Unpin a Razor

[mycarver]

I do make my own washers or modify stock ones but in this case one of the benefits of accurate drilling is you get the washers back.
In post # 2, last pic, you can see one in the bottom if the photo .

not having a drill press you can use a pin vise. Naturally it's slower but you'll have good control and it's safe. And drilling brass or nickel isn't like drilling steel by hand. I have a couple of them.

One other suggestion is to use a magnifier. You'll get a view of the playing field equal to these close up shots and see just what you need to do and how it's going. I live with ones strapped to my head.

 

[Heespharm]

Lately I've been using a 1/16 head engraving bit on the lowest setting on my dremel.... I file it flat then make a divot with the side if the engraving bit then use the tip to freehand grind through the middle of the pin... Once I get about a 1/16 into the scale I start enlarging the hole by rotating the bit around ... Works really well and did it 3 times on ivory scales without touching the ivory

 

[mycarver]

Many things can work. There is a greater chance of a cutter like that wanting to walk, which they do. Especially at low speeds. Higher speeds lessen the risks doing it that way.
As an example of the need for speed think of the para-gravers and why they are so effective as engraving tools where accuracy is primary and the margin for error is zero.
They hit speeds up to 400,000 RPM and when you use them you just whisk away material and it offers no resistance with the ones I have tried.
My tool maxes at 40,000 but it has constant torque.

 

[Heespharm]

Many things can work. There is a greater chance of a cutter like that wanting to walk, which they do. Especially at low speeds. Higher speeds lessen the risks doing it that way.
As an example of the need for speed think of the para-gravers and why they are so effective as engraving tools where accuracy is primary and the margin for error is zero.
They hit speeds up to 400,000 RPM and when you use them you just whisk away material and it offers no resistance with the ones I have tried.
My tool maxes at 40,000 but it has constant torque.

I dunno what those are haha but they sound expensive... This way works for me with no walking ... I was getting that with drill bits but not these engraving bits... I still use heavy tape to protect the scales tho

 

[mycarver]

A bit pricier than a Dremel for example.

 

[Chaloney]

Sheesh, they make Fordham's look cheap!

 

[mycarver]

Were you looking at the turbo para gravers?
I wasnt talking about the engraving tools. I was referencing the turbos ( I don't have) and the micro motors which I favor. In one year I burned up 6 Dremels. That got old real quick.

 

[alpster]

I just repinned a Filli 14. Like Heso, I used a tiny Dremel engraving bit to make a divot. I use my 12volt Dewalt cordless drill with a 1/16th" bit. I can turn it very slowly and with a sharp bit it's like using a pin vise, only without the sore fingers.

 

[Chaloney]

Were you looking at the turbo para gravers?
I wasnt talking about the engraving tools. I was referencing the turbos ( I don't have) and the micro motors which I favor. In one year I burned up 6 Dremels. That got old real quick.

Yes, the para gravers. $500+ for the hand piece. Double that for the compressor and other goodies, just for the entry level, starter kit. The demo video looks really cool though.

 

[mycarver]

You can run them off a compressor using a regulator but they're limited in some respects. That's why I don't have one for the work I do. Maybe someday for a toy to play with. Go with a micro motor if you're looking for versatility .

i was simply using them(turbos) as an extreme example of the benefit of speed vs slow speed grinding.

In woodworking it would be like trying to use a router at a low speed vs a higher speed.

 

[Chaloney]

So I finally got around to using my drill press to remove a few sets of scales from ebay restore project razors. I didn't do the filing or dremeling a pilot hole/divot, just straight to the drill press, new bit, low speed. Had only 1/4" of the bit out of the chuck. All three were not ones I needed to keep the scales (the first two were already junk and went straight into the trash). The third I saved til last cause if I can straighten the scales I'll reuse them, but if not I'll make new ones. Had a little wandering of the bit but I was expecting it and adjusted direction by moving the razor around a little. I was able to save most of the washers (although I don't plan to reuse them, more just to see if i could). And all the scales were un damaged (by my unpinning, anyway). Thank you for posting this tutorial, mark. One of the best restoration tutorials I've read.

 

[mycarver]

Thank you Chaloney, very nice of you to report back on your success! And I'm glad it worked out well for you.
For me, since most razors aren't mine , I need to be a bit anal with the filing and making a guide mark to lessen any chance of buggering up somebody's set of scales.
Lately for all drilling I find myself using Cobalt bits. Even over the titanium coated ones. They seem to be the sharpest and cut cool and clean.

 

[Chaloney]

I totally agree. When I have some that matter (2 on their way), I will tape and file and pull out the dremel for sure. Also, professor chaos kindly added this thread to the restoration sticky, where it belongs

 

[mycarver]

Yeah. For a "lets try this and see if it works " it's fine. But when you have something special go the extra step. It takes little time. And adds a bit more insurance. Discretion is the better part of valor. A wandering bit making a second pin hole isn't something any of us need.
The Devil lies in the details. There are enough things to go wrong with a resto why add to your headaches?

And It was very nice to have this added this to the sticky's . I hope many more will find the success you have had.

 

[Hunter Bock]

Will a Dremel 109 Engraving Cutter (1/16) step 4 work?

 

[mycarver]

That looks like it should make a divot in the pin.
But to try drilling the pin through? Others said they do it but as I said I’d find it kinda’ dicey. To be steady enough to try boring into the end of a pin deep enough to release the scales and not have it walk is tricky especially if your planning on keeping the scales.

 

[Hunter Bock]

Absent a drill press the dremel is all I have. Suggestions?

Thanks mycarver.

 

[rbscebu]

I am in the similar boat as @Hunter Bock, Dremel only with most attachments, including a flexible shaft. The blade is broken beyond repair, however I would be interested in saving the scales for later use.Here is the pin I need to remove:

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The end caps are solid phosphorous bronze mounted on stainless steel as shown. There appears to be no timber under the end caps.

I was thinking of starting by using duck tape to protect the end cap and a wet & dry sanding block to reduce the slight pin protrusion before centre marking with a 1/32" ball grinder in my Dremel. Then I was going to use a 1/16" ball grinder to get the pin down to (or just below) the end cap. From there my thinking was to use a 1/16" pin punch to very gently drive the pin out.

This will be my first unpinning. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

[camoloc]

I am in the similar boat as @Hunter Bock, Dremel only with most attachments, including a flexible shaft. The blade is broken beyond repair, however I would be interested in saving the scales for later use.Here is the pin I need to remove:

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The end caps are solid phosphorous bronze mounted on stainless steel as shown. There appears to be no timber under the end caps.

I was thinking of starting by using duck tape to protect the end cap and a wet & dry sanding block to reduce the slight pin protrusion before centre marking with a 1/32" ball grinder in my Dremel. Then I was going to use a 1/16" ball grinder to get the pin down to (or just below) the end cap. From there my thinking was to use a 1/16" pin punch to very gently drive the pin out.

This will be my first unpinning. Any guidance would be appreciated.

dont see why that wouldnt work but I've only used a small drill press.

gentle is the word when pushing the pin through. I believe that during peening....the ends are flared some still even within the scales. I've accidentally popped one before trying to rush it and not understanding how fragile things are on that end.

gentle with gingerly applied taps would be my opinion.

camo

 

[mycarver]

To both, if that’s what you have then that’s what you use. I can’t suggest anything else if you don’t have that tool.
So, have at it. Carefully of course.
And I’m not a fan of trying to drive pins out. I slip a thin blade between the shaft and the scale and gently rock the inserted blade against the underside of the scale closest to the pin. This way the force is directed under and next to the pin without trying to yank the scale off or risk a wayward drift.