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Vintage Stainless Steel Razors

A second CV Heljestrand 7 day set arrived yesterday. Same items missing as the first and no mention of the Paris retailer in the lining, which is a crimson red cloth and in as new shape. Case outer leather covering is brown rather than black too. Almost equal razor condition and the razor shows the same magnetic signature so also seems to be stainless steel most likely. Blade days marked in English in this set rather than in French. Now for the version in a much smaller case with the 2 piece handle.
 
The below link, post #24 might be of interest. It shows two CV Heljestrand late model razors side by side. Identical except for color of the finish. The one on the right looks like mine and is, I believe, stainless steel. The one on the left is a warmer tone and is either Nickel plate or silver plate over brass I suspect. Looks to me like they did two different material versions of the same design razor.

C.V. Heljestrand Kindal
 
I just received my third CV Heljestrand safety razor and this one is definitely plated brass. Based on lack of darkening and plating color I presume nickel plating. Enough wear on the plating so it is clearly plated brass and it does not react at all to a magnet, unlike my other two CVH razors. Color of the metal surface is also very different to even a casual glance when the razors are placed side by side. Other than the color difference the heads are identical design, just made of different materials. Based on the evidence of having both versions I can with about 99% certainty say that CV Heljestrand did make both brass and stainless steel versions of their last wedge blade lather catcher style razor, presumably in the 1930s. This is apparently unknown to collectors and is certainly NOT mentioned in my hard copy of Waits Compendium. A genuine contribution to safety razor history I hope!

Other than thickness the case is just a little larger than a Gillette Pocket case and is designed with slots for three naked wedge blades. Outside dimensions of 113mm x 57mm x 37mm. Leather covered.
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I tried a abrasion test this morning on the surface of one of the CV Heljestrand 7 day set razors and it is NOT Plated. One contiguous material color throughout so now I am 99.9% satisfied, based on my investigation, that it is a pre WW2 stainless steel razor even though such a construction is not mentioned in Waits Compendium or any where else that I can find. Based on this thread it looks like the count of makers of stainless steel razors prior to WW2 is up to three. CV Heljestrand did both plated brass and stainless steel versions of their last lather catcher razor as I have both. Any one who wishes to see and compare them is welcome to contact me for a visit.
 
I can't add much on the magnetic discussion, but how the heck does that thing work?? Looks more like something from a 19th century surgery kit...??

Here is a photo of a late model CV Heljestrand razor with a modern Gem blade installed. In shaving the blade front face is almost parallel to the skin being shaved. Same as most Gem blade razors position when shaving.

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Yes it does take standard blades. The one that came with it is much thicker. Might have been a strop type blade. It just arrived today so I'll need to take it apart.

Cheers
John

John, I have a Watts as well, though mine sports an aluminum handle. It is a thoroughly enjoyable shave. I do find that you have to be modestly conscious of the angle, as if you get too steep, the thin modern blades can grab your skin. That's a manly-a** spring in the blade-retention knob.:a20:
 
John, I have a Watts as well, though mine sports an aluminum handle. It is a thoroughly enjoyable shave. I do find that you have to be modestly conscious of the angle, as if you get too steep, the thin modern blades can grab your skin. That's a manly-a** spring in the blade-retention knob.:a20:

Rob,

Do you use a modern blade on its own, or do you use it under the thick Watts blade?
I haven't used mine yet but I am concerned the blade will flex and grab.
I was pondering grinding the bevel off the original blade (would be nice to find a spare) and putting a modern on under it.
I might make a blade retaining plate out of some stainless stock if I have time.

The spring does seem a bit overkill.

Cheers
John
 
Rob,

Do you use a modern blade on its own, or do you use it under the thick Watts blade?
I haven't used mine yet but I am concerned the blade will flex and grab.
I was pondering grinding the bevel off the original blade (would be nice to find a spare) and putting a modern on under it.
I might make a blade retaining plate out of some stainless stock if I have time.

The spring does seem a bit overkill.

Cheers
John
Hi, John,
I haven't obtained one of the Watts' blades, so I've just used a modern DE. It does take a bit of careful fiddling, to snap the blade over the retaining cam, but once there, its a very good fit.

For removal, I use a pair of flat-nose jewelers' pliers(~$5 with the 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby or Michael's craft stores) to safely pop the blade off.

It is one of my favorite shavers.☺
 
The first post WW2 stainless steel razors I am aware of were American. These are the PAL stainless steel adjustable injector razor and the Personna injector. Both had composite handles with a top skin of stainless steel and a molded on plastic piece to add bulk to the grip. The Personna also had the plastic as part of the head while the Pal adjustable had an all stainless steel head. Personna in top photo and the Pal adjustable in the other two. The current Supply stainless steel injector razor is styled for a similar appearance to these two razors.

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I just received a fourth CV Heljestrand late model lather catcher razor and based on examination they were made in at least four versions or finishes. The latest one is a seven day cased version with strop and original instructions in French. It looks very much like the stainless steel versions but based on magnetic testing is chrome plated brass. There is also a yellow tinge to the finish in the socket in the handle for the stropping and honing blade holder, not included with the set. The finish color inside the head is also very dull or matte compared to the finish inside the head of the stainless versions. It looks like the interior surface was not polished before being plated. I now have versions in stainless steel, nickeled brass and chromed brass. I have also seen a gold colored one which I presume is gold plated brass as stainless steel does not plate well. It is very hard to get good adhesion between stainless steel and most plating.

The chrome plated brass version shows no reaction to a strong magnet, unlike the stainless steel ones. It's reaction is a much better match to the nickeled brass razor. The magnet test is the quickest way to differentiate between a chromed finish and a stainless steel version as the colors are very similar on the polished surfaces. Once seen the difference in interior head finish is also obvious.

CVH-4-1.jpg
 
Hi, John,
I haven't obtained one of the Watts' blades, so I've just used a modern DE. It does take a bit of careful fiddling, to snap the blade over the retaining cam, but once there, its a very good fit.

For removal, I use a pair of flat-nose jewelers' pliers(~$5 with the 40% off coupon at Hobby Lobby or Michael's craft stores) to safely pop the blade off.

It is one of my favorite shavers.☺

Finally took the Watt's Service razor for a spin. Had to make a retaining shim to hold the DE blade properly.
My razor also had has slightly wider posts than I thought. I had to trim the outer tabs on each side.
It's the same trim as the wide spaced Wardonia razor needs.

The shave was on the mild side but efficient. I'm going to make a .007" shim for under the blade to match original bevel blade point height.

Cheers
John


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