me that they would be, to protect the suit while it is being shipped and tried on. Certainly the breast pocket stitching is meant to be removed so as to allow the insertion of a pocket square. I think my tailor would say not to put anything in the front pockets of a suit coat and that if leaving the stitching in helps one remember not to, leave them in!
I open up all pockets eventually and hate to say that I am quilty of using those front pockets from time to time.
I open up all pockets eventually and hate to say that I am quilty of using those front pockets from time to time.
I would suggest that whether or not to open the pockets will depend on your intended use of the suit. Is this your best "interview, special occasion, wedding" suit? Opening the pockets and using them will indeed change (some say "ruin") the drape of the suit - how it hangs on your body. So if this is a first-time, special occasion, for instance you'll be walking the red carpet at the opening of your new movie, leave them closed. If, however, like me, you will be wearing the suit in a variety of business situations where utility is required (where else are you going to put your car keys?) then by all means open them up and use them! Still, I would suggest moderation in what you put in those pockets. A minimal set of keys, any papers you need to have with you in the inside breast pocket, pen in the inside pocket, cell phone (in the newer jackets) in its intended inside pocket. Really, what else do you need to be carrying? (actually, don't answer - I realize there's a whole other discussion about all the various things men like to carry every day, in case of natural disasters, terrorism, rapture, zombie invasion, etc. . . . )
And I do agree with the beauty and versatility of a pocket square - in most cases, a plain white linen handkerchief is my choice; it can be handed to a lady in distress without a second thought, used to wipe off errant drops of drinks or etc., take care of a perspiring forehead . . . actually a second handkerchief is a great idea . . . . enjoy your suits, pockets or not, gentlemen.
And I do agree with the beauty and versatility of a pocket square - in most cases, a plain white linen handkerchief is my choice; it can be handed to a lady in distress without a second thought, used to wipe off errant drops of drinks or etc., take care of a perspiring forehead . . . actually a second handkerchief is a great idea . . . . enjoy your suits, pockets or not, gentlemen.
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