A Vietnamese business acquaintance recently served me a coffee she prefers with her "French coffee," as she put it. The label is Nguyen (pronounced Wynn), and it's available only at Asian markets. I like my coffee strong, memorable, yet with the softness of a velvet fist and this stuff has it in spades. If you're into authentic French coffee as any French colonial administrator or Vietnamese mandarin would have drunk it, try it with sweetened condensed milk. By itself, pressed, it's dark, rich, choclaty and sublime.