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Two Years In, Could Use Feedback

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
I'm told the Feather Popular is mild, should I opt for a more aggressive razor, especially since I want to be done in two passes?

Using my Fatip Grande and a Polsilver or Gillette Yellow I can shave first pass against the grain at up to 80 hours growth and likely longer. My growth is also coarse and dense and I also generally shave every 48 hours. I seldom need more than a single light clean up after the initial buffing pass for a 12 hour BBS finish.

Applying pressure is rarely a good idea, however, there is a way. I tend to use a shallow to very shallow angle with my Grande. All pressure is applied between the two green lines.

Grande.Pressure.Point.JPG


Thats the only way I can reach that angle of blade to skin. Any less pressure and the blade lifts away from my skin. The more blade exposure available, the less pressure that needs to be applied to the cap to create that angle of edge to skin. Try reaching that angle of edge to skin with your Feather Popular. You most likely wont be able to because it doesnt have enough blade exposure to make it possible. I havent used one but I know I cant with a Gillette Tech.

pressures.JPG


Applying pressure to the cap, and only the cap, is the key point. When you do that you create a wave of skin that travels in front of the blades edge. All you need to do is find your optimum angle in regards to comfort and then apply enough pressure to the cap to engage the blades edge. Applying pressure to the blade is never a good idea.

A heavier razor can help but its more about how the razor is used and controlled, technique.

A rigidly supported blade in a razor that offers generous blade exposure I've personally found key to smooth and comfortable shaves. With the right blade matched to my hairs composition I feel virtually nothing.

Taking things up a notch are the GEM SE razors. The Fatip Grande is a very smooth and very capable razor and in two years straight of single pass ATG shaves I've only used one more capable tool, the GEM MMOC. What my Grande does, my MMOC does easier and with much more authority.

I didnt record my last shave here, but it was Monday evening or night. I dont remember.

MMOC/PTFE for its 4th shave.

WK.

Maggard Synthetic.

~100 hours since last shave. I dont think it would matter if it was around 200 hours.

Single buffing pass ATG. One clean up. The MMOC is all business and this was business as usual.

Nice comfy BBS. What more could be asked for.

Neither a Fatip nor a GEM of any type will set you back much. There will, naturally, be a learning curve but once you get the hang of them, it will have been worth it.

GEM razors incidentally, are designed to be used shallow. The angle is built right into them.

IMG_2730.jpg


The basic rule of thumb is to keep the cap flat against the skin. As your technique evolves with them however, you may find that changes.
 
I am new at DE shaving, but I have definitely learned not to use pressure (except for the very little pressure where gravity can't help, such as shaving with the razor head upside-down under my jaw line) and to let the blade do the work. I have heard that the Feather Popular is very light, so perhaps you might benefit from a heavier razor? I use a Van Der Hagen (rebranded Weishi 9306) which is reportedly a very mild razor (I am ignorant on that point, as it's the only DE I have used so far) but it has been a good learning tool for me and so far gives me very good shaves. It's not an expensive razor so maybe it's something you could try? Good luck in figuring out a recipe that works best for you.
 
Maybe for your first pass you need to do real short strokes, clean the razor more often, and repeat, using longer strokes on your second pass.

Also maybe your face lathering is causing you irritation. I know if I face lather with anything but a synthetic, it causes post-shave issues.
 
Using my Fatip Grande and a Polsilver or Gillette Yellow I can shave first pass against the grain at up to 80 hours growth and likely longer. My growth is also coarse and dense and I also generally shave every 48 hours. I seldom need more than a single light clean up after the initial buffing pass for a 12 hour BBS finish.

Applying pressure is rarely a good idea, however, there is a way. I tend to use a shallow to very shallow angle with my Grande. All pressure is applied between the two green lines.

View attachment 1412822

Thats the only way I can reach that angle of blade to skin. Any less pressure and the blade lifts away from my skin. The more blade exposure available, the less pressure that needs to be applied to the cap to create that angle of edge to skin. Try reaching that angle of edge to skin with your Feather Popular. You most likely wont be able to because it doesnt have enough blade exposure to make it possible. I havent used one but I know I cant with a Gillette Tech.

View attachment 1412823

Applying pressure to the cap, and only the cap, is the key point. When you do that you create a wave of skin that travels in front of the blades edge. All you need to do is find your optimum angle in regards to comfort and then apply enough pressure to the cap to engage the blades edge. Applying pressure to the blade is never a good idea.

A heavier razor can help but its more about how the razor is used and controlled, technique.

A rigidly supported blade in a razor that offers generous blade exposure I've personally found key to smooth and comfortable shaves. With the right blade matched to my hairs composition I feel virtually nothing.

Taking things up a notch are the GEM SE razors. The Fatip Grande is a very smooth and very capable razor and in two years straight of single pass ATG shaves I've only used one more capable tool, the GEM MMOC. What my Grande does, my MMOC does easier and with much more authority.



Neither a Fatip nor a GEM of any type will set you back much. There will, naturally, be a learning curve but once you get the hang of them, it will have been worth it.

GEM razors incidentally, are designed to be used shallow. The angle is built right into them.

View attachment 1412824

The basic rule of thumb is to keep the cap flat against the skin. As your technique evolves with them however, you may find that changes.
I can recommend both of these razors to you as well. I have a light beard and sensitive skin so the Fatip OC Grande was a bit much for me but the workmate I sold it to, who shaves once a week, loves it. It mows through his beard for a close, comfortable shave. I really liked the feel and look of that razor; black, nickel plated brass. Maggards has that razor in different finishes for around $25-$32 dollars... A friend of mine gifted me a GEM Clog Pruf straight bar razor. It's a little much on my neck but gave me the closest (and comfortable) shave on my cheeks; as smooth as glass. I'll break it out again but I'm currently enjoying a Timeless .68 and going through my DE blade collection.
Good luck in your search!
 
I have a coarse beard and Proraso pre-shave cream definitely helps the razor cut my beard easier. I leave my face damp, just patting it dry after washing, then put on the pre-shave. Wet my hand in the sink and rub the pre-shave in a bit more with my wet hand, and leave it on while I get my razor and shave soap sorted out.
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
I'm like everybody else and probably have no idea exactly what will work for you.

For one thing, my whiskers don't much sound like yours. For another, I've not used the blade you're using. I use only Wizamet SI and Polsilver SI blades both of which will last me a very long time. I usually discard my blades after a week or three, but they're still going strong then (usually).

It could be you need a sharper blade.

One thing that's helped me a lot has been to figure out the whole preshave business. Getting a close and long lasting shave has long been on my agenda but the number one objective for me has been getting a Damn Comfortable Shave.

Damn Comfortable Shave.
  • Comfortable during the shave.
  • Comfortable immediately after the shave.
  • Comfortable until the next shave.
Given my skin and its propensity to becoming dry + the fact it sometimes is easily irritated and inflamed, I've tried everything or close to everything. I've finally found a combination of products and procedures which works for me.

I'll share it with you, but don't know if it's what you need or not.


SheaButter.Alone.640..png
Cube.Tube.Mysterium.Large.640.1-22JPG.JPG


Here's my preshave routine.
  1. The second step in my preshave routine begins the night before the next morning's shave. Before bed I apply a thin coating of shea butter to my face and neck. The stuff takes a long time to soak in, so applying it anytime after supper works. The cheap stuff from Walmart is great.
  2. During my preshave shower I wash my face with the Cube. I use it just like face soap.
  3. Right before lathering up I apply to my face and neck the Tube. Actually the product in the Tube is exactly the same stuff that's in the Cube, but the Tube keeps my hands from getting slick. I've used a bunch of preshave products. All have been at least a bit helpful, but the Cube/Tube is in another league. It increases the slickness and ghost lather (residual slickness) by a million miles. My shaves are very much improved using the Tube/Cube.
  4. The first step in my preshave routine is to apply to my skin immediately after drying it off with a post shave towel a little dab of Mysterium Serum. Again, I've tried many moisturizers and balms. Mysterium Serum is the best of the bunch for me.
For me, the emphasis is on comfort above everything else, but I also get very good shaves. It was not easy figuring out any part of the process. Whether any of my solutions work for others is beyond my ability to ascertain.

People will tell you the tools aren't important and technique is everything. It's sorta like money. People will tell you money isn't important. I've noticed the people telling me tools aren't important already have good tools just like the people who say money isn't important already have enough money. The right razor is important, and some razors are lousy for me although they may be great for somebody else. The right blade, too, of course. Etc.

I hope you figure this out. Everyone wants to help, but most of us are very limited.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker

Likes a fat handle in his hand
I'm like everybody else and probably have no idea exactly what will work for you.

For one thing, my whiskers don't much sound like yours. For another, I've not used the blade you're using. I use only Wizamet SI and Polsilver SI blades both of which will last me a very long time. I usually discard my blades after a week or three, but they're still going strong then (usually).

It could be you need a sharper blade.

One thing that's helped me a lot has been to figure out the whole preshave business. Getting a close and long lasting shave has long been on my agenda but the number one objective for me has been getting a Damn Comfortable Shave.

Damn Comfortable Shave.
  • Comfortable during the shave.
  • Comfortable immediately after the shave.
  • Comfortable until the next shave.
Given my skin and its propensity to becoming dry + the fact it sometimes is easily irritated and inflamed, I've tried everything or close to everything. I've finally found a combination of products and procedures which works for me.

I'll share it with you, but don't know if it's what you need or not.




Here's my preshave routine.
  1. The second step in my preshave routine begins the night before the next morning's shave. Before bed I apply a thin coating of shea butter to my face and neck. The stuff takes a long time to soak in, so applying it anytime after supper works. The cheap stuff from Walmart is great.
  2. During my preshave shower I wash my face with the Cube. I use it just like face soap.
  3. Right before lathering up I apply to my face and neck the Tube. Actually the product in the Tube is exactly the same stuff that's in the Cube, but the Tube keeps my hands from getting slick. I've used a bunch of preshave products. All have been at least a bit helpful, but the Cube/Tube is in another league. It increases the slickness and ghost lather (residual slickness) by a million miles. My shaves are very much improved using the Tube/Cube.
  4. The first step in my preshave routine is to apply to my skin immediately after drying it off with a post shave towel a little dab of Mysterium Serum. Again, I've tried many moisturizers and balms. Mysterium Serum is the best of the bunch for me.
For me, the emphasis is on comfort above everything else, but I also get very good shaves. It was not easy figuring out any part of the process. Whether any of my solutions work for others is beyond my ability to ascertain.

People will tell you the tools aren't important and technique is everything. It's sorta like money. People will tell you money isn't important. I've noticed the people telling me tools aren't important already have good tools just like the people who say money isn't important already have enough money. The right razor is important, and some razors are lousy for me although they may be great for somebody else. The right blade, too, of course. Etc.

I hope you figure this out. Everyone wants to help, but most of us are very limited.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Excellent post Jim!

I am a simple person, as such, I use simple and very little product. However, as I begin learning more from you guys, I am starting to second guess that. Now I am starting to wonder if I should use Shea Butter. I do already use a shave gel before shaving, and I use a skin lotion with vitamin E for a moisturizer after the shave. But hey, if there is something better, I am willing to try it. I do suffer from sensitive skin, so what have you found that works best? Dude, your awesome! 😁
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
Excellent post Jim!

I am a simple person, as such, I use simple and very little product. However, as I begin learning more from you guys, I am starting to second guess that. Now I am starting to wonder if I should use Shea Butter. I do already use a shave gel before shaving, and I use a skin lotion with vitamin E for a moisturizer after the shave. But hey, if there is something better, I am willing to try it. I do suffer from sensitive skin, so what have you found that works best? Dude, your awesome! 😁


SheaButter.Alone.640..png



A giant jar from Walmart.

Got the idea from marketing material on the SV website. (While drooling on their brushes no doubt.)

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker

Likes a fat handle in his hand
@Chan Eil Whiskers

Thank you so much for helping me out with this stuff. I already have soap on hand, but I chose a couple of things. Here are two more things that I have bought since joining this site.

(1)

Artisan Accoutrements Boomtown Bay Rum Star Jelly Aftershave

Boomtown Bay Rum Star Jelly Aftershave.jpg


(2)

Shea Moisture Ultra Hydration 100% Raw Shea Butter

Shea Butter Moisturizer.jpg


I am sure that I will like them both 😍
 

Chan Eil Whiskers

Fumbling about.
@Chan Eil Whiskers

Thank you so much for helping me out with this stuff. I already have soap on hand, but I chose a couple of things. Here are two more things that I have bought since joining this site.

(1)

Artisan Accoutrements Boomtown Bay Rum Star Jelly Aftershave

View attachment 1423338

(2)

Shea Moisture Ultra Hydration 100% Raw Shea Butter

View attachment 1423344

I am sure that I will like them both 😍


I've not tried any of the star jelly aftershaves. Boomtown Bay Rum is a scent I like. It's new to me, but easy to get used to.

It's a pleasure to help.

Happy shaves,

Jim
 

Rosseforp

I think this fits, Gents
Razor: Feather Popular
Blades: Persona X Series
Soap: Arko
Brush: Cheap Omega Boar
First off, Welcome to B&B again, we are glad to have you back. Check with a Moderator like @Esox to see about restoring your old account.

I have a Feather Popular, in fact, it was my first DE razor when I took up wet shaving 3 years ago. And yep, that Feather blade sure cut me up, so I switched to Astra SP blades and had much better results.( I like Feather blades now, and hate the Astra SP blades.) So go figure, try a Feather blade again.
The Feather Popular is also one of the mildest razors on the market, no wonder it stops dead in it's tracks when it gets to your chin.

I think you need to upgrade your razor, and would recommend either a Fatip, Merkur OC, or a Mühle R41, but they are all three-piece razors, but Van Der Hagen makes a butterfly razor that is quite popular.
I don't have any experience with Parker, but I know they have a full line of modern TTO razors, and get some pretty nice reviews.
The Gem razor that @Esox recommends would really fit the bill too, and it is TTO!

There tons and tons of blades to choose from, I haven't heard much about Persona X Series blades, but Persona Red and Persona Platinum blades get a lot of talk around here. Wizamet SI blades are really good also. Try a blade sampler.

Cheap Omega boars are pretty good when properly soaked, as you just found out, and Arko, well we have Arko August around here for reason!
20220314_234333[1].jpg
These are my non-Gillette TTO razors, my Feather Popular on the bottom( I shortened the handle and filed off the blade tabs), the middle is a Gem Bullet Tip, and the top is a Gem Micromatic in order of aggressiveness.

Happy shaves
doug
 
The Van Der Hagen is a Weishi rebrand and is a mild razor that is a very accurate clone of the 1960s era Gillette Super Speed. It was my first DE razor so I am kind of fond of it. It might not be more aggressive then the Feather Popular but I think it's heavier.
 
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