Use more pressure and a steeper angle for a better shave...

[NEPA507]

Ok so the title is a little clickbaity but here me out with the disclaimer of course being ymmv...

I have always had a problem with my lower neck and also getting some nicks and ingrown hairs here and there which I never got from a cartridge razor. I happened to have a cartridge still in the medicine cabinet so used it last week as a comparison since I hadn't shave with one in over a year now. It actually provided a great shave with a 2 pass shave including getting somewhere around dfs to bbs even on the lower neck. This morning I was curious to compare the mechanics of it since the blades are recessed into the head and also looked to be thicker and not as sharp. By all accounts I should have gotten a rougher shave with more tugging potentially.

I held the cartridge and DE side by side and matched the angle and realized that for the Lupo to maintain the same angle I had to hold the handle at quite a steep angle. Now of course this is entirely razor dependent, and some designs won't even let you cut hair at angles outside their build but luckily the Lupo affords me the flexibility to experiment outside of what people say is the optimal shaving angle. I did a single pass wtg like I normally do, then lathered again and for my lower neck threw caution to the wind and grabbed the handle steep and then used quite a lot of pressure on my lower neck and got a closer shave there than ever going agt, and absolutely no irritation. If I follow most instructions and try to use a more shallow angle and very light pressure to allow the blade to efficiently cut the hair, I always feel the tugging and get irritation and bumps and rarely achieve beyond a socially acceptable shave on my lower neck. I understand I'm probably scraping the hair away vs cutting it away, but for whatever reason my skin and hair combined with this particular razor and blade responded with the best results I've achieved to date in over a year of DE shaving.

The test will be doing this multiple times vs the "n of 1" I'm currently working off, and to see if a closer shave increases ingrown hairs and irritation over time, but I feel hopeful I have cracked part of the code in my own unique case. I do find it interesting since the cartridge I was comparing against technically has a negative blade exposure and 6 tightly packed blades vs 1 and the Lupo is a single blade with positive exposure. But I have tried the Leaf razor with 3 blades and didn't get the same results, so something else is at play here I think. My working theory is it truly is a product of how my face responds to a blade angle more than exposure or skin exposure to the blade. My hair is curly, but not necessarily as coarse as some so the scraping actions might be able to still cut my hair whereas other people will truly be just doing a skin scrape and have more hair in tact after a pass.

I accept criticism of this since it (no pun intended) seems to go against the grain of popular advice, but will continue testing with my different blade gaps and adding a larger sample size to my experience. I suppose the real message or take home is that experimenting is healthy and that everybody's body and equipment are different so there is some universal advice to get people started, but anything after that boils down to the individual.

 

[Brutus]

Do what you must.

As for me, I shave with the weight of a feather and the angle the razor was designed for.


As far as clickbait to draw me into reading the entire text goes; that didn’t work either because the number of words and the theory proposed in the title are inversely proportional to all that I learned over the (+20) years.

Try your theory with a straight razor and you’ll soon find out.



Thanks, but no thanks.


B.

 

[NorthernSoul]

You are shaving less shallow, is another way of putting it. That means you get more blade exposure, so it is easier to get a closer shave. You're also taking advantage of the guard to give a firm point of reference for the blade. You really only need enough pressure to keep the razor firmly in contact with the skin. If you can apply more without irritation, that is OK, too. Just remember that closeness does not come from adding a lot of pressure, but rather good blade exposure and shaving angle.

 

[EclipseRedRing]

I think 'no pressure' is sensible advice for those new to DE razors, especially if switching from disposables. That said, with a little DE experience it soon becomes apparent what works best for each individual. I certainly use 'controlled' pressure with a DE razor as and when I think it appropriate and I do the same with a Schick Injector or an Ever Ready SE. I am much more cautious and aware of using extremely light pressure with my Feather Artist Club DX or with a straight razor.

 

[NEPA507]

You are shaving less shallow, is another way of putting it. That means you get more blade exposure, so it is easier to get a closer shave. You're also taking advantage of the guard to give a firm point of reference for the blade. You really only need enough pressure to keep the razor firmly in contact with the skin. If you can apply more without irritation, that is OK, too. Just remember that closeness does not come from adding a lot of pressure, but rather good blade exposure and shaving angle.

This doesn't quite make sense to me just because as I tilt the razor away from my face to achieve a steeper angle, it's pulling the blade away from the face. But I can see how there might end in more exposure because it's pulling the top cap away even more if that's what you are referring to?

 

[NEPA507]

Try your theory with a straight razor and you’ll soon find out.

I'll definitely concede on that one and take your word for it! Maybe someday I'll give a straight razor a try but I'm not quite there yet

 

[AndyPanda]

Half the people on this forum think "steep angle" means lift the handle away from your face and the other half think it means pull the handle closer to your face.

What matters is to hold the razor at an angle that allows the blade to reach your whiskers - every razor is built differently and clamps the blade differently. You hold the handle at whatever angle your razor requires in order to get the blade contacting your skin/whiskers at the "proper" cutting angle.

These three different razors all bend (or don't bend - i.e. FlatBoy) the blade to different degrees. The handle must be held at a different angle in order to get the cutting edge of the blade at the same angle where it meets the skin and base of whiskers.

 

[NorthernSoul]

This doesn't quite make sense to me just because as I tilt the razor away from my face to achieve a steeper angle, it's pulling the blade away from the face. But I can see how there might end in more exposure because it's pulling the top cap away even more if that's what you are referring to?

Sort of. Probably the best way to understand is to experiment for yourself.

Most DE razors have a range of shaving angles that will cut hair. To find the most shallow angle, start with the razor cap flat on the face, then pivot down until the blade begins to cut hair. Similarly, to find the most steep angle, start with the guard perpendicular to the face and pivot up until the blade begins to cut hair. Exactly mid-way between these two extremes of shaving angle is the neutral angle.

You will find the most hair is cut at the neutral angle. Progressively less hair is cut as the angle becomes more and more shallow. Why? The reason is that less of the blade is able to reach the hair being cut. So, it makes sense that it is easiest to get a closer shave, with fewer strokes, using a neutral angle. Pressure applied can change the geometry a little bit, but it is less irritating to the skin to use only a small amount of pressure along with a shaving angle close to neutral.

Too shallow an angle tends to result in tugging and less hair being cut. Too steep an angle tends to result in more irritation and less hair being cut. So, an angle closer to neutral is more effective all around, despite current fashions for riding the cap, riding the guard, etc.

 

[musicman1951]

You should do whatever works for you. I don't shave your face or use your razor, water, maybe soap and blade.

I use a heavy razor and try to use as little pressure as possible because that's what works for me. The best way for most shavers to get irritation is to use more pressure. I also shave at a reasonably steep angle.

Everyone should experiment with just about everything. It will either improve your shave or not - you'll know very soon. Feedback is king. Do what works for you.

 

[SP120K]

Like you said it’s entirely razor dependent. I tend to use normal pressure most of the time and like to ride the cap when able to. My blackbird Ti has a locked in angle so I go with easy mode here. I see what you’re saying though with the Yates YPM with a rounded top cap I could go steeper and control the closeness. I no longer own that great razor but they have since changed to an angled top cap for easy mode.

Be careful applying pressure. If it’s working for you, then you are good with that razor! I can get away with it a little since I use a titanium razor but I still tread lightly here.

I enjoyed your thoughtful post and encourage you to do more journals for us to read!

 

[Quaznoid]

Never been a “no pressure” advocate. Pressure applied correctly is essential for a good shave.

 

[tejolot3]

If I follow most instructions and try to use a more shallow angle ...

... as I tilt the razor away from my face to achieve a steeper angle ...

Tilting the razor away from your face is using a shallower angle. Shaving angle is defined from the perspective of the blade against your skin. Because the blade is basically perpendicular to the handle, pulling the handle farther away from your skin results in a smaller angle between the blade and your skin. You're not going against popular advice: you're proving it out.

 

[Jay21]

Lifting the handle away from your face is shallow shaving, also known as riding the cap. This is where the Lupo really comes alive. I ride the crap out of the cap on all my Lupos.

 

[NEPA507]

Tilting the razor away from your face is using a shallower angle. Shaving angle is defined from the perspective of the blade against your skin. Because the blade is basically perpendicular to the handle, pulling the handle farther away from your skin results in a smaller angle between the blade and your skin. You're not going against popular advice: you're proving it out.

my syntax was off then. My frame if reference was dripping the handle more so the blade is becoming more perpendicular so my face and moving away from a parallel plane

 

[tejolot3]

So are you actually having good success with a shallower angle (moving the razor handle farther away from your face)? If so, then this in keeping with commonly given advice for avoiding irritation and ingrown hairs. Or are you indeed having good success with a steeper angle (moving the razor handle closer to your face)? If so, then this is contrary to commonly given advice and certainly interesting to hear.

IME, how much pressure to use is also determined by the brand of razor blade, not just the razor. A medium-sharpness blade in an aggressive razor can deliver a fine shave with very little pressure, but there is some risk of nicks. A quite-sharp blade in a medium-aggression razor can do likewise, but maybe needs a tiny bit more pressure. However, a medium-sharpness blade in a medium-aggression razor can only deliver a fine shave with plenty of pressure and maybe some advanced techniques (buffing and j-hooking), and the risk of irritation is very real at that point.

 

[JoWolf]

Difficult to beat single use ultra sharp blade and a Feather touch. Pun intended.

 

[ButterfaceX]

Whatever floats your boat..

or

Whatever….

• Swats your skeeter.
• Calls your loon.
• Spots your moose.
• Outruns your bear. Just kidding, nobody can outrun bears.
• Croaks your toad.
• Snaps your turtle.

Whatever….

• Pitches your tent.
• Rolls your map.
• Hangs your hammock.
• Portages your pack.
• Hangs your food pack.
• Stirs your cocoa.

Whatever….

• Paddles your canoe.
• Runs your rapids.
• Dams your creek.
• Swamps your canoe…. That one is a little disastrous.

Whatever….

• Flicks your Bic.
• Stokes your fire.
• Toasts your mallow.
• Roasts your dog.
• Strikes your match.
• Collects your kindling.
• Splits your log.
• Fuels your flame.

Whatever….

• Casts your rod.
• Filets your dinner.
• Strings your walleye.
• Hooks your pike.
• Winds your line.
• Wiggles your jig.
• Lips your bass.
• Nets your catch.
• Fries your fish.
• Steals your fish…. It’s an otter. Otters steal fish, little known fact.

I am glad you have found what works best for you!
Quest for the best...

BFX

 

[Dimitri]

Neckline has always been an issue for me as well. Even going against the grain I could never get a really smooth shave there until I discovered “J hooking.” I’m not sure why it seems to work when going ATG or XTG doesn’t, but for some reason, for me at least, it works. That with light pressure has done wonders for cleaning up that area and getting it smooth. Use caution though if you try that technique. Too much pressure and a sharp blade in that area will definitely result in a lot of nicks.