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Ultrasonic Cleaning??

Hi guys. Wanted to ask about ultrasonic Cleaning razors.

types you shouldn't put in one?

If there is some plating worn off is that a problem?

If an adjustable is locked up would this be as effective (or better) than boiling?

Thinking of seeing if any of the guys on a local forum that cleans their guns with one can clean one or two razors for me.
 
I use one to clean skate board bearings/wheels, carb and tool parts, knives/gun parts, jewelry, etc. I've not had to clean a razor in one yet, but expect it will do fine. I’m not aware of many specific don'ts pertaining to razor materials or cleaning product used. I do know not to get iodine near a razor, and that some essential oils in a soap once left a patina on a blade, which eventually faded. I’d avoid soaking in too strong a base or acid, too. I place smaller items into glass beakers of solution, set within the chamber of plain hot water, to reduce the amount of cleaning solution needed.
 
I use one for cleaning all sorts of stuff. Yes it will work to get into crevices like with a frozen DE razor mechanism. Works way better than boiling water.
 
I use one for cleaning all sorts of stuff. Yes it will work to get into crevices like with a frozen DE razor mechanism. Works way better than boiling water.
Thanks! I was thinking of seeing if someone near me could do it with a gentle US cleaning solution or dish liquid soap. I might could take out (or loosen) the very first part so water could run in easier.
I'm sure a good cleaning wouldn't hurt the Slim I regularly use either.

Now I just need to see if I can track someone down!
 
I use one occasionally it works well!
Nickel plated for sure

Be very careful with gold and or silver plated

Guy on a local forum has had an ultrasonic cleaner big enough to clean several pistols at once and I could send them to him. :)
 
The plan was to ask he use a mild solution or just liquid soap @Biglo13. Maybe do 1 first.
I was going to ask he use something mild. Definitely don't want to strip them.
I guess they are nickel plated and plain brass. I know none of them are gold!
 
The nickel will be fine in most cleaning solutions.
It will tolerate many of the solutions used on brass for reloading. Including a popular vinegar and water based solution used to clean reloading brass.
But hot water and a squirt of dawn will work for most cleaning jobs.
Most of the crud build up is often just years of soap

I still use brush and scrubbing bubbles and a brush which is most people’s primary way to clean most vintage DE or SE razors.
 
The nickel will be fine in most cleaning solutions.
It will tolerate many of the solutions used on brass for reloading. Including a popular vinegar and water based solution used to clean reloading brass.
But hot water and a squirt of dawn will work for most cleaning jobs.
Most of the crud build up is often just years of soap

I still use brush and scrubbing bubbles and a brush which is most people’s primary way to clean most vintage DE or SE razors.
I soaked the razor in Simple Green (what I had on hand) and gave it a good scrubbing. Outside looks a lot better but the collar still won't budge.
 
Some will need disassembling
I have yet to attempt disassembly of TTO, but there is info on that on the board.
I'm disassembling the simple razors, but leaving the adjustable together. I don't want to damage anything trying to get it back together.
 
For plain dirt removal, you can just use regular old water in the U/S cleaner. For really crusty stuff you might want to try soap or something that's known to be safe for your materials.
 
I use a medium size ultrasonic for hot bath cleaning, where I can keep the temp ~140F and run multi-hour sessions in distilled water and dawn. I also have a small jewelry size cleaner with no heater, and I use that one for real chemical solution treatments. I prefer 'Citronox' to the tune of 1-3 caps per quart of hot water for rust removal. If you have an old straight that you arent going to repin, this is a must. Remember however that after *any* high or low PH chemical soak, you must then stabilize the process afterward. An hour in warm hard PH tap water does great.
My only 'oops' so far is that the new 'Aircraft parts cleaner' from Simple green is SOOO strong (high PH!) that it will cause celluloid scales to catalyze into some nasty white crusted mess. I love my Ultrasonic cleaners, and clean tools, and even whetstones in them.
 
Even regular Simple Green will do that - especially in a heated cleaner. Do NOT under any circumstances put aluminum in a heated Simple Green bath for instance. DAMHIKT. :a13:
 
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